Nick_R_23

I picked up an air box tray and core support mount from the junkyard for $10! It didn’t fit anywhere near as well as I was hoping that it would, but nothing that a few cuts and welds can’t fix.



Ended up going about this far to fit correctly.



Factory battery tray bracket and 07+ core support bracket joined together.





Fitment in the truck!





Also fabricated a fender bracket for the other side of the air box tray.

Nick_R_23

More test fitting of the air box tray!





All parts painted, and everything bolted down!





The ECU will be mounted on its own bracket directly behind the air box. Test mounting where the best spot will be.

Nick_R_23

Alright, another weekend of progress!

A few more components showed up in the mail. These are 1/4-20 rubber mounts with a 5/8" diameter body. They will be used to mount the Terminator X ECU.



This is an OE connector for the Ford Fusion fan. This will be used when the fan harness is built and integrated into the Terminator X.



New grommets came in for the airbox from the dealer!



I fabricated an ECU tray and installed the rubber mounts.



Tray and ECU installed! Wires were also routed during this time.





Next project, accessing the cooling fan. I picked up a mating connector for the fan at a junkyard, and picked up a PWM generator from Ebay. These cost less than $10 and will be a handy little piece for testing equipment in the future!



The test harness is made, and the fan works!



I've also made a video showing the PWM operation of the fan and the basic wiring needed to make it function!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMEX...ature=youtu.be

As shown here, it pushes a piece of paper very well!



I also made the dedicated battery connections for the Holley ECU.



And finally, here's the engine bay progress so far!

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

Simply outstanding.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Such a clean install. Are you going to fabricate a waterproof cover for the ECU? I'd hate for some water to ruin the ECU as the Terminator X ECU's aren't waterproof.

Nick_R_23

Thanks guys! The ECU is sealed according to Holley, so it should be just fine without any additional protection. This is pretty much an on road truck anyway, it’ll be pretty well out of the weather.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Good info in the video. With the known duty cycles now you can easily program the fan logic. One tip I have is you don't need to over think it. My PWM table is super simple and works perfectly. Have the fan off up until 195 and at 200 degrees put in the duty cycle for max speed.

Andrew

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

....and that's with a 187F t'stat on the inlet, right?

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Correct. The Holley software interpolates between cells and it will automatically ramp up (in this case down) the duty cycle as temps go up.

Andrew

G Atsma

Does this apply to any PWM electric fan setup on any LS with 187 thermostat?
I would have thought the temp spread would be wider.
Just so you know, I'm thinking of using the DCC PWM fan module #FK45. It has an adjustment pot with sensor at the radiator OUTLET (cool side)

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I can't speak about any other controller and how they might handle the control logic...

Andrew

G Atsma

OK, thanks Andrew! I'll give Brian Baskin a holler and see what he says.

kstanbach2

I used a Volvo PWM fan and used one of my Terminator X outputs to control the fan. The Volvo fan is PWN negative. I'll take a picture of it tomorrow for you.

kstanbach2

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

I use a DCC on both of my toys -- just set the temp at which you'd like to control to when the fans are in control. Brian recommends at least 5-7F degrees above the operating temp when the t'stat is controlling. On my LS, 187F oem t'stat on the inlet results in outlet temps in the 195F-197F at the sensor in the driver's side head. I set the DCC at 202F. If you have radiator and fan enough to manage -- when I'm cruising down the road at anything above about 30mph, I see 195F-197F. When I slow enough that it needs fan help - I see 200F-205F. When ambients are lower - the fans come on less and don't run as fast. When it's hotter, the fans come on more and run faster. You can trigger a fixed speed turn-on with a signal from the a/c system -- I use clutch activation for that.

G Atsma

Good info Michael! I didn't know you were running DCC controllers.
I think that's what I'm going to go with.
I bet if you adjust it down about 7 degrees (2 turns) your temps will even out.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

I bet if you adjust it down about 7 degrees (2 turns) your temps will even out. ?????

G Atsma

It seems to heat up more because of the gap in temp between thermostat temp and the radiator outlet temp.
I was told the fan controller temp should be at or above thermostat temp. Yours might be adjusted a little high.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

Two different scenarios -- if t'stat is on the OUTLET (most old school engines of all types) then set the fan to control 5-7F ABOVE the t'stat temp. if t'stat is on the inlet (LS and a lot of newer engines) then set the fan to control 5-7F above the temps of coolant leaving the block (where the ecu sensor is). If you set the controller any less than 5-7F relative to those temps, you can get weird feedback/control issues. In other words, you want enough gap that the fans shut completely off when the t'stat is controlling temps (under cruise).

On the Volvo - t'stat is on inlet at 187F. Head temps are 195-197F. Controller is set at 202F - which is 5-7F above the temps of coolant leaving the block. Works exactly as it should. I'm either operating at 195-197F or 202F depending on if the t'stat is controlling or if the fans are controlling.

On the Toyota, the 195F t'stat is on the OUTLET. Fans set at 202F. Operating temps identical to the Volvo.

G Atsma

Carl Casanova told me that the inlet stat still has block water circulating around it, so it acts like an old school outlet stat. I thought as you do until learning that.