63 Skylark Vert Pops my cherry
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Springfield Mo
63 Skylark Vert Pops my cherry Hi,
First time, not first rodeo. Thread is a way to keep track and to get advice... mostly the last part...
This 63 lark vert started as an OMG new baby buy. The motor turned over, but ended up being no good so... it sits until I contemplate the meaning of life and manage to sleep through the night.
My Cousin Vinny?
So I manned up and cut a massive hole in the bottom and then put some type of armadillo / stealth fighter back in it's place.. That was fun. LS1 from a 2002 (supposedly) F-Body sits with transmission.
Next step is to figure out how it all sort of starts to go back together.
The car is uni-body with the "Frame" rails 29 inches apart. The front subframe mounts on 3 bolts.
The track width is 56". I've read that the mustang was sort of built to copy this car.
With the motor in the car now the transmission pan and oil pan are right at the same level as the "frame."
There are significant conflicts with the RB steering and the exhaust. Also with the lower steering link and the F-Body pan. Complicating things, this car really doesn't have parts available. I suppose there are ways to get tie-rods and ball-joints. Basically all the front needs reconditioned or rebuilt for me to want to move forward.
I figure the biggest question at this point is "Should I try to make the OEM front suspension work or start over?" I'm not sure which is more work at this point.
Exhaust is the next question, but that sort of follows from the start over or not question I think.
Thanks,
Matt
First time, not first rodeo. Thread is a way to keep track and to get advice... mostly the last part...
This 63 lark vert started as an OMG new baby buy. The motor turned over, but ended up being no good so... it sits until I contemplate the meaning of life and manage to sleep through the night.
My Cousin Vinny?
So I manned up and cut a massive hole in the bottom and then put some type of armadillo / stealth fighter back in it's place.. That was fun. LS1 from a 2002 (supposedly) F-Body sits with transmission.
Next step is to figure out how it all sort of starts to go back together.
The car is uni-body with the "Frame" rails 29 inches apart. The front subframe mounts on 3 bolts.
The track width is 56". I've read that the mustang was sort of built to copy this car.
With the motor in the car now the transmission pan and oil pan are right at the same level as the "frame."
There are significant conflicts with the RB steering and the exhaust. Also with the lower steering link and the F-Body pan. Complicating things, this car really doesn't have parts available. I suppose there are ways to get tie-rods and ball-joints. Basically all the front needs reconditioned or rebuilt for me to want to move forward.
I figure the biggest question at this point is "Should I try to make the OEM front suspension work or start over?" I'm not sure which is more work at this point.
Exhaust is the next question, but that sort of follows from the start over or not question I think.
Thanks,
Matt
Yeah there's not a lot of parts support for the early Larks. Seeing as it's a rear steer car I would look to see what some of the first gen f- body guys are using for oil pans and headers. I dont know if its necessary but I know Canton makes a front sump oil pan for the LS. Is the Lark a rear transaxle car too like the Tempest was in 63? I see a lot of custom work in your future. Have fun with it and post LOTS of pics along the way!
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Springfield Mo
The car had a single speed transmission with a two speed torque converter in the standard position. But I’ll need a new rear axle to be able to hold together while I’m backing the car out of the drive the first time. New brakes bearings etc.
Front: Car is drum in front and I’m leaning hard to a custom Mustang II to get more room/remove the RB and link conflicts.
its basically up to someone here to talk me out of it.
Front: Car is drum in front and I’m leaning hard to a custom Mustang II to get more room/remove the RB and link conflicts.
its basically up to someone here to talk me out of it.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,303
Likes: 3,619
From: Central Cal.
Oooohh NO! LOL You get to be subjected to the same pains, pleasures, and tortures everyone else does. We don't play favorites......
Welcome to the Society! Besides, we both know you REALLY don't wanna bail on this one....
BTW, My Cousin Vinny is one of my all time favorite movies. Green Skylarks FTW!
Welcome to the Society! Besides, we both know you REALLY don't wanna bail on this one....
BTW, My Cousin Vinny is one of my all time favorite movies. Green Skylarks FTW!
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
From: South Carolina
You're right. did some huntin and talked with AACA contacts. Unless you join a club for those Buick Special/Skylarks and one of the members has a stash of NOS stuff, you're kinda out of luck (unless actually talking with Kanter Auto Parts direct at 973-334-9575 or 800-526-1096 reveals something). I second the MII suspension kit, lots of parts avalable and kits to set the Skylark up to handle like you want. Also the all aluminum LS engine will make the MII suspension happy being lighter. Talk with the various MII manufacturers and see who will work best with you. Your fun is about to begin!
Last edited by BigBlockLover454; May 18, 2020 at 01:06 PM. Reason: spelling
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Launching!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 199
Likes: 20
S10, blazer, are both on that front track width range. Consider a partial front clip, retaining the front end of the rails for radiator support etc, cutting out and replacing the suspension and engine cradle steering.
mustang 2 bolt in would be more straightforward swap.
mustang 2 bolt in would be more straightforward swap.