ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Hey guys,

I'm in the researching phase of my future AC build, but I came across a bunch of Cheap Chevy Volt AC compressors and was wondering if this could be an option for installing with Vintage Air? They are self contained and won't need to be driven off of the accessory drive. For me personally with the CTS-V accessories there isn't an option any longer for low mounting an AC compressor, so this would be ideal to use since it can be placed anywhere. I thought I read somewhere that they ran at a much higher voltage though? I tried doing a little research, but didn't come up with much. Thought I would turn to the folks here that are much more knowledgeable with electrical systems.

Thanks,
Ryan

THEFERMANATOR

As far as I know, hybrids use ac compressors that run at high voltage(200+ volts), so I don't believe those are an option. Look into big truck shops as they have some ac compressors that run on batteries.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

I use CTSV PS bracket, Corvette spacing and low mount alt and compressor....

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

I was barely able to squeak in a Sanden SB7 unit low mounted in my car at the truck spacing. Now that my plans have changed, there's no way that it will fit in the same low mount spot 1.5" rearward. I think the only other option that I can think of to run it in the low mount spot is to move it up to the 6 rib accessory drive. It would be ideal to keep it in that same factory spot, but run at the main accessory belt. Maybe someone makes a bracket like that.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

If this is in the 68 you're building, yeah, you've likely got stuff in the way down there that I don't have to deal with.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Yes, It is for my 1968. I've been messaging a guy building a very similar car as mine and he's working on the AC at the moment, which got me thinking. He's running his LSA at the Fbody belt spacing with a custom pulley, which is an option if I decide to go that route in the future. I would prefer to keep the 8 rib belt on the supercharger though.

I was reading an article recently that was discussing the Volt accessories and it mentioned that only the drive motors run at high voltage. The accessories such as radio, power windows, electric fans and etc run at 12v. I'm going to dig further into this.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

Can you high mount it on the passenger side? Any idea how much parasitic load the electrics are gonna place on the alt/battery set up? Part of the reason they run at 200V I suspect is to reduce the current requirement.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

I don't think I can mount it on the passenger side with my current engine accessories since the HD 8 rib tensioner occupies that space.



I'll look into the load requirements for the setup. It's probably not going to work, but figured it was worth a look.

Haggar

I posted yesterday, but it didn't seem to show up. The Volt AC compressor is 360 Volt 3 phase.

Haggar

Yep. Belt drive compressors take about 5HP or so, which is ~3700 watts. They get down to about half that on the ones for electric cars, but its still usually going to be 1500-2500 watts. So you are talking 120-200 amps continuous on a typical car electrical system, if you could set up a motor this way. You roughly figure they reduce current by a factor of 30 or so (360v/12v), so you get current down below 10 amps. Plus the 3 phase is more efficient at generating motor torque.

Jimbo1367

Why can’t u do a low mount on the pass. Side?

Haggar

I feel your pain. I got totally derailed on my current swap last summer over AC brackets. (I'm not doing an LSA, but I have the same issue that there's no room for a low mount in my 1992 Corvette, I run into the suspension/crossmember). I've gone through 2 different bracket setups that don't clear. I think I found one that will (Kwik), or I will machine my own.

In your case, It's not a cheap way to go, but LSX concepts has different 8-rib drives that will move your stock tensioner out of the way enough that I think you can then high mount a Sanden SD7 up high on the passenger side off the 6 rib belt.

https://www.lsxconcepts.com/collecti...uty-race-drive

There's an LSA swap group on facebook, with a lot of good posts, you might find some info there.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

This is what I mocked up about 3 years ago. This is the Dirty Dingo low mount with the Sanden SD7 compressor that I sold recently. This is how tight the fitment was at the truck spacing. Now I'm running at the Corvette spacing that is 1.5" rearward. I really don't want to mess around with modifying the motor mounts to fit the low mount, but that may be what I end up having to do.



Haggar, thanks for the info on the Volt AC unit. Looks like those will definitely not work for the current and voltage requirements. My alternator is only a 165 amp unit so I'm limited there again because of space. I go over that in my build thread.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

I'm part of that group on FB, so I'll have to post something there when I'm closer to adding AC.

THEFERMANATOR

This may be an option. Says 8-10k btu output at under 50 amp current draw. There is some larger units out there for semi truck sleepers, but they are mostly 24 volts from what I was finding.

https://www.cruisencomfortusa.com/hot-rod-series-1

MREGW

Sean Hyland used to make an electric set up a few years back. but anyone have any info on this? says it's 66a draw
https://www.ebay.com/itm/28436360016...oAAOSwQ-pg5JDd

showdog75

iTrader: (8)

Why don't you modify the bracket that's made for the 4 rib setup? Can you weld? I had to notch my Alan Grove lower bracket and made my own upper because I used a sd7 compressor instead of the sd5.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

That's probably what I'll end up doing and running the A/C compressor on the main accessory belt drive. That's really my only option to keep it in the low mount position without having to change my mounts, headers, etc. Unless I find something in the meantime, I'll end up going with the ICT low mount that has a bracket that allows the compressor to bolt on from the front, rather than the side of the motor. That eliminates one axis, so that I only need to worry about the depth of the compressor.