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The oil pan and filter housing totals $720 from there though. I just can’t swallow that I guess. I have a tig welder and the tools to modify a off the shelf moroso or milodon pan. I am considering modifying the stock pan though. I can honestly do it for less than $50 in materials.
I am modifiying the stock harness, and being that this is a manual car what do I do with all the transmission wires? I am using lt1swap.com as a guide.
Porsche swappers normally go with the conversion headers, but I’m looking to go cheaper. $2k is hard for me to swallow. I’m considering making my own, but am curious if anything would work. Say like a fox body ls conversion headed? Or s10 headers? The passenger side has a ton of room, but the drivers side has to hug the block and hang towards the rear to clear the steering shaft. Any suggestions?
Different car - but I ended up modifying my steering shaft to clear the manifold I wanted to use.
I’d much rather use manifolds in this application. The hooker s10 manifolds look like they will clear, but j hate to buy them to have to ship them back.
The only thing I could possibly do it add a u joint in my steering rack, and I really hate to add more potential “slop” in it. Custom headers may be my only option.
Just catching up. I've never seen any stock headers work, good luck, I guess you can buy and alter a lot for the cost of the 944 specific swap headers, worth a try. Cam swap with the engine in the car won't be doable, you'll have to cut some front structure to accomplish that. 944 transaxle isn't going to be much fun, you'll be able to put stock 944 NA power through it. Seriously, I've blown up a stock transaxle in our stock 944 race car, they can barely take the power they came with from the factory. I guess you could put a block under the gas pedal or limit the throttle blade travel so you don't ever go full throttle? I just don't get the point in engine swapping if you can't use all the engine, if that makes sense. I say look for a 944 Turbo transaxle and enjoy.
I completely understand about the transaxle. There are a few success stories about guys making decent (350 dyno proven hp) in front of na transaxles and surviving on the street. I’m going to go with it for now, but I am going to keep my eyes out for a turbo one.
i made my own engine mounts, and poured the urethane bushings in them myself too. It was just easier than trying to get a bushing and cutting it down. Cheaper too. I welded on the stock aluminum pan for awhile, but it was turning into a headache trying to weld to the dirty aluminum. Did a little searching and figured out a 55-57 Chevy ls swap pan from kegs was very close to what I needed. So for $200 for a pan and pickup I figured I’d try it. It worked fine in my car, after using some heat and putting 2 small dents in the pan to clear the steering rack.
looks like the dual MC setup will just clear the engine, and I’ll be able to run the coils in the stock location. I picked up a handful of 1-1/2 pvc fittings today, I’m going to use that to mock up the headers.
I’d like to run the truck intake, I’ve already shaved everything off of it except the MAP sensor, I will have to relocate it though. I know 99% of Porsche owners will hate this, but I’m going to put a cowl scoop on it. I got a 4” steel one on the way now. It still might not be enough to clear. If so I’ll get an aftermarket intake.
since the stock pedal was floor mounted, I decided to leave it in place. I made a plate to mount the GM pedal to, cut most of the pedal off and fitting the Porsche rod to the GM pedal.
I fitted the balance bar to the brake pedal. It took some clearencing but it all clears. It will be awkward to adjust them, but once they are adjusted it won’t need messed with.
I’d like to run the truck intake, I’ve already shaved everything off of it except the MAP sensor, I will have to relocate it though. I know 99% of Porsche owners will hate this, but I’m going to put a cowl scoop on it. I got a 4” steel one on the way now. It still might not be enough to clear. If so I’ll get an aftermarket intake.
I thought about adding a 924 Turbo Scoop but in a different location. Most Porsche Owners already hate what we do anyways so who cares?
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I thought about adding a 924 Turbo Scoop but in a different location. Most Porsche Owners already hate what we do anyways so who cares?
Exactly, if I wasn’t doing all this to this car, it would of ended up in a field rotting away. Well they are really going to love this hahaha.
started making the mock up headers. 1-7/8 primaries are definitely too big for the current engine, but will wirk well for future plans.
Im looking at intakes, what’s the cheapest LS6 option? Is there any reason to not go with eBay intakes? I need to keep DBW, and I would really like to use the current injectors.
Last edited by tonyorlo; Nov 24, 2020 at 09:20 PM.
Subscribing for updates! I bought a 83 944 my senior year of HS in 89...worked my *** off for years to buy it off one of my older brothers who had 2 at the time. Fun cars for sure.
I got the master cylinders fitted and pulled them to build the headers. Trying to button up small details. The factory VDO oil pressure sender is a challenge. Being 18mm I’m having a tough time fitting where to place it. It may go in the remote oil filter adapter.
it’s close to the engine, I had to modify the coil bracket. Moved #7 coil up about 1/2” and cut the bracket down.
The bends and flanges should be delivered tomorrow so I can get the headers built. Once they are done I can get a lot of stuff wrapped up.
So I had to get a car intake. I bought a Dorman 615-900 from jegs, but over 2 weeks have gone by with no shipping updates. I’m going to contact dorman tomorrow, if it’s not shipped I may cancel the order.
I hate to say it, but I’m considering a fleabay intake if the dorman doesn’t work out.
Also, can I use a gps sender with the correct pulses to signal the VSS? This car has a mechanical speedo. I understand it’s not needed, and I will probably try to run without it at first, but I really want this car to run like a factory car would.
Check VDO's catalog - my Volvo also used an 18mm sender; but I found that VDO made a 16mm x 1.5 with the same resistance specs that screwed right into the LS' oil galley passages - either behind the low mount alt on the driver's side and at the back of the galley above the oil filter - threaded plugs in either location.
My car - also a mechanical speedo - I found a box that uses a GPS signal to drive a servo which spins the cable - and, of course, you can calibrate it so it's reasonably accurate.
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