L76 with AR5 into a 1971 C10
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L76 with AR5 into a 1971 C10 There's not a ton of info (that I've found anyway) on adding a manual behind the 6.0L L76.
I have a drivetrain pulled from a running but wrecked 2008 G8 GT.
I'd like to use this engine in a 1971 C10 build, and I'm looking to mate it to an AR5 5-speed out of a 2006 Colorado.
I can use an adaptor plate from Fabot (or others) along with the 4L60e bellhousing to manage the marriage part.
What I'm not finding is anything solid recommending a flywheel or clutch package for the L76.
I do see that a 2006 GTO with the 6.0L "may" offer what I need, but can't really cross-reference this since the L76 G8's were all 6L80e's and never came as a manual.
Any advice, or recommended research options?
Thanks
I have a drivetrain pulled from a running but wrecked 2008 G8 GT.
I'd like to use this engine in a 1971 C10 build, and I'm looking to mate it to an AR5 5-speed out of a 2006 Colorado.
I can use an adaptor plate from Fabot (or others) along with the 4L60e bellhousing to manage the marriage part.
What I'm not finding is anything solid recommending a flywheel or clutch package for the L76.
I do see that a 2006 GTO with the 6.0L "may" offer what I need, but can't really cross-reference this since the L76 G8's were all 6L80e's and never came as a manual.
Any advice, or recommended research options?
Thanks
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I appreciate the caution. When weeding through options, this was also my initial concern.
I've been through a lot of builds with the AR5 behind high horsepower engines, and have seen it abused brutally.
I don't plan on breaching 400 with this L76, and at 64 I'm a bit too old for abusing my stuff. I suspect from a strength perspective, I'll likely be okay with this choice.
My question is more what it takes to mechanically function properly, and mate the 2 with the proper supporting parts.
I already own the L76 (which I drove) and everything for it to run. So this is a cost and purpose effective option, assuming I can make them all synch.
I've been through a lot of builds with the AR5 behind high horsepower engines, and have seen it abused brutally.
I don't plan on breaching 400 with this L76, and at 64 I'm a bit too old for abusing my stuff. I suspect from a strength perspective, I'll likely be okay with this choice.
My question is more what it takes to mechanically function properly, and mate the 2 with the proper supporting parts.
I already own the L76 (which I drove) and everything for it to run. So this is a cost and purpose effective option, assuming I can make them all synch.
The fabbot adapter plate is designed around a LS1 clutch assembly, so anything 98-02 Camaro, C5 corvette or LS GTO will work. For 400ish HP, then a basic LuK LS3/7 clutch kit will be plenty, street friendly and budget friendly
One major drawback to the AR5 is the crappy gear ratios. 1st gear is very short. You can counter this by increasing the rear end ratio to something like 2.73, 3.08 etc
My previous colorado 5.3/AR5 swap, I often started in 2nd gear
One major drawback to the AR5 is the crappy gear ratios. 1st gear is very short. You can counter this by increasing the rear end ratio to something like 2.73, 3.08 etc
My previous colorado 5.3/AR5 swap, I often started in 2nd gear
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Thank you Pocket.
I was looking at the clutch/flywheel/TOB setup from an '06 GTO.
I'm just unsure about flywheel matching across the LS based platform.
Are they all balanced the same?
Are there "long and short" crankshaft issues like the earlier LQ9's?
I'm hoping to avoid buying a bunch of components that will simply not mate or work together.
Again, I'm looking for a reasonably reliable cruiser, not a bruiser...
I sold my last G8 GT about 2 years ago, and my feisty throttle days are about over. (I think..)
I'll be on a 29" rear tire, so I had sorta ballparked a rear gear in the 3.20-3.40 range (based on calculators).
I'm not super opposed to the useless 1st gear, but something numerically lower may be more appropriate given my intended use..Thanks.
I was looking at the clutch/flywheel/TOB setup from an '06 GTO.
I'm just unsure about flywheel matching across the LS based platform.
Are they all balanced the same?
Are there "long and short" crankshaft issues like the earlier LQ9's?
I'm hoping to avoid buying a bunch of components that will simply not mate or work together.
Again, I'm looking for a reasonably reliable cruiser, not a bruiser...
I sold my last G8 GT about 2 years ago, and my feisty throttle days are about over. (I think..)
I'll be on a 29" rear tire, so I had sorta ballparked a rear gear in the 3.20-3.40 range (based on calculators).
I'm not super opposed to the useless 1st gear, but something numerically lower may be more appropriate given my intended use..Thanks.
All LS are neutral balance
Any common clutch will be for the short flange cranks, which are 98% of the LS engines out there. Only two years of LQ4's an a very rare handful of 4.8's ever had long flanges
Later TR6060 clutches have extra height added to the flywheel to account for extra bellhousing length. These are model specific and limited to TR6060 cars with non-removable bellhousings. EX Late model camaros, CTS-Vs etc. Stick to the earlier LS1/2 etc and the clutches are much more universal
That GTO clutch will work. LS1, LS2, same piece
Get a slave for a 98-02 camaro V8. Avoid the painted black versions. Insteal, get the raw aluminum style with AP cast into the base. They're all reboxed parts made by two vendors. Just avoid the black one
Be sure the 4L60E bellhousing is for a V8 LS trans. The top most bolt hole is a dead giveaway. V6/SBC bellhousings do not have the upper bolt hole and are a different height. If in doubt post a picture of the one you have
Any common clutch will be for the short flange cranks, which are 98% of the LS engines out there. Only two years of LQ4's an a very rare handful of 4.8's ever had long flanges
Later TR6060 clutches have extra height added to the flywheel to account for extra bellhousing length. These are model specific and limited to TR6060 cars with non-removable bellhousings. EX Late model camaros, CTS-Vs etc. Stick to the earlier LS1/2 etc and the clutches are much more universal
That GTO clutch will work. LS1, LS2, same piece
Get a slave for a 98-02 camaro V8. Avoid the painted black versions. Insteal, get the raw aluminum style with AP cast into the base. They're all reboxed parts made by two vendors. Just avoid the black one
Be sure the 4L60E bellhousing is for a V8 LS trans. The top most bolt hole is a dead giveaway. V6/SBC bellhousings do not have the upper bolt hole and are a different height. If in doubt post a picture of the one you have
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Thank you Pocket!
That's very reassuring that this might all come together with less drama than I'd feared.
I own the correct 4L60e/LS bell already, so no worries there.
I see there are several options for the adaptor plate that others have used with success, with Fabot seeming to be the most popular (if somewhat more expensive).
The 2006 GTO flywheel and clutch kit do appear to be the least costly, and from reliable brands.
I'll likely look to a LUK TOB from your recommended applications.
(Or one of the raw aluminum "AB" models. I'm assuming you've a legitimate reason for highlighting this ..?)
I intend to check bell centering and TOB to plate finger clearance, shimming if need be.
There are actually a few few Colorada AR5's currently available near to me, pretty reasonably priced.
I believe I have both the clutch pedal and master figured out, but I may need to fab (or purchase) an adjustable rod and pedal stop.
I'll also need to work on a removable transmission crossmember.
That's very reassuring that this might all come together with less drama than I'd feared.
I own the correct 4L60e/LS bell already, so no worries there.
I see there are several options for the adaptor plate that others have used with success, with Fabot seeming to be the most popular (if somewhat more expensive).
The 2006 GTO flywheel and clutch kit do appear to be the least costly, and from reliable brands.
I'll likely look to a LUK TOB from your recommended applications.
(Or one of the raw aluminum "AB" models. I'm assuming you've a legitimate reason for highlighting this ..?)
I intend to check bell centering and TOB to plate finger clearance, shimming if need be.
There are actually a few few Colorada AR5's currently available near to me, pretty reasonably priced.
I believe I have both the clutch pedal and master figured out, but I may need to fab (or purchase) an adjustable rod and pedal stop.
I'll also need to work on a removable transmission crossmember.
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Verdad Gallardo I used fabbot on a colorado LS swap. It's a quality piece
For the TOB, it's such a cheap part, most people overlook it. Being a pain in the butt to pull the trans then bleed the system, it doesn't make sense to put one in that may only last a few weeks/months. It's a simple detail
For crossmember look up transdapt 6421
To adjust F/R, just redrill the frame holes. Up/dn, shim the rubber mount. Those old C10s have tons of room underneath, so exhaust clearance isn't a concern
If you end up needing a shifter, know options are limited. "Core" seems to be the main supplier for them
For the TOB, it's such a cheap part, most people overlook it. Being a pain in the butt to pull the trans then bleed the system, it doesn't make sense to put one in that may only last a few weeks/months. It's a simple detail
For crossmember look up transdapt 6421
To adjust F/R, just redrill the frame holes. Up/dn, shim the rubber mount. Those old C10s have tons of room underneath, so exhaust clearance isn't a concern
If you end up needing a shifter, know options are limited. "Core" seems to be the main supplier for them
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I've seen the CORE shifters before.
They are suprisingly proud of them, given the cost......
I figured when the time to locate the ball in space comes, I'd fab an adaptor and use one of the many Hurst mount knockoffs out there.
Or, Fabot has there own short throw (??) for quite a bit less.
Looks like the common .875" hole spacing many use for the arm mounts.
I already have a rear trailing arm crossmember with oversized cutouts for exhaust passage.
I'd like to keep it mostly within the frame height if possible, and this truck will be lowered somewhat.
I also have a transmission crossmember that appears to be very similar to that 6421. (Looked at it last night)
It's also designed for exhaust clearance. I'm confident I can make it work with a little modification.
They are suprisingly proud of them, given the cost......
I figured when the time to locate the ball in space comes, I'd fab an adaptor and use one of the many Hurst mount knockoffs out there.
Or, Fabot has there own short throw (??) for quite a bit less.
Looks like the common .875" hole spacing many use for the arm mounts.
I already have a rear trailing arm crossmember with oversized cutouts for exhaust passage.
I'd like to keep it mostly within the frame height if possible, and this truck will be lowered somewhat.
I also have a transmission crossmember that appears to be very similar to that 6421. (Looked at it last night)
It's also designed for exhaust clearance. I'm confident I can make it work with a little modification.