When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Great job Michael, car/install looks great. I was told the same thing by some, but when i spoke to the friendly ref. He insisted any engine change requires a visit, regardless and this was back in 2015.
Crossed 3,600 miles on the drivetrain this week. Thinking about maybe doing a follow-up article/video about dialing things in. If anyone has any questions, do let me know.
Still chasing some squeaks and rattles, but the steering and suspension are on point now (outside of chassis flex). And just yesterday, I wired in a toggle switch to test out the transmission controller's "Performance" tune, haha.
@84/89 did you connect a switch to the blue a/b wire on the transmission harness? Any thoughts on the Street vs Performance programming?
Also, do you have a catch can setup? Wondering what route and fittings to use.
Going on 8300 worry free miles. Yes, i wired up the A/B circuit. The difference is quite noticeable. Especially on the 1-2 shift, basically it just shifts harder, but you can also play with the line pressure/shift points/converter lock -up, etc with the CD software, you can create a file and save it too. I played around with that for several months, but eventually just went back to the stock settings, but still use B mode occasionally.
My catch can is connected to the PCV ports by the passenger side head w/ the little ribbed U shaped tube. I made a bracket to hold the can and used some left over braided hose. For the fittings i used the same type as are on the ribbed tube. I think i had a vapor line lying around w/ the same style OE fittings.
Going on 8300 worry free miles. Yes, i wired up the A/B circuit. The difference is quite noticeable. Especially on the 1-2 shift, basically it just shifts harder, but you can also play with the line pressure/shift points/converter lock -up, etc with the CD software, you can create a file and save it too. I played around with that for several months, but eventually just went back to the stock settings, but still use B mode occasionally.
My catch can is connected to the PCV ports by the passenger side head w/ the little ribbed U shaped tube. I made a bracket to hold the can and used some left over braided hose. For the fittings i used the same type as are on the ribbed tube. I think i had a vapor line lying around w/ the same style OE fittings.
Yeah, the Street tune seems better for stop and go; Performance for environments that have more room. I like the way it's quicker to down-shift. In the Street/base tune, I'd have to do a full almost-WOT-blip to get a quick reliably downshift, hahhaha.
RE: PVC. Did you hook up the driver's side port too, or just the driver's side one that -- when there isn't a catch can -- loops back into the intake?
Now I just need to figure out what type of quick connectors these are, and how to smuggle a can into the state lol
Not the driver side, just left the rubber cap on that one, pass valve cover (red arrow). Using that for the fresh air tube.
I mean the two ports, one on the intake, other on valley cover (yellow). There's a valve of sorts on the valley cover port for PCV function
.
Not the driver side, just left the rubber cap on that one, pass valve cover (red arrow). Using that for the fresh air tube.
I mean the two ports, one on the intake, other on valley cover (yellow). There's a valve of sorts on the valley cover port for PCV function
.
Yeah, I was hoping to run both the yellow-out AND the driver's side into one can and then back into the yellow-in. I just don't know what size the ports are so i can order quick connects.
Your work with hoses is so impressive and OEM-style. I am, as always, in awe.
Thanks for the complements, appreciated. Ports look around 1/4 or 3/8, but Im not 100% what size they are. I got mine off some old evap vacuum line. They're the exact same as on that little ribbed tube. You could always buy that tube on ebay or amazon for the fittings to use. I also swear ive seen them available thru the "help" line at the parts stores. Maybe even from dorman too. The ones on the evap solenoid look like they'd fit too
I took a look and they look like 3/8. I tried the fitting ribbed tube on the purge solenoid ports and its too big for the solenoid. The tube ports look very much the same size as the fuel line.
ohhhh, good to know thanks. Mine are currently buried under all the extra wiring harness for the throttle body and map sensor, hahaha, so i was hoping to avoid digging them out.
Glad to help. I eventually tucked all the extra wiring back into the loom and put the loom down by the fuel injectors. Another peeve was why GM put the evap solenoid on the pass head when the ports on the TB are on the dr. side.
Ugh, I got a code reader in to write a review, and it turns out the wagon is running lean on both banks -- P0171 - 00, P0174 - 00 -- although no check engine light was thrown.
Heading to Guaranty Chevy tomorrow for a smoke test to see if they can find a vacuum leak someplace. Pray for my wallet.
Hmmm, Just went thru this. After i checked all sorts of things. I ended swapping the intake gaskets and the TB gasket. Codes went away.
Guaranty Chevrolet in Santa Ana? Are you in OC? Im in irvine. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...0174-w-ld.html
Hmmm, Just went thru this. After i checked all sorts of things. I ended swapping the intake gaskets and the TB gasket. Codes went away.
Guaranty Chevrolet in Santa Ana? Are you in OC? Im in irvine. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...0174-w-ld.html
Yeah, Guaranty in Santa Ana. I'm in Hawthorne (about 40 mins away from them), but they were my partners on the build, and I trust that they'll have the right techs do the diagnosis. I dropped the wagon off yesterday and went to Disneyland. Guaranty is going to do a smoke test on Monday and look at the codes/live data. I told them about your gasket swap helping. Also told them that my HVAC system, which runs the blend doors on a vacuum, is connected to the LS3 intake's NPP port next to the brake booster port. I wish I knew enough about reading OBD2 scanner data to proceed with my own diagnosis, but do not at the moment.
Curious to see what the diagnosis is. Hopefully, nothing serious. From what i read its usually them gaskets. You got your car in just in time to beat the rains too.
Curious to see what the diagnosis is. Hopefully, nothing serious. From what i read its usually them gaskets. You got your car in just in time to beat the rains too.
Welp... just heard from the dealership. They think they've solved the issue, but are just going to re-test and confirm this afternoon.
Good news, nothing serious.
Annoying part. My fresh air hose running to the air intake was the incorrect diameter and -- somewhere in these last 2 years and 3800 miles -- started letting unmetered air in after the mass air flow sensor. Easy enough mistake to make, one that I would be happy to admit as a newbie builder. BUT what I find frustrating is that I used the Chevy-supplied-hose that was included with this $580 Chevy Performance Parts air intake... which means if CPP had included the correct size hose, this wouldn't have happened and I wouldn't have had to pay for this $470 smoke test.
Thankful for the smart techs at Guaranty Chevy, though, for following the data and doing some great diagnosis work on a custom build.
So the hose is too large and allowing too much air past the MAF causing the lean condition? Did it the hose wear out and loosen over time? Or is there another issue still? Glad it wasn't serious.
This reminds me of my ECU in my connect and cruise kit. Turned out it was the non legal version. Didn't know this until i took it in for the "free" learn procedure. Dealer had to send it back to GM to reprogram, upon return dealer charges me $425. When i said that ecu is what shoulda come with the kit and i had paid for that when i purchased said kit. They just told me they wouldn't give me my car if i didn't pay the bill.
So the hose is too large and allowing too much air past the MAF causing the lean condition? Did it the hose wear out and loosen over time? Or is there another issue still? Glad it wasn't serious.
This reminds me of my ECU in my connect and cruise kit. Turned out it was the non legal version. Didn't know this until i took it in for the "free" learn procedure. Dealer had to send it back to GM to reprogram, upon return dealer charges me $425. When i said that ecu is what shoulda come with the kit and i had paid for that when i purchased said kit. They just told me they wouldn't give me my car if i didn't pay the bill.
1. That's terrible, I'm sorry you experienced that. Did you try to resolve it with Chevy Performance or just bite the bullet?
2. Also, to make sure we're talking about the same thing.... from your system as an example...
Unmetered air was getting in post-MAF via the fresh air tube because CPP included a 1/2" hose, not 3/8". And it was running ever so slightly lean (not enough to fire the CEL/MIL), but enough that the computer was struggling to compensate in the fuel trims.
I suspect that the hose was snug at the beginning (I did use clamps as well) but the rubber may have softened up over time and/or the clamps (also supplied by chevy) may have loosened up a bit as well. Still, it's annoying that the hose isn't sized properly.
1. I just bit the bullet...eventually. I tried to get a hold of customer service at GM, but couldn't find a number or email to rant to. So i just let it go.
2. Yes, that's what i was thinking. The fresh air connector after the MAF. I flared the ends of the hard line for extra grip. These OBII systems are really sensitive to the smallest deviations. I could hardly see any wear on my intake gaskets when i removed them, but they were past their prime.
How does the hose connect to the intake? IS there a fitting? Is it on the elbow or the straight piece? Is the straight piece not aluminum?
06-23-2023, 10:28 PM
