LSswap

I can almost see enough space there for an water to air IC right up front. Maybe swing the turbo outlet down.

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

No doubt an A2A intercooler itself will fit - problem is getting around the radiator/core support with those 3" charge pipes. I really don't want to cut the nose up if I don't have to. Might go through the fender wells.

Trying to stay away from A2W because of all the complexity - all those lines, a pump, water tank in the trunk, etc.

LSswap

I just did one for my van (not LS), used a small honda radiator as combo tank/heat exchanger. LMK if you want to see a picture. Really like how little piping. I may convert my vette to a/w.

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Hell yeah post it up!

LSswap

There is almost no I/C piping, maybe 4" of slight bends to line up the output of the turbo to the I/C. I welded the BOV directly to the I/C

LSswap

Would this fit in your setup?

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

For some reason I'm not able to see your pictures anymore?

Jimbo1367

I can see them. The post before Ryan’s post is a drawn one. Not a actual picture

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I've seen some a/w combos where folks are running a small tank up front, not a big race tank in the trunk.

I think if I were building a 700-800HP combo I'd personally strongly consider a/w.

I'm amazed my engine cools with the giant FMIC I have in my car.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

I can see the posts by LSswap, but not the OP.

TippyTony

Here is how I've routed my A2A:



This one is from VS Racing, last I checked it wasn't listed on the website, but if you email Viren he can source it for you. This one is 4" core, Ø3" in and out.

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Lots of progress, no pictures to show for it. Every time I get out in the garage after putting the kids to bed I just jam the work out and get in the zone.

Trans cooler (40K) mounted and plumbed.

Stock Jaguar throttle cable hooked up; I had to modify and extend the LS throttle cable bracket. The pedal is a bit stiff so I might remove one or both springs that are mounted on the pedal.

Radiator is mounted and rad hoses are done. Bottom is a typical LS1 Camaro hose, upper is a stock truck hose that I cut up and spliced to snake under the charge pipe.

Heater hoses were a pain due to the way the hotside crowds the passenger side. I ran 2 90* hoses around the front of the motor and back down the driver's side to feed the heater core and surge tank. Originally I was going to use an Audi B7 A4 tank due to the large capacity and mounting tabs, but I did some more digging and actually found a much nicer option from a 2005-2010+ Equinox. The mounting tabs are for a vertical wall application meaning they're well suited to older cars that don't have the weird contours of modern vehicles. The outlet exits straight out the bottom which makes it easy to tee into the heater return, and the steam vent/deaeration line exits horizontally. 15psi cap and a nice compact package, all available at your local Pick and Pull for under $10.

The newer models have a modern black plastic top while the older ones are fully clear.





Next up:

Cleaning up engine bay wiring
Terminator X Install
Fuel Cell Install

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

What does the plumbing diagram look like when using a surge tank? Are you using it because the radiator fill is lower than the upper radiator hose?

Andrew

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

I'm using it because it's a more convenient fill point and allows breathing room in the cooling system for thermal expansion/contraction. Most of all, using a surge tank provides the benefits of deaeration which vastly increases cooling efficiency. Say certain areas of the heads get very hot and boil the coolant causing steam pockets - the steam will travel uphill out of the steam tubes and right into the surge tank, where the coolant has a chance to fall back down due to gravity and the steam can then condense back into liquid form. I suppose it could keep going downhill into the radiator vent port but even there it would be pumped across the radiator cooling it right off. Here is a great article/page that I have used as a guide since my first swap almost 10 years ago. The entire article is great but I use this diagram/section in particular the most.

http://www.billavista.com/tech/Artic...CoolingSystems

Since my surge tank doesn't have a separate overflow port and just dumps out the bottom in case of over pressurization, I don't use a traditional non-pressurized puke tank. For that reason this tank may not be a good option for someone running on a track where they require you to have a puke tank to collect coolant in case of overheating. I saw a neat trick by Truck Doug on here where he plumbed his overflow line to his passenger wiper fluid line so that he could see instantly if he was lifting a head or boiling over while making a pass under boost.

My radiator is an LT1 F-Body stock replacement that has a traditional radiator cap with its own overflow tube. Note: "If you add a surge tank to a system that already has a rad cap on the radiator, you need to permanently seal the radiator rad cap location, or at least install on the rad a cap with a rating significantly higher than the surge tank cap will have, so that the radiator mounted cap will not open before the surge tank cap." This seems more geared towards those running a surge tank AND a puke tank, so that you don't dump coolant on the ground out of the rad overflow before the extra overflow has a chance to collect it. Since I'm not running an overflow tank it doesn't really apply to me.

I modified the diagram to match my setup:

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Draining the ancient gas inside. You don't have to try very hard to smell this photo. Both tanks were completely full and unfortunately the Philips headed screws fastening the body covers under the tanks seem to be frozen completely solid, so removal of the tanks will have to wait. No harm in leaving them in place for now. When I get around to removing them, if they're in good shape, I may list them for sale.

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Randoms shots installing the catch can, cooling system/heater hoses, and general engine bay. I took off the compressor cover to allow easier access while installing the turbo oil drain, which is an extended 4" 10AN and drains into the pan above the oil level.











Exhaust is done, painted and wrapped. Full 3" up to the stock catback (resonators and mufflers) with a cutout dumping by the oil pan.

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Removing the stock fuel pump, filter, and other ancillaries from the trunk well.







The old trunk mats/carpets left a fine furr all over everything, so I vacuumed it out to clean it up a bit.



Spilled a bit of gas disconnecting the old lines, so some ventilation to clear it up:



New fuel cell mocked up - I made some straps to bolt it right to the trunk floor with some foam mat to insulate it from direct contact. It's a 20 gallon cell with a flat bottom (no sump), 0-90ohm sender and -8AN outlets throughout. Fuel will be 93 pump to start and once I get the car up and running, I'll start to introduce ethanol.





The top of the cell sits below the lip of the trunk side, so I'll make up a new cargo cover to allow the trunk to be used. For anyone lamenting the loss of the spare tire, none of my other cars (mostly BMWs) have had spares. This is not a daily driver for me anyhow, so the likelihood of needing one is very low.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Is anyone else having trouble seeing the pictures? Looks like you made a lot or progress, but for some reason I can't see any pics.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I can see them.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

So can I...

Andrew