1970 Turbo GTO
The engine came without a harness. To my knowledge the only Gen4 LS to run a 4L80e without VVT would have been a 4.8 Chevy Express -- would this be the best OEM PCM/TCM/harness to grab if I can find one?
What 4L80e dipstick/tube fits the A-body chassis?
I've noticed that most guys on here are shooting for max hp builds and running 9-second quarters. I'm more into mountain road twisties and a fun street car, this is a restomod with full interior, AC, power steering, etc. Will probably hit the track once and get booted for no rollbar. Probably I could make 600hp naturally aspirated, but I loved the 2500-6000rpm midrange power of a Grand National and would like to build something similar.
With this in mind, what are some suggestions for a cam, converter, & turbo? Currently I'm thinking Triple 12, 3000 stall, & 70-76mm. Also, in case I run out of time/money for the turbo setup, what would be a fun cam to run for a season and then turbo next winter without changing it?
And finally, is intercooling necessary at this power level or not?
As far as a Converter goes, give Circle D or someone similar a call. A TransGo HD2 Shift kit and a good converter and you should be good at your stated power goal. Aeromotive has return style gas tanks for Chevelles if you go that route with your build although the pump is small for your goals.
Do a search for GTO within this section as there are a few people who have LS swapped these cars with success and the answers you seek may be in their threads. Good luck!
From the photos, it looks like a very nice A-body. Lokar makes a couple of options for the 4l80e.
I'd leave it here, when you get ready for the turbo you can post up over there.
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I'd like to also toss out that summit has ls cams too and seem to be pretty decent power wise. There should be a couple of threads about them on here.
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I'd like to also toss out that summit has ls cams too and seem to be pretty decent power wise. There should be a couple of threads about them on here.
I'd like to also toss out that summit has ls cams too and seem to be pretty decent power wise. There should be a couple of threads about them on here.
Looking seriously at that Summit turbo cam, or else the Trackmax/Sloppy Stage 2 turbo cam.
At any rate, we'd recommend the Summit Pro LS Stage 2 turbo cam SUM-8706. It makes great power with our without a turbo. The intake lobe and the valve events are identical to our N/A cam SUM-8707. The exhaust opening point is identical too. The only event that changes is pulling the exhaust closing point back from 3 atdc to 2 degrees btdc. This change reduces overlap 5 degrees. Exhaust closing is the least critical of the 4 events naturally aspirated....so it's a little down from the N/A cam, but not much and you won't miss it because everything else is optimized. It's going to match the converter and the weight of the car and the lobes are stable to over 7k rpm with a TFS-16918-16 .600 lift beehive. If you want to swap to a Dorman LS2 intake, you could run GTO "valve covers" for the cool factor. Finally, we have guys running bottom 9's already with boost...so it's more than capable later on as you develop the car. Let us know any questions you may have, but the cam will make you happy. Last edited by Summitracing; Oct 10, 2019 at 09:35 AM.
if you goal is only in the 650hp range, a 6l80 is also an option had good luck with mine around that power level for a year and a half/40k miles
I'm pretty specific that I don't want to lose bottom end power for squirting out of the corners, waiting for boost to hit. Maybe a 72mm turbo would work better than a 76? And even possibly the Ghost Cam over the Stage 2?
Last edited by Blacksix; Oct 10, 2019 at 10:49 PM.
Besides being $20 cheaper (
I'm pretty specific that I don't want to lose bottom end power for squirting out of the corners, waiting for boost to hit. Maybe a 72mm turbo would work better than a 76? And even possibly the Ghost Cam over the Stage 2?
The .050 timing numbers for the SS2 are 6 I/O, 42 I/C, 51 E/O, and -1 ec for a total of 5 degrees overlap. The SUM-8706 events are 4 I/O (slightly smoother idle quality), 42 I/C (effectively the same as the SS2 at that point *only), 52 E/O (slightly better spool), and -2 E/C for a net of 2 degrees of overlap. Mostly what you are seeing with the SUM-8706 is more area under the curve without causing valvetrain instability. The next thing is the lower overlap reduces reversion as turbine inlet pressure rises. This reduces heat build up in the cylinder that can take out rings and pistons...and generally makes more power because you're pulling fresh air/fuel in rather than trying to burn exhausted air.
Stage 1 Ghost cam is a good choice as well with a intake closing point of 43 degrees and -3 overlap...it would have bit smoother idle and still haul the mail. Here's a video on it if you would like to learn more
Besides being $20 cheaper (
I'm pretty specific that I don't want to lose bottom end power for squirting out of the corners, waiting for boost to hit. Maybe a 72mm turbo would work better than a 76? And even possibly the Ghost Cam over the Stage 2?
My vote is for the ghost cam. I'm partial to it because i have one and like it. My car drives like stock and has good bottom end tq. I have a set of GTO intake covers I'll sell if you decide you want some.
As for GTO builds, check out mine and also Tom's 70 GTO build. They are built as almost twins.
I also strongly recommend the Holley swap components (Tom's car was used as the development vehicle). Holley also makes a simple single turbo cast log kit that will fit A-bodies very well and will be perfect for the power level that you're after. The turbo placement will be similar to a GN, so you should feel right at home.
Andrew
Ideally I'd like to pick a turbo that will spool a little at that rpm so I don't need to downshift. Either that, or I need to buck up to a 6.2 to suit the personality of the car. Hard to decide .... but a turbo should be cheaper and power potential unlimited. Still sticking with Plan A for now ...












