Thanks. Yes, I'm familiar with their name and come to think of it I've seen those wheels on a Chevelle onlne recently but they work a lot better on your former car, maybe it's the silver body. From here it was a really good choice, also, nice job on the stance.

 

I will do some searching for that. I was curious if all VDO senders used the same range? I thought about contacting them, but their site didn’t look to be for a “off the street” customer.

actually the speedo on this car is driven from a cable off of the front wheel, so there’s no issue with it still working. I just wanted to use a gps sender for the PCM to get a speed signal. I’ve read there could be stalling issues decelerating and stopping.

 

On speed - now I understand. I don't think a GPS-generated speed signal is going to work for what the ECU needs - don't think it's going to be clean/smooth enough, but I could be wrong. Perhaps a magnet(s) and pickup (old school cruise control style) on one of the rear CV joints would do the trick. On mine, I use the VSS signal from the Mustang/Tremec transmission that's behind my LS -- works just fine for helping with the occasional stall while coming to a stop issue that some folks experience without a speed signal.

 

Ah, I was not sure. I will say the GPS sender I have in my s10 does kind of lag a little bit. I’ll just roll the dice and see how it acts. I will definitely read more into the cv type cruise control pickups. It will almost have to be there because everything’s concealed up to the CVs.

Got a Holley Sniper intake yesterday, unfortunately it was just a hair too tall. Honestly I was not impressed with the quality of it, it looks identical to the cheaper jegs or summit branded intakes. It was made in China which was not very impressive either.

So I scored an LS6 intake on eBay with the rails and injectors. I’d rather have this than a flashy Holley one anyway. If I decide to use the injectors included with the LS6, will I need Dyno time to tune it, or is it something I could change, then run it for awhile, data log and make corrections as I go?

 

Think Dakota Digital makes a box designed to take a speedo cable input, provides a speedo cable output for your speedo and generates a wave form that the ecu can use for speed....

If the lb/hr of the LS6 injectors is different than what is expected by your ecu, I suspect some sort of tuning will need to be done; don't know if there is a difference in impedance that needs to be addressed too --- others on the site more educated than I in this arena. I run all stock to stay out of that area that I don't fully understand.

 

Nothing more American than LS swaps and Cowl hoods!! Cool swap, looks like its gonna be a fun ride.

 

that would be perfect! I’ll do some research on that, it will save me a lot of headache!

 

Exactly! V8 with everything manual (except the throttle body haha) is a true hot rod.

Got the tube for my headers, this is a first for me but I’m eager to dig in. They won’t be perfect, but you got to start somewhere. I need to get a dual regulator for my argon bottle so I can purge these as I weld them.

 

Check speedo gear here -- https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/speed-sensors

 

What header kit are you using?

 

Michael thank you for that link! Exactly what I need.

Rmchevelle, I just made mock ups out of PVC and purchased bends from Columbia River Mandrel and Summit (Stainlessworks).

This is my first time so I am sure these aren’t ideal, but you got to start somewhere. Hopefully the next set I build for whatever project will be a little
better.

 

I'm going to follow this. I'm building a 1939 Ford with an LS1 and running into issues. Space constraints being the biggest one. It's encouraging to see someone else doing an atypical swap. I'm filled with determination.

 

That looks pretty good to me! Once fit is good - break tacks at the flange, weld up the tubes and then re-attach to flange?

 

Iamblamb, this one may not be as tight as your project. This header has to wrap around the steering shaft and is kinda odd. The 1-1/2” PVC I used is larger than the 1.75” stainless tube I am using, but I’d rather go big for mock up and smaller for the end product.

Michael, your exactly right. I’m tacking it all, and I’ll cut the welds on the flange so I can weld up the primaries separately. I honestly haven’t done enough research on how to build headers, I’m just flying by the seat of my pants. I do know I need to purge the inside with argon when I finish weld the seams, so I’m buying a dual regulator for my argon bottle.

 

2.5” dual or single 3” exhaust? Is there any compact mufflers LS guys run?

 

I run dual 2.5” all the way back through 2015 Coyote 5.0L mufflers - but you won’t have room. 3.5” would be better in a single. Good luck on muffler choice.

 

I decided on dual 2.5s and went with Pypes mufflers. Watching videos and reading comments on them I hope they will work ok for my application.

working on the passenger side header. I can easily route the pipe around the starter, but I’d like to leave room so I can pull it without dropping the header. Is it common on these swaps to have to drop a header to change the starter?

 

Got everything in and tried starting today. I used PCMhammer and TunerPro to write to the PCM. I used a common OS Id 7603. I removed vats, EVAP stuff, selected manual trans, E fan settings and removed a few MILs. It wrote fine and seemed to be good. I used the stock harness modified per LT1swap.com, and a 18 cuircut fuse/relay panel.

Had a few small hiccups but I was able to get it started. Before starting I had 3 DTCs
P0452 - EVAP, I will need to remove it from the tune
U0107 - lost communication with TAC

I checked Voltage and ground at TAC, and checked grounds at TB. All were good. With the key on the TB would move with pedal movement. After starting car it idled for about 1 min then I shut it off. Giving the car throttle the engine stumbled and then went back to idle. Tried again and it did nothing but idle.

Checked DTCs After that run and had 16 codes.
7 were EVAP and rear O2 sensor related so I will take care of them.

3 were MAF related, MAF was connected but not it in the intake air flow path. That’s human error on my part.

The codes I have to correct

P1516 TAC position performance, through my research I need to ring out all the control wires from TB to TAC.
Possible causes,
no VSS
TCC Brake Switch not connected to anything. I thought it would make only effect converter lock up while car is moving?

P0200 Injector circuit malfunction.
Things to check,
12v at each injector, ohm injectors, check circuits with noid light.

P0230 FP Primary circuit malfunction.
Causes,
Bad PCM? Research didn’t give me much info.

I cleared the codes and tried to start the car. No start, it will fire off for a second on starting fluid. FP is 58 at the rail. As I type this it really sounds like a voltage problem to the injectors.

Everything was pulled from the same running truck. I went through the harness and repaired anything that appeared to be faulty. Any connection or splice I made was with bare butt splices, crimped soldered and heat shrunk. Not saying I’m perfect but I really tried to make all connections good.

It seems like DBW is problematic with swaps sometimes. I am considering going to DBC. I have a DBC PCM and TB. I’d honestly rather not after going through the trouble to install this.

Sorry for the novel, just want to be detailed in case someone has some input. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

Problem Solved:

Disabled everything abuse management related in the Bin file.