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I've been working on this for some time, but I have just about finished up with adapting an LS1 PCM and harness to run my 408 windsor engine. Havent started it yet, still have a bunch of other stuff to do. PCM is out of an 02 Firebird, and the harness was a cheap Amazon harness that I had. I ordered a used 02 firebird underhood fuse box, as well as a cruise control module. I also happen to have a junk 2000 Tahoe sitting in my yard that I've been pillaging small things from, but here's some pics of it all so far if anyone is interested.
I also happen to have a junk 2000 Tahoe sitting in my yard that I've been pillaging small things from, but here's some pics of it all so far if anyone is interested.
Could you tell us more of how you adapted the 24x reluctor and sensor to the front of the engine?
Sure. I started with the wheel. First I had to find TDC on the wheel, then put my engine at TDC on cylinder #5 (LS cylinder #1). Since I had to machine a spacer for my serpentine kit, I cut a shoulder on the spacer for the wheel to press onto with the recommended interference fit (I think it was like .005" to .007"). Then I made a mark on both so that they would be indexed once installed. I positioned the TDC of the wheel where it would point at my old timing pointer, then I put the wheel in an oven at about 450 for like 15 minutes. While that was heating I prepped the spacer and put some loctite sleeve retaining compound on the shoulder where the wheel will go and got everything setup in the press. Quickly, I took the wheel out of the oven, set it in the press bed and pressed in the spacer, and let it cool.
As for the sensor itself, I used one of the older 454 24x sensors due to how it's made. The LS one sits in the block at a bit of an angle (not really a big deal, the bracket can be twisted), and the tab as you know sticks out to the front. The 24x sensor is a dual track sensor, so orientation matters. Flipping it around would result in a no start condition as it would be interpreting the wheel backwards. This is why I chose the other style. Plug faces up as does the tab. I started with an existing crank trigger bracket setup for a SBF and cut the mounting ears off that a screw in pickup would have gone in, and welded on a block of aluminum that I had cut and drilled for the sensor to fit. Once it was welded on, I was able to shim via washers, the bracket itself and the sensor in order to get it centered over the wheel and get the airgap right. Once everything was done, I had to drill additional holes in the wheel to neutral balance it.
Since the pcm relies only on a simple digital 12v on and off signal from the cam sensor to know what stroke the engine is on (compression or exhaust), I found out that the ford EDIS system on the older 5.0 found in explorers produced the same signal. One of the great things about the 24x system is that if it loses cam signal, the start strategy will attempt the firing sequence on either stroke until the engine fires. I still wanted a cam signal though. I had to make my own cam sync since one was never produced for the 351w engines. A combination of 2 separate ones, one from the 5.0 and a 3.8 engine did the trick.
There you go, that's the jist of how I got the big stuff adapted. And before anyone else asks, no the firing sequence needed no changes whatsoever. While the firing "order" is different between OE's, the actual firing SEQUENCE is exactly the same between the 2 engines. I had to draw this out on paper in order for it to make sense to me at first.
Sure. I started with the wheel. First I had to find TDC on the wheel, then put my engine at TDC on cylinder #5 (LS cylinder #1). Since I had to machine a spacer for my serpentine kit, I cut a shoulder on the spacer for the wheel to press onto with the recommended interference fit (I think it was like .005" to .007"). Then I made a mark on both so that they would be indexed once installed. I positioned the TDC of the wheel where it would point at my old timing pointer, then I put the wheel in an oven at about 450 for like 15 minutes. While that was heating I prepped the spacer and put some loctite sleeve retaining compound on the shoulder where the wheel will go and got everything setup in the press. Quickly, I took the wheel out of the oven, set it in the press bed and pressed in the spacer, and let it cool.
As for the sensor itself, I used one of the older 454 24x sensors due to how it's made. The LS one sits in the block at a bit of an angle (not really a big deal, the bracket can be twisted), and the tab as you know sticks out to the front. The 24x sensor is a dual track sensor, so orientation matters. Flipping it around would result in a no start condition as it would be interpreting the wheel backwards. This is why I chose the other style. Plug faces up as does the tab. I started with an existing crank trigger bracket setup for a SBF and cut the mounting ears off that a screw in pickup would have gone in, and welded on a block of aluminum that I had cut and drilled for the sensor to fit. Once it was welded on, I was able to shim via washers, the bracket itself and the sensor in order to get it centered over the wheel and get the airgap right. Once everything was done, I had to drill additional holes in the wheel to neutral balance it.
Since the pcm relies only on a simple digital 12v on and off signal from the cam sensor to know what stroke the engine is on (compression or exhaust), I found out that the ford EDIS system on the older 5.0 found in explorers produced the same signal. One of the great things about the 24x system is that if it loses cam signal, the start strategy will attempt the firing sequence on either stroke until the engine fires. I still wanted a cam signal though. I had to make my own cam sync since one was never produced for the 351w engines. A combination of 2 separate ones, one from the 5.0 and a 3.8 engine did the trick.
There you go, that's the jist of how I got the big stuff adapted. And before anyone else asks, no the firing sequence needed no changes whatsoever. While the firing "order" is different between OE's, the actual firing SEQUENCE is exactly the same between the 2 engines. I had to draw this out on paper in order for it to make sense to me at first.
Thank you for the detailed write up. Does the serpentine system you have require the aluminum spacer regardless? I have a 93 Mustang that I've wanted to do this to for simplicity in tuning (I do have the chip burning equipment), but also for the diagnostics that are offered with an OBD2 system.
The crank pulley attaches directly to the balance in my case:
So I do not see a way of attaching the reluctor wheel in the same way you did.
Do you by change still have the reluctor wheel inner hole dimensions?
Thank you for the detailed write up. Does the serpentine system you have require the aluminum spacer regardless? I have a 93 Mustang that I've wanted to do this to for simplicity in tuning (I do have the chip burning equipment), but also for the diagnostics that are offered with an OBD2 system.
The crank pulley attaches directly to the balance in my case:
So I do not see a way of attaching the reluctor wheel in the same way you did.
Do you by change still have the reluctor wheel inner hole dimensions?
Yes my system required the spacer for proper pulley alignment. Originally it was about an inch thick but after mock up I found it needed to be half an inch. I dont have the i.d. recorded. I started with a basic stock reluctor at first but ended up spending the money and got a howards billet one piece wheel and measured the i.d. with a t gauge and mic.
Have you looked into the EDIS setup in the explorers? The balancer for those had a wheel on it, not the right one for what your trying to do, but it could potentially be replaced with a 24x wheel. Alternatively, you could make a spacer plate to fit inside of the 24x reluctor that matches the bolt pattern of the balancer, then machine that thickness off of the balancer face (just the portion the bolts go through).
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LS1 controlled SBF??? 
