GM Type 2 pump- Tbird rack?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 54
Likes: 5
GM Type 2 pump- Tbird rack? Hi I have a 64 nova that ive done an ls1 swap into and am trying to sort out the power steering connection. This is my first build so forgive me for ignorance. Have been searching the last couple days and even tried to install the speedway kit which goes to saginaw type 1 PS pump. I have the Holley mid mount race accesory kit so its a GM type 2 but im sort of getting lost in how to connect it to my T Bird PS rack on my heidts mustang 2 front end. What route do i need to go? PSI reducer? Thanks
https://www.turnone-steering.com/blo...him-kit-theory
Don't worry about reducing PSI --- set it up and drive it. If it feels twitchy/over-boosted, use one of these ( https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60791/10002/-1 ) to reduce the flow. I run a GM type 2 on my LS3 and it powers the Volvo ZF rack just fine from a pressure perspective. I used one of the flow control valves to reduce flow and the steering in the car has never felt better - great feel, not over-boosted.
Don't worry about reducing PSI --- set it up and drive it. If it feels twitchy/over-boosted, use one of these ( https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60791/10002/-1 ) to reduce the flow. I run a GM type 2 on my LS3 and it powers the Volvo ZF rack just fine from a pressure perspective. I used one of the flow control valves to reduce flow and the steering in the car has never felt better - great feel, not over-boosted.
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Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Central Cal.
https://www.turnone-steering.com/blo...him-kit-theory
Don't worry about reducing PSI --- set it up and drive it. If it feels twitchy/over-boosted, use one of these ( https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60791/10002/-1 ) to reduce the flow. I run a GM type 2 on my LS3 and it powers the Volvo ZF rack just fine from a pressure perspective. I used one of the flow control valves to reduce flow and the steering in the car has never felt better - great feel, not over-boosted.
Don't worry about reducing PSI --- set it up and drive it. If it feels twitchy/over-boosted, use one of these ( https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60791/10002/-1 ) to reduce the flow. I run a GM type 2 on my LS3 and it powers the Volvo ZF rack just fine from a pressure perspective. I used one of the flow control valves to reduce flow and the steering in the car has never felt better - great feel, not over-boosted.
Heidts has their act together regarding the MII and use the T'Bird rack because it does not need pressure reducing. The T'Bird has two racks, sport and regular. The one to use (and I'm sure they provided it) is the non-sport which requires more turns lock to lock. Much cheaper than a Mustang rack too. I'm using the T'Bird rack on my '39 and it works just fine.
33 - is the quicker rack actually quicker because of different rack/pinion ratio - or less turns lock to lock because they move the stops? Some of the Stang racks that are less turn lock to lock are less turns simply because they don’t turn as far.
Last edited by Michael Yount; Jun 12, 2020 at 03:38 PM.
I think the ratios are different because I got both and the wheels turned the same arc. Also did some research and the non-sport was recommended and a better match with the GM pump pressure.
A while back I got to thinking about the mis-matched pressures for GM pump to MII rack and wondered why not just use a Ford pump?
A while back I got to thinking about the mis-matched pressures for GM pump to MII rack and wondered why not just use a Ford pump?
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When I first built my '33 I used a turbo coupe rack and it was way too fast to drive comfortably. I switched to a regular fox body rack and it's much better now. The t bird rack was fewer turns lock to lock, but still turned the same amount as the mustang one.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 54
Likes: 5
I think where im getting confused is what type of lines and hardware do i need to connect the two. Im using the 84-88 T bird rack a buddy gave me, and the speedway GM type 1 pump kit didnt work. It looks like the gottashow setup might since it seems to support the male AN from the type 2 pump and has the connectors for what i beleive is 14mm and 16mm pressure and return on the rack. Or am I supposed to just build the hoses and crimp it on my own?
I had the local folks at Pirtek build the high pressure side for me --- GM CTSV pump; Volvo/ZF rack. The low pressure side is pretty easy assuming you can find the correct barbed fitting....just used 3/8" parts store low pressure PS return hose and clamps.
I used the Gottashow hoses, but had to fab a fitting to go on the high side of the pump because of the way the pump is mounted on a 2001 F body LS1. I like that the rack ends swivel like a factory Ford line. They have worked well over the 12 years I've been driving my car.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2019
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Ok sorry to dig up bones but this build has been more than a headache. Probably bit off more than I should chew but I'm moving forward.
Built lines myself and after many blisters got them to seat on the plastic return side of the pump reservoir. After a couple of start ups I noticed the hose leaking, and the base connection where the lines meet the rack. Gonna rebuild the lines with steel braided but is there any tricks I should use for sealing that connection at the pump? Pics?
Also, it seems only the bottom line leaks at the rack, and I didn't use thread tape on recommendation from a friend... Should I just thread tape and see what happens or is it possible I just over tightened and blew the threads?? Upon inspection it seems the threads are intact. Really hard to get a torque wrench in there so just going off snug feel.
Built lines myself and after many blisters got them to seat on the plastic return side of the pump reservoir. After a couple of start ups I noticed the hose leaking, and the base connection where the lines meet the rack. Gonna rebuild the lines with steel braided but is there any tricks I should use for sealing that connection at the pump? Pics?
Also, it seems only the bottom line leaks at the rack, and I didn't use thread tape on recommendation from a friend... Should I just thread tape and see what happens or is it possible I just over tightened and blew the threads?? Upon inspection it seems the threads are intact. Really hard to get a torque wrench in there so just going off snug feel.
Are you using the T-bird style rack too? The t-bird rack is O-ring style not inverted flare. Definitely no thread tape needed on those fittings. I used a premade kit I found on speedway motors recently.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 54
Likes: 5
Yes using T bird rack and just noticed those O rings. So maybe my threads are trashed.. I tried the speedway setup but it was too cramped, the heidts front end is a bit narrow and was interfering with the fittings. Actually tried two different prebuilt setups from them and they wouldn't take the returns.
Yes using T bird rack and just noticed those O rings. So maybe my threads are trashed.. I tried the speedway setup but it was too cramped, the heidts front end is a bit narrow and was interfering with the fittings. Actually tried two different prebuilt setups from them and they wouldn't take the returns.
Your best bet is to probably buy the 3 o-ring to 6an adapters and make yourself a couple an hoses.
Last edited by 1964SS; Jun 24, 2021 at 01:33 PM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 54
Likes: 5
I had made the lines out of an early high pressure line and it seemed like the pressure side was fine, but the return line was wet and the point at which it connects to the p/s reservoir is not a traditional threaded point. It's like a nippled plastic end so I used a clamp style fitting but it seems like it didn't secure well enough.
Use some silicone lubricant for the hose end. Makes a huge difference on stubborn hoses. Speedway sells a -6an fittings for the rack if you don't already have them. I just replaced a wore out rack on my Heidts clip Chevy II wagon.