I'm either doing something very stupid or I am incredibility unlucky.

Transmission 1. I had the transmission repaired by a local shop before Covid hit. I installed it but made no attempt to start car until this year. When attempting to move car I found I have no drive, no reverse, nothing. Car would not move. Unfortunately the shop that repaired this transmission went out of business during Covid.

Transmission 2. Ordered from JEGS. Unfortunately it sit uninstalled for more than 6 months due to life getting in the way. Now I have the same problem with transmission 2. No drive, car won't move either reverse or drive.

Engine is a 2018 LS3 GM crate 430HP purchased new in 2018. Torque converter for a 2006 GTO purchased from GM for Transmission #2. Engine/transmission controller is from Speartech.

The only code is P0333. The car does not have an exhaust system. Only headers.

As I recall there was around 1/4" movement between torque converter and flexplate. I did think it was strange that it took very little transmission fluid to show full on trans dipstick considering JEGS said the transmission shipped with no fluid. I did prefill the torque converter before installing.

I have heard that the 4L series of transmissions will go into reverse or drive without a computer and I unplugged the connection at the transmission and it made no difference.

Can anyone think of something that I am overlooking?

 

Typical 4L60E will take about 13 quarts of trans fluid if empty after a rebuild.

 

How much trans fluid did you put in each transmission? As mentioned above the 4l60 will need between 9-14 qts of fluid depending on combination of pan depth and converter size

 

Transmission 2 - About 3 QTS. I prefilled the TC with about a QT. Then added about 2 QTS before both holes in dipstick showed fluid.

Transmission 1 - Too long ago, but it was at least 3 gals. This transmission failed in my GTO after about 50 miles. I then had it rebuilt to use in my 77 Cadillac.

 

Although I had checked the level multiple times and it showed over full. I decided to check fluid level again. Showed low. Added more fluid. Now the car moves.

The dipstick seems difficult to read. I think its picking up fluid on the bends of the tube making it look like it has more fluid than it does.

However I have only added about 7 QTS total. I don't think the transmission was as empty as JEGS said since a fair amount of fluid spilled out the tailshaft while I was installing the transmission.

 

It can be a little tricky trying to figure out the dipstick situation. I mean it's a little late now, but I ALWAYS mark the stick by hand, with a file, and the bottom of the china rail now after making sure the tube is seated all the way, this ensures "full", is really "full".
Next, as you add fluid, it will become definite when it's actually on the full line, you will start to see the difference, add a little at a time, check it running and hot, keep doing this, add a pint at a time. Make sure once it's full, go and manually shift it through the gears before even moving it. Once it's full like that, then take it for a quick block drive, check again another 2-3 times, and see how it is.

 

Yep, I learned the hard way, you have to mark the dipstick with the pan off, even if its supposed to match the trans,
My 4l65e with a dorman pan took a solid 13 to get to the full mark, unfortunately it only had 9 in it initially because my dipstick was too long.
about 50 miles ruined the 3-4 clutch/drum/disks..

At least it wasn't a new performa built.

 

Agree with the others: With the dipstick installed, you want to drop the pan and scribe a line even with the pan to trans mating surface, that is your full mark. You are filling with it running, and running it through the gears a few times to allow all the fluid passages to fill up?

You are certain your have the correct torque converter, and you installed it correctly? Verified with the correct converter pads to bellhousing face measurement? OR at least the correct number of clunks?

You measured the clearance between the converter mounting pads and the flexplate, and used spacers if needed? (Usually going to need at least 0.12" and no more than 0.188" or so.

 

At this point, I would suggest getting a helper, pull the cooler lines, put them in a bucket, and crank it over/ fire it for a couple seconds and see if you have fluid pressure. I'm guessing you don't. I'd guess the converter wasn't all the way in, and it probably broke the pump.

 

I got it running, ended up putting about 11 QTS in a little at a time. Dipstick would show full. Stop engine wait, crank and check again. Showed low, added more, repeat many times. My GTO swap did not give me this type or trouble. I think the long dipstick with its curved tube makes checking very difficult. It seems to take a very long time for the fluid to drain enough so I can check the level.

Haven't done any driving other than the 300 feet from my basement to garage. I don't even know if it would shift into second. But for now reverse and 1st is good enough to load it on a trailer and take it 300 miles to my retirement home. Can't really drive it on street around here, open headers, no exhaust system and the road I live on is a divided 4 lane so I can't take it for a short drive down the street and back.

 

Is the vent on the case open? If the vent isn't clear it can cause filling issues and when driving it can cause fluid to be expelled up through the fill tube