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LS3 Swap Alternator Wiring Question

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Old Jun 30, 2022 | 12:13 PM
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Question LS3 Swap Alternator Wiring Question

First post on the forum, so thank you all in advance! I am currently swapping an '11 Camaro SS LS3 into a '54 corvette. I recently bought a brand new wiring harness for it from GM and everything connects as expected except the alternator. The old harness and alternator have a smaller connector/plug with two wires (one red and one white) and the new wiring harness has a larger connector/plug has only one wire (red). The new connector/plug does not fit into the alternator. In order to use the current alternator I was hoping to splice the wires and connect the old connector/plug to the new wiring harness using just the old red wire but I'm unsure of what to do with the white wire or if this will cause issues since its obviously it was wired differently from the factory. I've googled my fingers off and haven't found a solution other than replacing the alternator that accepts the new connector/plug. Any advice or feedback would be welcome and appreciated, thanks!

Attached are some visuals of my issue:

Alternator

Old plug/connector

New plug/connector

New plug/connector

Wiring harness info
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Old Jul 1, 2022 | 02:11 AM
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Anyone going help this guy?
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Old Jul 1, 2022 | 02:42 AM
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https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/page...path=4&pID=108

Reference info for DR37 / DR44 alternator in that article. You can just remove the PWM control wire and alternator will default to 13.8V charging which is completely fine. Basically it'll act like an old school alternator with a flat compensated regulator. Part numbers for connectors are in the article.
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Old Jul 1, 2022 | 02:54 AM
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I think those part numbers are service pigtails that you have to splice into your harness. I don't recognize that style of connector, but if you can figure it out then you will be able to find the actual connector body, seals, and terminals at Mouser.com and do a really clean install without any splicing. (Cut off the terminals from your wire and crimp on the new terminals and assemble into connector body.)
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Old Jul 1, 2022 | 03:07 AM
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Looks like the connector is a Bosch design. Google part number BWAP0031 and you'll find part kits for sale. Ballenger Motorsports might have it (by a different part number) if you call them.

Last edited by QwkTrip; Jul 1, 2022 at 03:15 AM.
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Old Jul 1, 2022 | 02:04 PM
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Thanks for help this guy. I think I’ll need this info soon for my junk.
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Old Jul 5, 2022 | 06:56 PM
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Thanks QwkTrip!
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Old Jul 6, 2022 | 12:04 AM
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Just removing the wires produces 13.7 volts, but that's not a reasonable voltage to charge a battery correctly. Here is information on the 2 wire alternator 2-pin-2006-alternator-don-t-throw-away
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Old Jul 7, 2022 | 01:54 AM
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The alternator in your picture is a 2 wire PWM controlled, newer styled, alternator. The ECM or Body module that used to connect to the 2 wire connector used a 5V PWM to control it.

The 4 pin connector in your picture is actually for an older style alternator that does not use PWM to control the alternator.

If you bought an ECM and harness to control a 2011 LS3 engine, it should have come with a 2 pin alternator connector. The real question is what is your PCM? Is it expecting to control the older or the newer alternator?
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Old Jul 7, 2022 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by LSswap
Just removing the wires produces 13.7 volts, but that's not a reasonable voltage to charge a battery correctly.
That is normal for a flat compensated regulator. It's still done this way in the heavy duty diesel world. It's not ideal, but it's okay.
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