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I really hope you’re not actually going to use that X pipe in your exhaust, that’s not how this works. You have the exhaust from each bank running head-on into each other. The streams are supposed to blend at very shallow angles - ideally zero. This is like 135.
I agree 100% with you SwapStang. Gtxracer has done an awesome job on this swap and I am now looking for a candidate to swap. I just recently completed an LS Swap into my 1969 Chevy truck and really enjoy it. If you decide not to pursue one or either of the cars you've located let me know, I'd be interested. What is everyone's opinion on this swap as to is it better to get a "Kit" from one vendor or pick and choose among the various vendors? I have read through this thread several times and will be keeping my eye out for a donor. I've considered buying a salvage flood car. I know the possible electrical Gremlins but if it's not been totally submerged and it's a fresh water flood I think it might be worth the gamble. Any thoughts?
20315300]This is a swap I've been looking into for a LONG time now. Really want a unique platform and making the enthusiasts upset would be well worth it. How are you finding the gear ratios for the LS1 motor? Are they pretty decent? I did some quick math and on a stock 996.1 I thought 6th gear would be aroud 2700-2800 ish at 70mph. That sound about right? I have to admit that's about the only thing really making me hesitate on this right now. It's winter in New England and I've found 2 of these at a pretty good deal. Both 996.1 one is a C4 one is RWD. If you could weigh in on either of those choices I'd appreciate that too. I hear a lot of people ditch the front axle anyways. Thanks and the car looks awesome!
Thank you! As for gear ratios, first gear is low. A few guys have swapped to a higher ratio ring and pinion in the trans. About a $3k upgrade if you pull the trans yourself and have a shop use their 100+ ton press to help install the bearings and gears. 1st gear is not suited for launches anyway, so 2nd gear would be better to use with stock gearing if you plan to abuse the trans. This is all wisdom I picked up from fellow P car enthusiasts that know more than me about the g96 transaxle. 2800ish RPM sounds right, tire size will make that number fluctuate. Once I have it on the freeway I'll let you know for sure. I think for you, the AWD C4S would be a better option due to your location. You can always disable the front diff, lots of guys do that. I like the wide body of the C4S a bit more than the C2 but the narrow body is growing on me. Thanks again.
Originally Posted by Sacrilege;[url=tel:20315498
20315498]I really hope you’re not actually going to use that X pipe in your exhaust, that’s not how this works. You have the exhaust from each bank running head-on into each other. The streams are supposed to blend at very shallow angles - ideally zero. This is like 135.
That was just a design idea I was toying with in the beginning. Look at the date on that post and the pictures of the actual exhaust, it looks nothing like that. Thanks for the tech insight on crossovers.
Originally Posted by Plumber452
I agree 100% with you SwapStang. Gtxracer has done an awesome job on this swap and I am now looking for a candidate to swap. I just recently completed an LS Swap into my 1969 Chevy truck and really enjoy it. If you decide not to pursue one or either of the cars you've located let me know, I'd be interested. What is everyone's opinion on this swap as to is it better to get a "Kit" from one vendor or pick and choose among the various vendors? I have read through this thread several times and will be keeping my eye out for a donor. I've considered buying a salvage flood car. I know the possible electrical Gremlins but if it's not been totally submerged and it's a fresh water flood I think it might be worth the gamble. Any thoughts?
Thank you! Don't go with Renegade Hybrids. Their kit is awful, parts don't fit quite right, they use Kennedy Engineering adapters, and Prius power steering conversion.
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Links to said vendors:
Use Kennedy Engineering for adapters, clutch, etc. Stay away from Chavis Performance Engineering, they’re essentially an east coast Renegade Hybrids.
Thanks for the info because I was leaning towards the Renegade "Kit". I am planning on running a standalone engine management system and I'm thinking of the early 996 because if I'm not mistaken they do not run a Canbus system like later models making them a little simpler to modify. Now if I can find a donor for the right $$$$
Thanks for the info because I was leaning towards the Renegade "Kit". I am planning on running a standalone engine management system and I'm thinking of the early 996 because if I'm not mistaken they do not run a Canbus system like later models making them a little simpler to modify. Now if I can find a donor for the right $$$$
The Renegade Kit is garbage, pass on it completely. You will HATE that kit. Buy the Kennedy Engineering adapter and spec clutch.
The Renegade Kit is garbage, pass on it completely. You will HATE that kit. Talk to Tyler at Chavis Performance Engineering and also join the Swapped Porsche Facebook group. You'll thank me later
This was the info I was really looking for. I wish you had a little more info about some highway driving but I just looked at a 996.1 C4 tonight. It's not a C4S I wish it was but I'm really leaning toward picking up this C4. It has been sitting for a little a while with the motor and trans already out of it. I'm hoping I can get it for the right price. Plan is just a 4.8 with a set of twin turbos. I figure a 4.8 because it'll live a little higher in the rev range which should work out well. I have a 6.0 on a stand but that'll get recycled into another project and I'll sell all off my 2 mustangs whole or parted out. I was leaning toward the stuggart stuff it looked like pretty nice quality and using an LS3 starter really sold me on it. Did you go with the SPEC clutch from them? Thanks again, and I'll probably be picking your brain quite a bit if I end up doing this project!
This was the info I was really looking for. I wish you had a little more info about some highway driving but I just looked at a 996.1 C4 tonight. It's not a C4S I wish it was but I'm really leaning toward picking up this C4. It has been sitting for a little a while with the motor and trans already out of it. I'm hoping I can get it for the right price. Plan is just a 4.8 with a set of twin turbos. I figure a 4.8 because it'll live a little higher in the rev range which should work out well. I have a 6.0 on a stand but that'll get recycled into another project and I'll sell all off my 2 mustangs whole or parted out. I was leaning toward the stuggart stuff it looked like pretty nice quality and using an LS3 starter really sold me on it. Did you go with the SPEC clutch from them? Thanks again, and I'll probably be picking your brain quite a bit if I end up doing this project!
Yeah, that C4 will have the narrow body just like a C2, and you can remove or disable the AWD system if you want. Some people pay good money for the AWD conversion parts, so might be a good investment that you can part out later. I like the 4.8 motors, especially with a balanced rotating assembly, spin it to 7500rpm or more if you're brave. I went with a SPEC 3+ clutch, been good so far. Feel free to ask me anything. Good luck!
Yeah, that C4 will have the narrow body just like a C2, and you can remove or disable the AWD system if you want. Some people pay good money for the AWD conversion parts, so might be a good investment that you can part out later. I like the 4.8 motors, especially with a balanced rotating assembly, spin it to 7500rpm or more if you're brave. I went with a SPEC 3+ clutch, been good so far. Feel free to ask me anything. Good luck!
4.8 is the plan, although I have to admit I'm having a hard time finding one around at this moment. That SPEC 3+ was the one i was looking at as well, says it's good to 700ft lbs I believe. I don't think I would be anywhere near that not to mention these gearboxes probably give out long before that. Definitely can't wait for some feedback on the driving experience on and off the highway.
Car put down 393 rwhp on the dyno a couple weeks ago! I'm very happy with that. What I'm not happy about - a rod knock. This poor little LS1 was consuming oil and I didn't know it. The dipstick was still reading "full" due to an error on the level. I'll get all this wrapped up and have a "new" LS1 on the way. I also have two brand new fans and resistors to toss in as well. Hopefully I'll have a new budget soon for the interior improvements. Looking at a new steering wheel, seats, and GT3 console delete + stereo. I might update the mufflers too, I want to play around with the Borla XR1 series. All of this should make the car a comfy daily driver in the end.
Still want to figure out which converter box to use for 24x to 58x crank signal to run the tach. Any suggestions here?
I used the universal tach adapter from ebay .Works fine once you figure out what settings to use .As a reference the tach is spot on to the ecm readings .
I used the universal tach adapter from ebay .Works fine once you figure out what settings to use .As a reference the tach is spot on to the ecm readings .
Does anyone have a solution for the slow blinking low coolant light? I have a 996.1 My sensor and reservoir is good. The light will also flash if the engine compartment heat gets too high and provides the signal to turn on the engine compartment fan which I have removed a long time ago. I've removed this sensor and put a 2.5k Ohm resistor in the circuit. I'm not sure if that is the correct resistance needed.
I think 2 ways light is turned on -low coolant level or dme turns on .Don't know what the resistor is supposed to accomplish .Disconnect the dme wire and should be ok .
Yeah I just unplugged the sensor and it went away. I’m trying to diagnose it and use the sensor because I’d like to know if the coolant is low. I also want the engine bay fans to kick on. I removed the OEM engine bay fan for space reasons and installed two Spal fans in place.
Does anyone have a solution for the slow blinking low coolant light? I have a 996.1 My sensor and reservoir is good. The light will also flash if the engine compartment heat gets too high and provides the signal to turn on the engine compartment fan which I have removed a long time ago. I've removed this sensor and put a 2.5k Ohm resistor in the circuit. I'm not sure if that is the correct resistance needed.
In my 2000 C4 I ran my DME in parallel with my GM PCM so my coolant sensor is hooked up as if it were the original Pcar motor. Same with my coolant reservoir AND my temperature sensor for engine bay and I have no issues with the coolant gauge indicating anything other than temp. The underhood fan is also removed. Is your DME installed still?
20483178[/url]]In my 2000 C4 I ran my DME in parallel with my GM PCM so my coolant sensor is hooked up as if it were the original Pcar motor. Same with my coolant reservoir AND my temperature sensor for engine bay and I have no issues with the coolant gauge indicating anything other than temp. The underhood fan is also removed. Is your DME installed still?
Yeah I did the same and it works well.
Separate issue: The oil pressure is always at 50+ from the Porsche sensor. Key on, engine off, oil pressure on dash says 50+. I put in a new sensor and even tried swapping the wires. No change. Very odd. Anyone else see this?
Separate issue: The oil pressure is always at 50+ from the Porsche sensor. Key on, engine off, oil pressure on dash says 50+. I put in a new sensor and even tried swapping the wires. No change. Very odd. Anyone else see this?
I haven't seen this at all. My oil pressure appears to be spot on to what the GM pcm indicates. Does it indicate 0 with everything unhooked? Maybe a bad ground in the harness after you thinned it out?
12-27-2020, 03:25 AM
I think for you, the AWD C4S would be a better option due to your location. You can always disable the front diff, lots of guys do that. I like the wide body of the C4S a bit more than the C2 but the narrow body is growing on me. Thanks again.
