I'm jumping into this Ls stuff with both feet and need some help and guidance.

I am installing an Ls3/ 6 Speed combo into a 68 Prostreet Camaro. I bought a complete salvaged 2011 Camaro SS and I'm wanting to utilize as much of the 2011's electronics as possible but not get too carried away. I've been lurking around Cryptonomads build thread and sent him a private message but I believe he vanished from the forum once he completed his build. I've removed both entire wiring harnesses (front and rear) from the 2011 and have them temporarily installed in the 68. These harnesses have probably about 100 plug connectors which I've somewhat identified and marked. I finally realized I need to reach out for guidance when I stumbled across the "Electrical Fuel Regulator" box located behind the rear passenger seat panel. The fuel tank/pump has 14 wires going to it and are associated with this regulator box. Certainly some of these can be omitted. The first thing everyone says is to buy a "PAINLESS" or other aftermarket harness and be done. We'll if I do that, I don't think I will be able to use some of the other electrical devises I'd like to use. The only things I would really like to use from the 2011 are:

Naturally Motor and 6 speed

Steering column (for cruise and stereo etc on wheel) I already have it mounted in the car

Gauge Clusters (both speedo/Tach in dash and oil pressure temp volt on console) Dash cluster fits perfect.

Stereo

TBW

MAYBE Heat and AC but not a must

MAYBE traction control but not a must

I currently have the complete service manual (4 books worth) for the 2011 so hopefully it will help me get through this.

Any insight, thoughts, guidance, suggestions, recommendations, ideas and even constructive criticism will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Appling

 

It's gonna be much simpler to keep a standard 12 or 14 circuit universal harness in the car and run the engine harness as a standalone. The fuel module can be tuned out and a return system used I'm pretty sure, but what I do know for sure is that if you use the entire harness, a few people over an internet forum is not what you'll need to get it functional. Some very high skilled people can pull that type deal off, but there's no reason to unless you're trying to use the traction control/abs or airbags or something and I don't think you wanna go down that road.. Aside from skill, you better bring a hell of a budget as well..

 

headsup9550-Thanks for the response

I guess I had the crazy illusion that since I had the complete donor car, I could remove everything from it and just add to the 67. Thinking the system wouldn't care where it was as long as it was all together. Well the more I read, the more I understand how complex these new vehicles are. Now I'm thinking with sooo many sensors, something as simple as the open door circuit being open could prevent the engine from starting (just using this as an example). I've seen a few companies offer gauge packages to go with their harnesses but I'd really like to utilize the steering column so I can have the "on the wheel" features (cruise, stereo, etc). I guess thats really my next hurdle if I abandon the "Whole factory harness" idea. The input I was initially looking for is, what key items need attention or are necessary for this setup to turn the engine over? Does the accelerator pedal need to be hooked up? Does the clutch pedal switch have to be made up? Does the "Door Open Switch" need to be made up. Things like this. I was thinking that any of those items could be jumped across to trick the system into thinking the switches were made up.

I've seen that there are many very intelligent individuals with a ton of knowledge on this forum so thats why I'm reaching out. Also Cryptonomad tackled this exact project and made it look pretty simple. But then I've read some other topics and it sounds as if these things are as complex as a dang space shuttle. I'm just hoping to get some insight. I have a very good friend whose made the conversion in a Chevelle but he just used the bare essentials of a stand alone harness. If thats the route I end up having to take then I guess I will. I'm just not wanting to give up that easy.

So what direction would you go with all being said?

Thanks Again

 

Since he has the complete donor car is doesn't take a hell of a budget only attention to detail and skill when removing everything from one vehicle and putting it in another. It's a long process and takes quite a bit of fabrication and electrical skill and not everyone is cutout for the complex wiring involved.
The easy way out would be go with a Holley system and install one of their digital dashes but you will be giving up cruise control.
It can be installed in a day or two and the learning curve isn't that steep as long as you have basic tuning skills.

 

LLLosingit- Thanks for the input. Thats exactly what I was thinking and had planned. I've been very careful when removing the harness and marking the plugs the best I could. I've gone as fas as to buy the complete service manual for the 2011. If I had the time I could read all four of those manuals and figure all this out on my own but I feel certain someone on here could give me the quick version.

This car essentially has 3 harnesses. The front engine, the front interior(steering column, gauge cluster, Clutch switch, TBW etc...) and the rear interior (power seats, fuel regulator module, fuel pump, side air bags, rear lights etc...). The rear is more complex than the other two. As mentioned above, I ended up finding a main fuse box tucked away in the very rear of the truck compartment.

I'm always up for a challenge and have decent amount of 12v electrical experience but this CAN Bus stuff is a whole different world. I'm not opposed to spending money and not trying to go the cheap route, I'd just rather not have to invest in a bunch if assessors I already have such as a Holly system or Dakota Digital gauges. Also, I made sure this donor car started and ran before disassembling. I just need to know what are the essentials to do what I'm envisioning.

 

​​​​Yeah ok buddy... Every single post you've ever posted is your dumbass trying to correct other people's posts and you NEVER know what tf you're talking about! You have big tall tales about what you know and have done and you get called out constantly but you're too sick to realize you're psychologically ill. Stop talking about stuff that you know nothing about!! You are wrong in this instance just like the rest, now go yell at your parents some more..

 

Oh I hit a nerve, Sorry....I'll give you a moment to get your panties out of your lady crack...………………………………………..Feel better now?

 

I know exactly what you mean, I had access to a brand new 2017 that was a theft recovery with only 300 miles, My original plan was to pull everything and reuse it on a 1950 Chevy truck, I spent several hours working on harnesses and realized that integrating all the body sensors alone would take weeks, Some of them are easy to overcome, Rear door/trunk/rear seatbelt sensors would not be installed but would be left hooked up in the closed position so they essentially be eliminated. Front door sensors would have to be installed. I was going to use the new fuel tank so all sensors would still function and the engine would work the same way. It's a daunting task for sure and in the end it wasn't worth it to me since it was going to be a daily driver not a show truck.