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I am getting ready to make a new upper and lower radiator support for my LS swap 07 mustang. I am running a radiator with a non-pressurized overflow catch can. Typically, the fill point of the radiator should be above the engine's highest coolant point, and we see this with degas tanks, etc., in modern vehicles. With the setup I am running, do I need to be sure the top of the radiator is above the coolant in the heads? Does the steam line system that LS motors use make any difference regarding this? I have a Meziere electric WP.
Yes, ideally the steam vent should exit above the water line at the highest point of the system. If this is not possible you can buy a pressurized "Swirl pot".
Or... just fake it. I've plumbed them back into the water pump and even just burped the system well and blocked them off. This is not ideal, but I had no issues overheating so take it for what its worth. The importance of a functioning steam vent system depends on your application IMHO. On a non-turbo super mild street build... prob not super important. On an all out drag forced induction deal... I'd want it working well.
On my LS swaps I've used a few different solutions for the steam line.
My 98 Wrangler I plumbed into the water pump. 15 years on the swap no issues.
My 73 Camaro I plumbed into the upper radiator hose. You can just see the splice in the upper radiator hose. Again no issues.
Current 80 Camaro plumbed into the radiator just below the upper radiator hose. No issues.
As said above the important thing is to get all the air out of the system.
Nice! Thanks! Basically, I will try to have it re-enter as high as possible, maybe an adapter with 1/8 npt right near the radiator, or even drill and tap the radiator for it. I have a coolant vacuum fill tool and will use that when I fill the system.
I like that black radiator cover you have! Might have to make something similar for my car.
If you read up on the whole theory of operation and design you want small diameter tubing on the front vents only. Thats why GM did away with rear vents. Whole idea is to keep velocity way up so it can "scrape" air bubbles out of the awkward tiny "nooks and crannies" in the head. When you have opposition to flow by plumbing it into a high pressure area or and area with back flow, it defeats the purpose. Same deal with using -6 or other huge aftermarket line kits. It kills velocity and basically makes it all work poorly.
Like I said tho... you can block the damn things off and it will still "work". Def not gonna implode your engine without a steam vent.