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Does GM do any upgrading to that rebuilt 65e? I went with a new 65e, but the max HP is below the LS3's 430 hp rating. Sometimes i wish id gotten the 70e, but its holding up fine so far.
As far as I know, it's just a GM reman unit, same as any other. Max torque on the trans comes in just above engine peak torque output. And they do warranty the E-ROD Connect N' Cruise system for up to 3 years so here's hoping the engineers know what they're doing. I would think they'd avoid a trans they know is going to crap out when they have to pay for it. But who knows. Probably a good idea to avoid drag slicks and prepped surfaces with this combo
That was my big concern on the trans, but i guess if im not flooring it im well below its max rating. That is the recommended trans though, so GM/engineers probably do know a thing or two.
Is it 3 yrs now? I only got two and the warranty started from the date of purchase. Minus the 7 months it took to finish it. That left me with 1yr, 5 mths, well its way beyond that now anyway.
@James Lipman and @84/89, what air intakes did you use? I bought a SIKKY LS3 intake bc it fit the description in the manual, but I recently realized it doesn't have any PCV connections.
Speaking of which, I'm reading the PCV install instructions for the 15th time and I'm really confused about what connects to where and what needs to be connected to the intake. Any tips or pics avail?
I used siliconeintakes.com for the tubing, clamps and elbow. The intake was a straight piece and a 90 degree elbow that i cut and welded to fit. I drilled a hole to weld a fresh air elbow. Then bent some aluminum tubing to go between the valve cover/air tube .
There are two possible choices for pvc, both are on the valve covers. I used the pass side and left the cap on the driver valve cover. The fresh air tube (intake) has to be after the maf. Well, here's a pic instead.
I used to do that with an astro van. They handle fairly well on stock wheels too. BTW, i replied to your previous post yesterday, but apparently it takes an eternity for a post to show up when you attach a pic to it.
I used siliconeintakes.com for the tubing, clamps and elbow. The intake was a straight piece and a 90 degree elbow that i cut and welded to fit. I drilled a hole to weld a fresh air elbow. Then bent some aluminum tubing to go between the valve cover/air tube .
There are two possible choices for pvc, both are on the valve covers. I used the pass side and left the cap on the driver valve cover. The fresh air tube (intake) has to be after the maf. Well, here's a pic instead.
Thanks for this! Question... by leaving the cap on, do you just mean the little red caps on the crate motor during shipping, or did you install something more secure?
I used a rubber cap I think came with the engine. I wouldn't use those plastic caps. They look a little flimsy.
Yeah, that's why I was surprised when you said you left the cap on. I'm sure I'll find the rubber cap if it was included, or find something else if not. Thanks!
I used the stock air filter and a combination bits from two different low-rent eBay intake systems. The pipework is polished aluminum, the filter is bright red, and the whole thing looks super trashy. I should paint it black.
Last edited by James Lipman; 02-23-2022 at 11:22 PM.
This was before the swap was complete - there's a bit of stray wiring towards the back left of the plenum, and a few other bits and pieces out of place. I still haven't hooked up the AC lines.
Last edited by James Lipman; 02-23-2022 at 11:24 PM.
Reason: Additional info
Just curious, do you plan on upgrading the rear drums to disc?
Drums to disks in a B-body is really not 'all that'. The bias on the brakes are so heavily 'slanted' towards the front brakes, that the rear brakes do almost no work at all.
02-08-2022, 06:51 PM
