CaptKaos' 2011 S197 LS Swap
Anyone need an operational V6 Mustang drivetrain, LOL
I ended up using the EPAS and main LCA bolts from the Factory Crossmember. The EPAS has a 3rd bolt but the factory 3 bolt won't go in the AJE opening and there is not bolt short enough or big enough. I may just open this up on the AJE and go find a nut since the factory nut is welded to the K-member.
The last 2 pictures show the 3rd hole and the corresponding bracket on the AJE. The only bolts I have left from AJE are in the motor mount pics. And I am going to end up cutting the back part of those off...
I have a T56 but I can't get my daughter to let me put a manual in the car now.
Also need to figure out the Heater Core hoses to the LS, If it is possible to mount the factory AC to the LS or if I need to swap, and if there is an adapter to go from the Ford Trans fittings to AN, or a way to run new lines for the trans.
Found this link on the internet for the S197 car information : https://iihs.net/fsm/ and it confirmed the 85lb/ft for the K-member and I will be comparing the info there to the GM Truck pedal and will post my findings. Worse case is I just put the GM pedal in the car.
vs
GM 2006 DBW pedal from https://www.lt1swap.com/pictures/03...ata Sensors - Electronic Throttle Control.gif
Based on what I am looking at this looks like it could potentially work.
Back to the Mustang
Weekend of September 16, 2022: Scrounging around looking at the old K-member I found that the lower control arm bolts had a nut on them that would perfectly fit the 3rd bolt for the power steering mount. I had to open up the hole in the AJE crossmember and only the bottom is bolted but it now has a bolt in it now (nut not pictured but it is in there)
In addition to this I got the EPAS wiring harness from Casey at Racecar Services to solve the Electric power steering issues.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
This is where things get interesting... The following night I planned to reinstall the valve train (rockers and pushrods) to check for pushrod length an when rotating the motor over, it would ONLY move 90 degrees. Since it was late I decided to call it a night and pull the pan the next day. The evening we pulled the pan to see if we left something out of place that would keep it from turning over. We ended up pulling everything oil pan related off. Still wouldn't turn. The next evening we pulled the timing cover, with no solution and since it wasn't on an engine stand was proved to be fruitless to determine what the problem was we called it an evening. Since I work in IT and my oncall rotation would tie me up with a project this was delayed for the next weekend.
We spent a good time discovering this as I wanted my daughter to understand the logic around what was going on. After some evaluation we concluded that the number 2 cylinder (front left looking into the engine bay) was the culprit as it wasn't making it past the same point.
So we pulled the passenger side head to see what the issue was. Keeping is mind this was a pullout motor, that I have had for 11 years that has always been stored inside a conditioned garage... When we got the head off this is what I discovered. Moisture in the cylinder caused some surface rust to appear and a stack of crud was piled above the piston. I sprayed some Liquid Wrench in and scuffed it with a Scotchbrite pad and much of it came off. (see Third picture) We were able to turn the motor over but it still had rust in it.
So I filled it up to the edge in vinegar and let it soak for 12 hours. The last pictures shows the Vinegar in the hole.. The last two picture are after I went down and checked on it 1 hour later.
I started looking for a shorter Selector shaft since this one was way too long.
Searched all over the internet for a 4L80E/4l60E install in a S197 and found nothing.
The Transmission is NOT straight centered at this point. I ordered a digital angle gauge so I can set the engine/trans as the same angle as the pinion, which should get me past that area and I plan to just pound some clearance in. At this point (on this day) I am able to removed and install the trans (with 4 bolts no converter bolts) in about 20 minutes, so I am confident if I can get it above that reinforcement plate I will be golden if/when I will need to remove it.
In addition I found the following information:
Heater lines: ford and gm flip the line sizes on the in and out of the hearer core, so it is not as simple as hooking the 5/8 line to the 5/8 fitting on the water pump.
The 5/8 out of the core will go in to the 3/4 on the LS pump.
The radiator is the ford racing for the stock 4.6 that was in the car .
The lower factory hose will need to have the t removed and it should hook right up.
Factory radiator is upper passenger side lower driver. The lower hose an oem 08 4.6 should fit
So I ordered a LS1 Water pump and spacers and a straight Tstat housing.
Last edited by Captkaos; Jan 25, 2023 at 01:10 AM.

