Gen 3 to gen 4 ls fbody wont start
#21
I'm pretty sure my HP tuners shows RPM as the motor turns over from the starter. If you can at least see that I'd say your crank sensor is working. Does that seem reasonable to anyone else? You can also just probe the wires with a multimeter and see if it's giving the proper voltage. Did you put in the LS1 crank sensor? The 58x and 24x are different from what I knew. I've also seen issues from non OEM sensors and them actually not being seated all the way in to the block. I know that may sound a little basic but I'd do everything I could before I had to yank the motor out. Can I ask what it cost to have the crank removed and the reluctor wheel replaced? I personally would've left it alone and just grabbed a Holley terminator but I guess that point is moot. Hopefully this can be solved without an engine removal.
#22
TECH Addict
iTrader: (27)
Like the others have said, try getting an oscilloscope to see when the cranking events are. Then you can determine if the reluctor is properly clocked.
There was another thread not long ago where a guy had this exact same issue and the shop didn't clock it properly. From what I remember he took the crank back to the shop and they fixed it for free, but lots of labor to get the crank out...
There was another thread not long ago where a guy had this exact same issue and the shop didn't clock it properly. From what I remember he took the crank back to the shop and they fixed it for free, but lots of labor to get the crank out...
#23
I'm pretty sure my HP tuners shows RPM as the motor turns over from the starter. If you can at least see that I'd say your crank sensor is working. Does that seem reasonable to anyone else? You can also just probe the wires with a multimeter and see if it's giving the proper voltage. Did you put in the LS1 crank sensor? The 58x and 24x are different from what I knew. I've also seen issues from non OEM sensors and them actually not being seated all the way in to the block. I know that may sound a little basic but I'd do everything I could before I had to yank the motor out. Can I ask what it cost to have the crank removed and the reluctor wheel replaced? I personally would've left it alone and just grabbed a Holley terminator but I guess that point is moot. Hopefully this can be solved without an engine removal.
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G Atsma (02-11-2021)
#24
TECH Regular
If you pull the distributor out of an old SBC, spin it around and put it back in with the rotor pointing to some random position, you'll have spark but the engine won't run. Same thing here if the reluctor wheel wasn't installed in the right location (rotation) on the crankshaft.
#25
Yes, it's called a 'timing light' which is a tool from back in the horse and buggy days.
#26
TECH Regular
#27
Timing light is the sure-fire (ha!) way to check it. You can either use a dial-back timing light and preset it to the cranking spark value from the tune file for whatever the ambient temp is, or without a dial-back light, load a temporary tune with the cranking spark table zeroed out. Even without either of those tricks the TDC mark should be within a plausible range of the pointer.
#28
So, after setting the engine to tdc #1, marking the balancer and rigging a pointer , I blew the dust off of my old timing light only to find it no longer worked. I ordered one off amazon and fimally got around to checking the engine earlier tonight. As I suspected, the timing appears to be almost a complete 180 deg out. Unfortunately, it looks like I will be pulling the engine back out this weekend to rip it down and have the reluctor re-clocked. Thank you everyone for helping out and passinv along ideas
#29
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
So, after setting the engine to tdc #1, marking the balancer and rigging a pointer , I blew the dust off of my old timing light only to find it no longer worked. I ordered one off amazon and fimally got around to checking the engine earlier tonight. As I suspected, the timing appears to be almost a complete 180 deg out. Unfortunately, it looks like I will be pulling the engine back out this weekend to rip it down and have the reluctor re-clocked. Thank you everyone for helping out and passinv along ideas
#30
When I installed the cam, I installed it dot to dot and made sure the adjustable timing set was aligned correcty. Im not sure if I could have installed it 180 out. Is that possible if the cam was installed dot to dot?
#31
TECH Senior Member
If crank dot is on top and cam dot on the bottom, you should be OK.
#32
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
Sometimes crankshafts are keyed wrong, sometimes camshafts are ground wrong. It's always a good idea to degree the camshaft. In this case it is beyond good idea and should be your next step of investigation. You can at least visually check if the intake and exhaust are dancing with the right cadence.
#33
If the camshaft were 180* out that would simply be #1 TDC exhaust/#6 TDC compression instead of #1 TDC compression/#6 TDC exhaust, and determining which is which is the job of the cam position sensor.
If you time the cam with the crank dot up and the cam dot up, that's "180* out". Turn the crank 360* and it's now crank dot up and cam dot down. It goes "180* out" every other crank revolution.
If you time the cam with the crank dot up and the cam dot up, that's "180* out". Turn the crank 360* and it's now crank dot up and cam dot down. It goes "180* out" every other crank revolution.
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00whitebirdws6 (02-13-2021)
#34
Fun fact: On every gen1 SBC ever made (I don't know if they changed it on the LS since without a distributor there's no reason for it to make a difference) "dot-to-dot" is actually #6 TDC compression, and if you set it dot-to-dot and then drop in the distributor pointing at #1, it won't run. #1 TDC compression is actually with both dots up. This is usually never an issue as the crank usually gets turned to adjust valves before the distributor goes back in and #1 TDC is re-found using the rocker arm motion.
#35
Is it the ckp or cmp that controls timing on an ls? I would assume that even if the cam is 180 out or out of time somehow, the ignition event should be correct if the crank reluctor is timed correctly and it controls the timing right?
#36
CMP is only used to determine #1 from #6, it's not used for spark timing other than that.
"The camshaft reluctor wheel is part of the camshaft gear. The reluctor wheel contains a pattern of 2 narrow teeth, and 2 wide teeth around the circumference of the wheel. The falling or trailing edges of the 4 teeth are evenly spaced at 90 degrees apart. The engine control module (ECM) recognizes the narrow and wide tooth patterns to identify camshaft position, or which cylinder is in compression, and which is in exhaust. The ECM also uses the reluctor wheel information to determine the camshaft relative position to the crankshaft position."
"The camshaft reluctor wheel is part of the camshaft gear. The reluctor wheel contains a pattern of 2 narrow teeth, and 2 wide teeth around the circumference of the wheel. The falling or trailing edges of the 4 teeth are evenly spaced at 90 degrees apart. The engine control module (ECM) recognizes the narrow and wide tooth patterns to identify camshaft position, or which cylinder is in compression, and which is in exhaust. The ECM also uses the reluctor wheel information to determine the camshaft relative position to the crankshaft position."
#37
CMP is only used to determine #1 from #6, it's not used for spark timing other than that.
"The camshaft reluctor wheel is part of the camshaft gear. The reluctor wheel contains a pattern of 2 narrow teeth, and 2 wide teeth around the circumference of the wheel. The falling or trailing edges of the 4 teeth are evenly spaced at 90 degrees apart. The engine control module (ECM) recognizes the narrow and wide tooth patterns to identify camshaft position, or which cylinder is in compression, and which is in exhaust. The ECM also uses the reluctor wheel information to determine the camshaft relative position to the crankshaft position."
"The camshaft reluctor wheel is part of the camshaft gear. The reluctor wheel contains a pattern of 2 narrow teeth, and 2 wide teeth around the circumference of the wheel. The falling or trailing edges of the 4 teeth are evenly spaced at 90 degrees apart. The engine control module (ECM) recognizes the narrow and wide tooth patterns to identify camshaft position, or which cylinder is in compression, and which is in exhaust. The ECM also uses the reluctor wheel information to determine the camshaft relative position to the crankshaft position."
#39
From the manual for a 24x/1x engine, if you would like it in GM-speak:
"The camshaft reluctor wheel is either pressed onto the camshaft or part of the camshaft gear depending on the application. The feature-or target- is read in a radial or axial fashion respectively. The wheel is a smooth track, half of which is of a lower profile than the other half. This feature allows the camshaft position (CMP) sensor to supply a signal as soon as the key is turned ON, since the CMP sensor reads the track profile, instead of a notch."
"The camshaft reluctor wheel is either pressed onto the camshaft or part of the camshaft gear depending on the application. The feature-or target- is read in a radial or axial fashion respectively. The wheel is a smooth track, half of which is of a lower profile than the other half. This feature allows the camshaft position (CMP) sensor to supply a signal as soon as the key is turned ON, since the CMP sensor reads the track profile, instead of a notch."
#40
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
Right, to put it in everyday speak: The crankshaft reluctor wheel provides the high-resolution position sensing of crankshaft rotation, but the crankshaft turns twice for every combustion cycle so the camshaft sprocket is used to augment that data to let the engine ECM know whether it is in the first 360° of rotation or the second 360° of rotation (720° for every combustion cycle).
Regarding when spark timing occurs, the ECM only sees the reluctor wheels (not actual piston position) so spark timing will occur according to how the ECM is interpreting the timing pattern. It is up to the engine builder to properly index the crank and cam wheels to the rotating assembly so the timing data is accurate.
Now, the camshaft itself also has to be indexed properly to the crankshaft. If I were the OP, then I would degree the cam to make sure the engine hardware (rotating assembly) is married up properly. Knowing, good or bad, is still better than not knowing and will help build confidence about next step forward.
Regarding when spark timing occurs, the ECM only sees the reluctor wheels (not actual piston position) so spark timing will occur according to how the ECM is interpreting the timing pattern. It is up to the engine builder to properly index the crank and cam wheels to the rotating assembly so the timing data is accurate.
Now, the camshaft itself also has to be indexed properly to the crankshaft. If I were the OP, then I would degree the cam to make sure the engine hardware (rotating assembly) is married up properly. Knowing, good or bad, is still better than not knowing and will help build confidence about next step forward.