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when I had a 6.0 I was running speed engineering 1 3/4” longtubes and they fit well.
I have a 427ci LS Next 6 bolt (LSX style) cylinder heads.
I bought a set of speed engineering long tubes with a 1 7/8” primary and the #1 cylinder primary is blocked by a head bolt.
Looks like the extra head blots are the issue. If the headers fit otherwise I would see if an extra set of gaskets and a blank header flange would help if used like a spacer.
I had the1-7/8 Speed Eng headers on my 67 GTO, but my issue was the #3 spark plug was blocked by the primary tube. I ran them for a while then popped for Hooker Blackhearts 1-7/8 stainless. No issues now with access to the plug and no burning plug wires too. The Blackhearts are stupid expensive but they fit like they should and sometimes that's worth the money. They hang down even with the bottom of the trans pan incase u were wondering. Oh yeah I also torched the old SE headers and bent them away from the frame rail on the passenger side
Last edited by Brer Rabbit; Apr 18, 2021 at 07:05 PM.
looks like the blackhearts come straight out from the port before turning down. The SE headers turn right away and hug the block a lot closer. Looks like blackhearts will solve ur problem. ur welcome to come with me on my next bank robbery.
Lol tff. I’d look at Dougs Headers swap header before I spent over a 1k.
I was going thru issues until Dougs on a 70 Camaro . I realize it’s a different x car, But it’s free to check out their website
so I had a set of Doug’s headers laying around for a different car and tried them out. They fit! So I order some. I will still have to trim some of the bell housing where the starter goes but that’s it.
Got the Doug’s headers installed. Part number is D3336.
I am using a stock style SBC poly mount with eBay swap plates and the stock cross member mounts.
they fit great in the engine compartment but the collectors touch the floor :/ I used a pry bar to try and make more room which it did but not a lot. I’m looking at replacing the body bushings as the are original and probably pancaked. Swap plate SBc mount Passenger side header Passenger collector hitting floor Driver header Driver side collector Ground clearance
My thoughts are to use a thinner mounting plate. We are effectively putting a wedge in between the frame cross member. use a smaller wedge and the engine drops lower.I don't know how to do the math but my guess is that it's more than a 1 to 1 ratio in width / drop. If a thinner aluminum plate worries you just get a a 1/4" steel mounting plate. Beautiful engine btw. Tony
My thoughts are to use a thinner mounting plate. We are effectively putting a wedge in between the frame cross member. use a smaller wedge and the engine drops lower.I don't know how to do the math but my guess is that it's more than a 1 to 1 ratio in width / drop. If a thinner aluminum plate worries you just get a a 1/4" steel mounting plate. Beautiful engine btw. Tony
thank you!!
the swap plate is .25” thick already.. I’m going to try these Holley mounts.. looks like it would remove that swap plate and I’d get my clearance.
i ordered both Holley mounts (forward 1” and stock location) so I’ll post pics of what fits when they show up
Set your driveline angles first, before you do anything. Might be as simple as a trans mount adjustment, to gain header clearance.
im going to get a shorter transmission mount too.. the other issue with dropping my driveline angle is the exhaust from the collector will be interfered by the transmission crossmember.
So are you saying that your exhaust is going above your trans cross member or is it looped for the exhaust to go through.?
the transmission crossmember that came with my t56 kit from SilverSport Transmissions is very similar to this one
the crossmember is tight against the floorboard and drops down where the transmission mounts. The crossmember is approximately 1.5” thick. It’s a boxed tube design.
so the exhaust has to go under the crossmember
i might have one that offers better clearance for exhaust laying around my shop, I’ll have to look for it.