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For the guys who work with the iron 5.3s, when do they typically need a boring? I have an 2000 5.3 with about 155k, was running. Had a few low cylinders, likely from bad injectors. Engine was clean etc. I am un able to check the bore for wear. Wanted opinions on putting new std GM flat tops and rings, crank would be polished or cut. I feel confident with new cam bearing, hone, bottom end and new pistons, this thing might just run another 100k with no issues. Not boosting or going past 400HP.
Not unusual to go 300k miles before any major work is even on the horizon.
Do a compression test. If any bad holes, it might be rings and/or valves.
Check everything out before deciding it's shot.
^^ Thanks! That's basically what I keep hearing, the number 7 was low and came up w oil in cylinder. Pretty sure the rings went south from leaking injector, all looks good ( minus actual bore mic). Pretty sure I will get block tanked, new cam bearing, have shop ridge and hone it up. Crank too. Heads will be fully gone over.
if it has a ridge at the top of the cylinder, enough make it hard for the piston to come out or catch your nail on, its needs to be bored. No ridge, hone it, new rings.
397000 mile ex Suburban engine...pulled the heads, ground the valves and seats, installed a used LS6/ZO6 cam. NEVER touched the bottom end. Buttoned it back up, put it in my wagon and sent it...
397000 mile ex Suburban engine...pulled the heads, ground the valves and seats, installed a used LS6/ZO6 cam. NEVER touched the bottom end. Buttoned it back up, put it in my wagon and sent it...
That was 2013.
I was wondering how long it took to wear the crosshatch marks from the bores. I have looked at some with a little over 300,000 that still had them. Guess the rings finally seat at near 400k miles, lol.
If the cylinders are not out of round.... light hone, new rings, keep the same bearings if they look good and put it back together with the rings properly file fitted. Machine work and new pistons/balancing is what costs $.
I was wondering how long it took to wear the crosshatch marks from the bores. I have looked at some with a little over 300,000 that still had them. Guess the rings finally seat at near 400k miles, lol.
LOL. I pulled a 305 apart at 300K that still had crosshatch. Pulled a 350 apart at 825K that still had crosshatch. You can thank port fuel injection, modern oils and low tension rings for the bore life.
Would like feedback, was home last week and tore it down. Some of the cylinders look like rings were stuck or some water got in? Was a running engine a few months prior to me getting it. Anyone think this is usable? I feel like it needs .75mm over to be safe. I did ball hone the cylinders as they were glazed pretty good, I could just barley see some cross hatching under it.
Last edited by LS CHEVY II; Jan 2, 2020 at 10:27 AM.
There is crosshatch ALL THE WAY to the top of the holes. Run it.
I added that I did hone the cylinders, that's not factory. Still thinking the same thing? I agree its minimal and the cylinders should catch most of the oil pre burn.
I added that I did hone the cylinders, that's not factory. Still thinking the same thing? I agree its minimal and the cylinders should catch most of the oil pre burn.
Can you feel any of the spots by hand? If not, ignore the stains and run it.
Can you feel any of the spots by hand? If not, ignore the stains and run it.
Yeah, a little bit. Almost seemed like a few cylinders had tiny pocket holes. I believe the pictured cylinder had a small wavy feeling near the staining.
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When to punch a 5.3 
