Help with theft deterrent system on swap
Put an L99 from a 2012 camaro in a 69 camaro. Included factory gauges, wiring harness, ecm, bcm, etc. any reason why we would still be getting this error?
Thanks!
Thanks!
If you used EVERYTHING and you have the correct key, it shouldn't know it isn't still in the '12 Camaro. Is it not starting? That is a lot of wires and a lot of connections that could potentially cause you problems. You will have to double and triple check all your grounds and other connections.
Have you tried doing the VATS relearn procedure on it?
If you are going for keeping VATS in then I think it's just going to be a tedious matter of reading pin-outs and testing every plug. Make sure every ground in an diagram from the donor car is grounded through out the body. There are no real fail safe ways with that many wires to transfer it all. It's just so many connections. But if the whole system got pulled apart, unplugged, transferred and plugged back in and the relearn hasn't been done then that's my bet.
If you are going for keeping VATS in then I think it's just going to be a tedious matter of reading pin-outs and testing every plug. Make sure every ground in an diagram from the donor car is grounded through out the body. There are no real fail safe ways with that many wires to transfer it all. It's just so many connections. But if the whole system got pulled apart, unplugged, transferred and plugged back in and the relearn hasn't been done then that's my bet.
Have you tried doing the VATS relearn procedure on it?
If you are going for keeping VATS in then I think it's just going to be a tedious matter of reading pin-outs and testing every plug. Make sure every ground in an diagram from the donor car is grounded through out the body. There are no real fail safe ways with that many wires to transfer it all. It's just so many connections. But if the whole system got pulled apart, unplugged, transferred and plugged back in and the relearn hasn't been done then that's my bet.
If you are going for keeping VATS in then I think it's just going to be a tedious matter of reading pin-outs and testing every plug. Make sure every ground in an diagram from the donor car is grounded through out the body. There are no real fail safe ways with that many wires to transfer it all. It's just so many connections. But if the whole system got pulled apart, unplugged, transferred and plugged back in and the relearn hasn't been done then that's my bet.
anyone think it could be that there doors arent on the car? does the latch mechanism play a part at all? I still have the donor car doors handy and can bring them in to plug in and try...
anything else seems to work with the exception of the heated seats with the key in the on position. No fuel yet. We did not bring over the ABS system but all associated grounds in that loom are grounded.
mind boggling
I don't think Vats goes to the latches on the doors but to the lock mechanism. I think it goes to the hood latch, the trunk and the door locks. There might even be a VATS thing on the engine starter too. I'm not 100% on any of this though because I have never tried to transfer that stuff yet.
I would not bring the ABS system over to be honest. Those things are like airbag systems in that they are programmed for the exact weight, balance, size brakes, calipers, etc...literally everything exactly for the car they come in. You cannot get into the programming of them to change anything....it's not going to function safely on a different car. Same with airbags. Won't go off right, don't have the pre-tentioner system in the seat belts, etc... Dangerous. That's why those modules can never be reflashed, they just brick. Tamper proof.
I would not bring the ABS system over to be honest. Those things are like airbag systems in that they are programmed for the exact weight, balance, size brakes, calipers, etc...literally everything exactly for the car they come in. You cannot get into the programming of them to change anything....it's not going to function safely on a different car. Same with airbags. Won't go off right, don't have the pre-tentioner system in the seat belts, etc... Dangerous. That's why those modules can never be reflashed, they just brick. Tamper proof.
Pretty sure the lock mechanism is built into the latches on that car, but that said, don't think it would keep the car from starting, unless the factory alarm has somehow been set, and since the BCM didn't see an unlock signal, it isn't allowing the engine to start. If that is the case, the horn would be going off, so maybe try hooking up the horn, or hit the unlock button on the remote. You would have to have the RCDLR hooked up for that to work though.
Trending Topics
Thanks for the responses guys! Still trying to sort it out.
Just fyi, we are not pulling in the ABS or air bag system over. Made me think of something though - the donor car was in a front end collision - I bought it from insurance auction. So, steering wheel and dash airbags were blown - I don't think that's really an issue though because we started the car and drove it on the trailer and drove it around some at the shop before pulling the engine and trans.
If you come up with any other ideas, please feel free to share. I'll share if we ever sort it out too!
Just fyi, we are not pulling in the ABS or air bag system over. Made me think of something though - the donor car was in a front end collision - I bought it from insurance auction. So, steering wheel and dash airbags were blown - I don't think that's really an issue though because we started the car and drove it on the trailer and drove it around some at the shop before pulling the engine and trans.
If you come up with any other ideas, please feel free to share. I'll share if we ever sort it out too!
If it ran and drove before you swapped everything over, then you're just missing something somewhere. Now what or where that may be will just have to be hunted down by you, no way to do that over the internet. Airbags being deployed won't keep it from starting. I looked on your other thread and saw where the dash is displaying a theft deterrent message on the dash. That could be as simple as a bad connection somewhere or a bad ignition switch/wiring to it. So my question is, does the car start or not? It's kind of unclear if you are wanting to know why that message is on the DIC or if the car isn't starting because of it.
If it ran and drove before you swapped everything over, then you're just missing something somewhere. Now what or where that may be will just have to be hunted down by you, no way to do that over the internet. Airbags being deployed won't keep it from starting. I looked on your other thread and saw where the dash is displaying a theft deterrent message on the dash. That could be as simple as a bad connection somewhere or a bad ignition switch/wiring to it. So my question is, does the car start or not? It's kind of unclear if you are wanting to know why that message is on the DIC or if the car isn't starting because of it.
Ok, so either you're missing something, like something didn't get plugged in all the way or at all, or maybe something got damaged during the swapping process. Do you have a way to scan it to see what it is you're missing? That's where you are going to need to start, otherwise you will be just stabbing in the dark.
Quick update. Pulled gas tank and ABS system of the donor and plugged them into the wiring loom. Cleared theft system! Yay! Still wont crank. Diagnostics will at least communicate with the ECM now though.
it will crank and fire by shorting the starter across. So, we feel like were getting pretty close.
Any ideas? we are thinking maybe brake sensor of some kind? Using the master cylinder and booster off the 2012, but lines arent hooked up yet and pedal is not fully mounted.
Tried the 30 minutes with key in on position relearn process. No luck there. Will try the 3 ten minute process tomorrow maybe if we work on it.
Would love to hear other ideas!
Thanks!
it will crank and fire by shorting the starter across. So, we feel like were getting pretty close.
Any ideas? we are thinking maybe brake sensor of some kind? Using the master cylinder and booster off the 2012, but lines arent hooked up yet and pedal is not fully mounted.
Tried the 30 minutes with key in on position relearn process. No luck there. Will try the 3 ten minute process tomorrow maybe if we work on it.
Would love to hear other ideas!
Thanks!





