Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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LS1 with an old style push clitch

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Old 11-29-2004 | 04:58 PM
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Default LS1 with an old style push clutch

I used the search pretty thoroughly thinking I can't be the first to try this. I already have a new Tremec TKO and don't really want a T56. Is it possible to put that TKO behind an LS1? I looked but did not see a changeover bellhousing/flywheel/clutch assy. Maybe I am making more out of it then I need to, will the TKO bolt up to the stock LS1 bellhousing?

Last edited by dennis68; 11-29-2004 at 05:56 PM. Reason: spelling
Old 11-30-2004 | 07:23 AM
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I`ve just done exactly that - TKO 11 to LS1. Mcleod Industries do a modular bellhousing assembly which mate the 2 together (www.mcleodind.com). They also do all the clutch parts you require and although some people on the forum have difficulty in contacting Mcleod, I found them brilliant and I`m over in the UK!. The regular small block Chevy b/housing will fit but there is no locating dowell pin on the Ls1 block at the 12/1 o`clock position but that isn`t really a problem so long as you "dial-in" the b/housing assembly.
Once I received the assembly from Mcleod I realised that it was an SFI certified scatterproof b/housing which was a bonus. The LS1 has a recessed crank flange(ie it sits 1/4" closer to the block) so depending on which g/box or b/housing you have, you may need an extended pilot bush in the snout of the crank to reach out to the input shaft of the `box and if you use a conventional small block Chevy b/housing you almost certainly will need it.
Depending on what you order expect to pay $900 for b/housing, clutch,pilot bearing and $400 for the hydraulic release bearing to do away with release arms and/or cables etc etc.
Old 11-30-2004 | 08:44 AM
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Thanks Robert, what did you use for a hydraulic clutch? I am ASSuming a generic hydrulic throw-out bearing.
Old 11-30-2004 | 10:25 AM
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I used a complete hydraulic bearing assembly from Mcleod and again, some people are not happy with their service but they were good with me and gave lots of free advice. However their master and slave cylinder which I also bought is the weak link in the chain. It seemed to give a variable "bite" position on the clutch pedal so I swapped it for the one I`ve always used which is a Jaguar master and slave cylinder off any V12 Jag and the clutch now "feels" more consistent although this is without the engine running as I`m still wiring it in.




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