John B

iTrader: (10)

Yes, S&P makes a kit if you have a fat wallet. There is also the Fbodymotorsports option linked above.
$350 + $20 shipping and I've had zero issues in 3-1/2 years!

Remington H.

iTrader: (2)

I have a question about the elcamino ls1 swap. I know that these cars often have a hard time finding traction when they have any reasonable amount of hp. What I am wondering is if I did this swap, and used a complete corvette drivetrain. engine, rear tranny, irs. Would this help with the weight distribution and give some traction under hard acceleration with roughly 500hp? Also is the 80s elcamino a fullframe car? I thought it was but I am no expert when it comes to them, just curious.

Thanks,
Remington

VortecHater

The El Caminos are all full-frame cars. There was another fellow on this conversion board who has a Vette IRS setup available for sale. I asked him specifically what it would take to install one in an El Camino, he said that you need to install the Vette frame mounting points to the El Camino frame to install the Vette rear end, as the Vette setup is an independent rear and the El Camino uses a straight axle. Putting a Vette rear in place of a straight axle is going to take quite a bit of fab work.

Seems to me though, that someone might be able to make a straight axle conversion by building a custom pumpkin for a straight axle that you could slide the Vette transaxle into, then use straight axles instead of CV joint. This would simplify installing it in the car quite a bit, but I don't know how well the trans would like being on the unsprung side of the springs. You would probably have to use a slipshaft for the torque tube instead of a slipyoke like a normal RWD driveshaft, kinda like how the front shaft of a 4WD is. It may be a moot point if the trans can't handle the vibration and bumps it would be subjected to.

jdperk-86elco

http://www.artmorrison.com/maxg.htm

Art Morrison fabricates a MAX-G frame with C5 front end and Corvette IRS.

I am not sure how much it would cost but get it built and just drop the body on top.

DarthMonte

John B, I have an 85 MCSS I will be doing a 5.3/4l60e swap in this fall. I have read your website, but I can't find where you talk about gauges.

Did you use your existing gauges, use some sort of conversion box, or run new gauges? Can you give me a little detail on your gauge setup? I saw where you used the convertor for the speedo, did the rest of your stock gauges run fine from the new sensors?

Thanks, and your MCSS is what inspired me to convert mine.

John B

iTrader: (10)

The Cable-X box is required to make the speedo work properly, the Electronic Ratio Adapter by Abbott Enterprises is used for the tach, the oil pressure is conected to the new fitting above the oil filter using the OEM Monte Carlo oil sending output, water temp comes out of the new hole I drilled & tapped on the rear of the passenger side cylinder head and used the OEM Monte Carlo sending unit and the amp gauge comes off the rear of the alternator.

AWESOME, thanks!

jdperk-86elco

Hey guys,

I just picked up my LS1 and 4l60e transmission from SpearTech. John at SpearTech hooked me up with a complete turn key install. The wiring harness looks very simple to install. John started the LS1 up for me to hear before I hauled it home, and it ran sweet. The price included a Vette fuel pressure regulator, 90 degree intake tube with K&N filler. I can install and go with tweaking the little improvements after I get it drivable.

I will start the installation next weekend at least start the disassembly since I am still driving the car. I have some other questions maybe you guys can help me out.

I have ordered John Bzdel's oil pan and motor mounts, got a G-Force tranny crossmember coming, I have a 22 gal FI 1986 El Camino fuel tank on order, I have a FI sending unit ordered from gmpartsdirect, so I have most of the install figured out.

My A/C system is working flawlessly with the original compressor and R12 coolant. Will the LS1 compressor work with R12 or will its seals not be compatible? I want to suck my R12 out and reuse it or at least replace R12 back into my system after I fab my A/C hoses. If I go with S&P compressor and bracket instead of knotching my frame will their compressor work with R12?

I need to run new Tranny lines and set up fuel line connections. How did everyone else fab their lines? Meaning can I just buy 3/8" fuel line and fittings and make my own fuel and tranny coolant lines? Are there fitting kits I can buy with a flair tool?

I think this will not be as hard as I imagined because I think I have done my homework and know most of the solutions to the install. However you guys have any other information please pass it on.

Still need to solve my Speedometer issue since I am not going to run a cable and it will be a signal from the PCM I have to find a speedo to replace mine in the stock dash location. Any ideas?

James

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

For your AC i believe you will have to change all the seals in the compressor to use R12 I think John B. had a price for a seal kit listed in his install to do this.

For the tranny lines you should be able to use 3/8 line and a double flare tool, I haven`t seen a kit but www.jcw.com has them for about $25 plus 10 for double flare adaptors. I don`t think the LS1 uses a double flare on the fuel lines anywhere though. I was thinking of using the factory plastic flexible lines and then either having the correct end flared onto my steel hardline or cutting the factory flares off of hardlines at the junkyard and a connector to my frame line.

AS for the speedo uh not sure what to do. Someone said they were going to post plans for a converter box with a motor when they were done w/ their conversion but I haven`t seen them. No factory speedo seems like it would be an easy bolt in, early 90`s full size trucks use an 85 mph speedo but the numbers on the faces dont line up would require refacing the El Camino speedo, and the odometer is off across dash not in speedo. 97 olds cutlasses have the odometer in the speedo, looks like that would be an easier fit, but the odometer was above the needle with the trip below, and they go to 110 or 120mph so the El Camino face would still need to be redone. And I am not sure if either would be compatible with a LS1 VSS, plus both would have to be taken apart and the guts of the newer speedo mounted behind the El Camino face.

StickSS

Hi: How is your project going? Here is an Idea for you with your A/C. I don't know if it would work it might be worth a try. If you used John's A/C Bracket and if the Gbody and Lt1 compressor were the same size you could bolt up the stock G body compressor and use the AC lines from a 307 old's without modification. You could then get a junk LT1 compressor and just swap out the Clutch and Pully from one to the other. You would have to test it out first don't know if the shaft size and length are the same. You could then just recharge with R12 with no problem. For the Speedo Dixie Monte carlo sells white face plates for the speedo and guages and a recalibrated 140 mile speedo. Tennesee Auto sponser and S and P non sponser sell the six bolt to 4 bolt tailhousing adapter to use a mechanical speedo from a 700 R4 on the L460E Tranny. Be aware it is expensive about 300-400 bucks. This might be a way to go since I don't think you will find an electronic speedo to fit right in. Good Luck?

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

this is a common solution for the mechanical speedo problem...

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/in...?v=1&pid=17491

$299.... its a converter box that takes the VSS (that the PCM NEEDS btw) and spins the cable to match...

StickSS

Hey JDperk: What are you using for Headers or exhaust manifolds? Has any one tried the 98-99 corvette center dump manifolds on these cars? They look like they would clear the frame OK. You could just cut off the air tubes and weld them up and paint or coat them. They are cheap used about 50 bucks and they allready have O2 bungs in them. If your on a tight budget it might be worth a try. They flow as good as Fbody shorty headers anyway. Good Luck.

jdperk-86elco

I am getting ready to start the disassembly this weekend to get ready for the LS1 with 4l60e install. I have most of my parts on order but nothing received yet. Still waiting on John Bzdel's motor mounts and oil pan but it should be here in a couple of days.

Just need to work out a couple of issues. Need to decide if I will use my stock radiator or spend the money for a Griffin aluminum with electric fan.

Looking for information if the stock LS1 A/C compressor will work with R12 my preference of coolant. My current stock A/C works now with R12, and going to get it sucked out this week before the install.

Needed to solve:

A/C compressor- will it work with R12? Will I have to add a new one with a bracket on top? Will need custom hoses.

Transmissions Lines-how to fab to use the same quick disconnect or just screw into directly to the transmission.

Radiator- go with new one or use old one, hmmm? Need to figure out how to connect the small line from intake to radiator. Need electric fan and will connect using a relay controlled by PCM, then program the PCM for temperature on/off points.

Fuel line- Will retain the stock metal line on passenger side and need to fab new metal line to top of firewall behind the engine then a flex line to the drivers side fuel rail.

Fuel Tank, Sender, and pump- I have a FI 22 gal tank on order and a stock 1986 El Camino FI sender for 22 gal tank, need to order the Walbro in tank pump and figure out how to mount it.

Speedometer- I want to use the PCM signal for the speedo so I need to find one that will mount in the factory dash and go to at least 120mph.

Tach- will use a translator box to get the signal from the PCM calibrated correctly

Oil Pressure sender- need to build the adaptor above the oil filter.

Exhaust- need to see if the stock F-body manifolds with cats will fit the G-Body. If not then might go with S&P headers for G-body and still install Cats for emmisions legal. Will go with Stainless exhaust either MagnaFlow or FlowMaster, or other.

Drive shaft- need to shorten and new yoke for the 4l60e. Do I need the balancer yoke version like on the F-bodies?

SpearTech hooked me up with a complete turn key system including a Corvette fuel pressure regulator, 90 degree rubber intake elbow and air filter, and custom harness to mount the PCM in the passenger side kick panel. Great setup! I think this might not be as hard of an install as I initially thought.

I will probably go with EFILive tuner program when I catch my financial breath at the end of this swap.

I will keep everyone posted with questions and pictures.

"Factory LS1 A/C compressor work with R12?" is my A/C post/question.

Thanks in advance for your help.

James

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Since it seems like you don`t mind if the speedo looks stock you could use an autometer electronic programable speedo 3 3/8 diameter and you should be able to make it fit in the dash by cutting out the back of the stock gage cluster. They are available from Jegs in 120 or 160MPH readouts for $190. Or you could use a cyberdyne digital speedo from jegs, 2 1/16" for $70 or a 3 3/8" for $120.

Also a walbro 67gph in tank pump should be a direct fit for that sending unit. I think it used to be a model GSS340 but they changed the model number.

jdperk-86elco

Thanks for the info.

On the Speedo, I do kinda want the gauge to look factory. So I am thinking of taking my stock one and gutting it and then fabricate a Autometer one to bolt up. I would change the face somehow to make it look stock. Maybe using a Monte face plate.

I am also thinking of changing the complete cluster to the new Autometer Nexis setup, but that is just dreaming right now. I just want something to work and look stock for this stage of the game.

When I finally redo the interior then I will think about upgrading the dash.

I still need my A/C compressor questions answered. I kind of don't want to buy the S&P Sanden compressor and bracket to mount on the head but that might be my only option to continue to run R12.

Thanks for the info.

jdperk-86elco

Got the old motor and tranny out.

Working on mounting John B's motor mounts. Need to drill the new holes

Going for a trial fit to check the A/C compressor to see how much it hits the frame soon probably next weekend.

John B. I have some general questions.

I pulled my harness and computer out of the passenger side and in doing so disconnect a couple of multi pin connectors under the dash near the glove box. They seem to go to the computer and only about 4 wires went out to the engine bay. Do you know what these connectors control?

When salvaging my old harness that mainly goes to the starter I noticed the A/C plug is routed in series through the power steering pump pressure switch. I thought that was odd. Should I eliminate that power steering pressure switch?

I am going to try and reuse some of my factory wiring and plugs. I will keep you posted to my progress.

I have a G-Force crossmember that I need to paint and it should bolt up. Which tranny mount should I buy just a standard one for the 4l60e?

The tranny lines are some kind of snap fitting into the tranny can I buy a tool to create these line ends or should I just remove the fitting in the tranny and just scew in some standard tubing fittings like all trannies?

I have a ton more questions but I will wait till I get to those stages.

I want to hook up my column shifter linkage to the 4l60e and it looks like the shifter linkage will not reach the shifter bolt on the 4l60e. I have not varified it but it looks like it will be short. Can I find linkage to work? My backup is to just put a B&M shifter on the floor and cut my tranny tunnel. Don't really want to do that at this stage, but maybe down the road when I redo the interior and put in bucket seats. Any ideas where or how to get the column linkage to work?

I will post some pictures soon....

StickSS

I want to hook up my column shifter linkage to the 4l60e and it looks like the shifter linkage will not reach the shifter bolt on the 4l60e. I have not varified it but it looks like it will be short. Can I find linkage to work? My backup is to just put a B&M shifter on the floor and cut my tranny tunnel. Don't really want to do that at this stage, but maybe down the road when I redo the interior and put in bucket seats. Any ideas where or how to get the column linkage to work?

I will post some pictures soon....[/QUOTE]


Some of the column shifters have an adjusting nut on them try making it longer or getting a rod from a larger car fullsize Impala, Buick somthing like that. I forget what kind of set you have on that car. Some have the rod from the steering collum coming down to a bell crank assembly on the frame then they have a short rod from there to the trans. If this rod is to short try taking the selector lever off your old trans and see if it is longer and will bolt up. Make sure both trans are in park when you do this to get it right. If you don't have the money for headers yet try looking at the 04 GTO manifolds. They look like they might fit. If they use a standard flange 3 inch or 3 1/2 inch flange you could have them drilled wider to 2 1/2 or 3 inch. This would make the flange flat but you could probably get the old style exhaust dounut to fit it. Hope this helps

John B

iTrader: (10)

Can you tell me did these plug into the PCM? What are their colors?

Yes, it isn't required.

I'd started with the OEM to see if it works before trying something else.

I'm not familiar with these since mine is a T56. Might want to just ask at a tranny shop, there may be a simple tool for this.

When I raised my K-5 Blazer with a body kit the tranny linkage was too short. I just cut it and welded in a piece to make up the difference. This may be an option for you.

jdperk-86elco

Guys,

I am looking for a solution to connect a flexible fuel line to the fuel rail. S&P makes one that converts to a AN fitting for $40 bucks. Seems kind of steep to me for such a small fitting. Yet it seems to be my only option.

I found an old post stating that NAPA carried one on the shelf but when I went to look for one I got the dear in the head lights look. I kind of like the factory connection just because it is factory, however, I am leaning more and more toward the John B solution to just cut the fuel line and convert it to an AN connection. Which means I will have to take the fuel line off the engine and carry it to the shop. I found a local Tubes and Hose shop that could solve all my hose needs.

Anyone know where I can get a connector and the part number?

Is there a name for this type of connection?

What about the special swivel connections that go into the 4l60e is there a tool to make that or what is a solution to connect new tranny lines into the transmission.

James

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

its called a quick-connect or fuel line quick connect.

its a non-brand specific "domestic" standard... GM Ford and Mopar all run the same one.

i just walked into Advance auto ( aka one of parts america stores) and next to the Help! section, theres fuel line repair kits.

the fitting is in there in a clear bubble box, with a yellow piece of cardboard in it.


at napa, tell the guy you need a plastic fuel line fitting...

StickSS

Hi JD: Here is an Idea for the tranny cooler lines That I saw on a Buick Grand National last week. The guy mounted an after market cooler in front of the radiator and just ran braided lines (fuel lines) from the cooler to the trans. He ran them low from the trans and then next to the radiator and up to the cooler. Otherise you could try to run your old cooler lines and fit them in the trans and cut the end off the radiator end and run rubber hoses to an aftermarket cooler in front of the radiator. If you want to run the stock cooler you could do the same thing and cut off the end of the lines by the radiator and get 2 small metal tubes to connect to the radiator and use 2 compression fittings to hook the two lines together. Try changing the 2 fittings on the new trans with the ones from the old trans iff they are different sizes this may work. Good Luck. Post up some pictures when you get the motor in the car for us to see.