StickSS

Footnote: it maybe be easier and cleaner looking if you used the original cooler lines from the radiator down to the trans and cut of the tranny ends. Put the 2 small tubes in the tranny end and use the compression fittings under the car so no one will see them. If the tubes are different sizes I think you can get compression fittings with 3/8 on one end and 5/16 on the other. There is not a lot off pressure in the tranny lines so you will be allright. You need a tube bending tool to bend metal lines. You can also just put a big socket or a small piece of pipe in a vise and bend the tube around the curve. I have done this in a pinch before.

jdperk-86elco

Thanks for the advice. My plans are to run metal lines between the radiator and tranny and I would like to just make the snap fitting ends to snap them into the radiator for a factory setup. I do have 4 inch tubing ends coming out of the transmission that contains the factory snap ends so I could put a fitting on these short ends and run the rest of the hard line.

StickSS

Hi: JD if your still undecided on the exhaust system ATR makes a low cost single 3 inch cat back exhaust to fit a Buick Grand National. It costs $399 but is made of all stainless steel. If your running the Fbody cats and manifolds you could just make up a y pipe to fit. They also sell stainless steel exhaust pipe for 7 dollars a foot. Might want to check them out online.

ducaT

Small hijack here.....

Just dropped the 4.8 into my 83 el camino and it seems like the driver's side manifold is awfully close to the frame.

Any other G bodies having this issue?

Thinking about switching to F body manifolds for some more clearance and to make it eaier for the exhaust shop.

John B

iTrader: (10)

What did you use for motor mounts?

jdperk-86elco

Installed the LS1 and trany for a trial fit. Took me a few attemps to clear ever item. I had to remove a few items to get it in place but it looks like John B's motor mounts and notched oil pan work perfectly together.

I have a few issues to solve:

Pictures of A/C compresser hitting the frame crossmember. It doesn't look like I need to notch too much of the frame. The compressor looks to clear the frame rail so I might just cut a hole to clear the connector. I will cut a little and keep trying to see if it is enough. Then weld in some metal to strengthen it up.

My back lift chain is hitting the fire wall and I think I can move it toward the center of the engine to the inside head to clear and allow me to take it off when I get the engine installed for the final time. How did you do it John B?

The coil pack bracket mount on the valve cover is pretty close to the firewall/AC box. I learned from John B's experience to take off the coil pack before trying to get it installed. I am going to try and trim the bracket to see if it will fit or I will try a truck bracket. Any ideas?

Oil pan is tight but once I relieve the A/C compressor I think it will clear with more room from the crossmember. The altnator clears the power steering pump so good news.

I am hoping I can use the stock exhaust manifolds. The passenger side looks tight but I think it will work even with the cats but will have to test and see. I think the drivers side will work but it is tight since I had to take it off to get the motor in place. I will have to install it from below to see if it will fit. If not then I will have to come up with another solution, maybe S&P G-body headers but that is just more money.

My funds are starting to get tight but I will finish this soon.

James

StickSS

Hi: JD good job so far. Just curious what year manifolds and cats are you using? Does the O2 sensor clear or do you have to relocate it like John did. John used the 99 manifolds I think, maybe the 2000 and up manifolds and cats will fit without modifications. If they fit just make a Ypipe with a flange and bolt it up to your cat back. If you go with headers look at the picture of the pacesetter long tube truck headers and off road pipe on there web site. They look like they might fit and the ypipe has a flange on it that comes out in the stock location. Maybe you could try them and just return them if they don't fit. S and P has a new bracket on there new products page that mounts the F body compressor closer to the engine and forward. It uses the Fbody alternator, tensioner and PS pump and a single longer belt. This maybe an option for you. I would not grind or cut the frame. Keep us posted. Bye

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Glad to see everything is fitting together ok for you. Nice El Camino, it looks almost exactly the same as mine, except I do not have the rails along the edge of the bed. Its rare for me to see another black and silver SS. I finally bought a motor for mine, A 5.3l from a 01 tahoe.

ducaT

Came from Brewer's. I think they're called BRM.
Other than that, no issue. The exhaust guy can probably work around it, just seemed a little close.
I'll try and get a pic.

Motor's centered and level and the car has never been in a collision.

John B

iTrader: (10)

Move it to the inside of the head and be sure to jack up the back of the motor to level it more.

jdperk-86elco

Actually it is maroon and silver but my paint is so thin and faded it looks kind of brown. Paint job is next after the motor install.

jdperk-86elco

The LS1 is a 2000 and the manifolds look like they will work however I didn't test to see if the O2 sensor hit anything. If it does I think I might go with S&P G-Body headers and then dual it out with cats.

jdperk-86elco

Just test fit the motor again and raised the transmission tail to level out the motor. Looks good, John B's motor mount and oil pan looks like they work well. A quick glance I think the transmission shift linkage will work with my stock column shift linkage but I am not ready to go there yet.

I removed the A/C compressor to get a better fit and see clearly where I need to cut and clearance the frame. Not too bad, just need to get some gas for the welder and rent a plasma cutter, so need to coordinate that next then I can bolt the motor in permanently.

Issues to solve:

The factory cats appear to be hitting the frame or come so close that they will rub the frame.

The drivers side O2 sensor will hit the frame so no way to even install it in the stock location. Option is to relocate the bung on both sides or to purchase S&P G-Body Headers but expensive.

Passenger side coil bracket does hit just like John B has discovered. My options are to either modify my bracket like John did or look for other alternatives like using a truck coil pack bracket. I read somewhere where the truck coil bracket solves this clearance problem. However I want to use the Corvette fuel rail covers when I am done so I don't know if the truck coil brackets will allow me to mount the covers. Right now I am thinking of modifying the coil bracket on #8 and lengthing the coil wire as John B has done. What about remote locating the coil packs has anyone done this and are there kits out there to do this? I don't think there is much room to relocate the coil packs or even currently see a place to put them elsewhere.

I have a 15 pin plug (two halves 7 pin and 8 pin) under the dash near the glove box that I have traced out the wires I think its number in my manual is C434 for V8 Vin H. It contains 10 wires total.

One side with 4 wires and colors are:
R
P -purple --Brake switch NC opens when petal is depressed for torque converter.
N -orange/black stripe --Gear selector switch
M -Black/white stripe --ground
L
K - brown --VSS Buffer
J

Second side with 6 wires, colors are:
A -Brown --ALCL
B -orange --ECM-Pwr 10 Amp
C -white/dark green stripe --Light Dimmer Module
D
E -white/black stripe --ALCL
F -pink/black stripe --Ign-ECM 10 Amp
G
H -brown/black stripe --ALCL

I think I will cut the female plugs off the old ECM harness and splice into its wires to reconnect some of these items. If anyone has a wiring diagram if you can confirm where these wires go and know if I need to reuse them please chime up.

Next step it to notch the frame and weld back in some metal to permanently install the motor then I think the installation will speed up with just little odds and end to solve.

That is all for now....

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

I have the computer wiring diagram for a 1986 El camino but I can`t get it to upload to the post because the file is too big. If you want to pm me you e-mail adress I could send it to you.

jdperk-86elco

Thanks for the offer but I have a full manual with diagrams. My real question is I am looking for confirmation that I am reading the right plug. One diagram calls it C437 and another calls it C434. I think the C437 is V6 and C434 is V8 VIN H which is my vehicle. I need to look it over again to determine which it is and which side of the electrical it is on.

StickSS

Hey JD: How is it going we haven't heard from you in a while. Have you been on vacation? Hows your project going I curious if you ever got it up and running yet? Did you run out of money and have to put it on hold for a while? Post up lets us know how its going. See Ya.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

did you ever resolve the transmission quick disconnect problem?? If you found fittings that screwed into the trans and accepted regular double flared line on the other side let me know where you bought it, I am trying to figure out how to connect my lines right now and can`t find anything.

jdperk-86elco

Just finished knotching the frame for the AC compressor clearance. Doing some clean up and painting of the frame crossmember area.

Working on running a new fuel line from passenger frame rail to behind the engine on the firewall. I have already solved the fuel rail issue by ordering a flex hose and connector from a company in AZ.

The tranny lines look to be 3/8" and not 5/16 like I expected. I have been told that by removing the adapter out of the transmission case that a standard line connection will thread right in. So that is the route I am investigating. I have taken out the adapter and going to verify its thread pattern and find a line solution. I think I will break the transmission lines up into two sections to make it easy to run the lines and also to disconnect the lines later on if necessary.

Once I get the transmission lines partually run from the transmission forward and the fuel line run then I will reconnect the engine harness and permanetly bolt in the motor.

I modified the passenger side coil bracket and shifted #8 mounting up 1/2" to clear the AC box. It should still work with the stock plug wire but it will be tight. I will probably get a LS1 truck plug wire set and put on the motor.

I listened to John B's install and tried my best not to punch a hole in the AC box but working by ones self I failed and now have a crushed spot in the AC box. I plan to patch it will fiberglass and move forward. If I do a body off frame paint job I might change to a new box out of the junk yard.

Things needed to be solved:

• Transmission mount
• $&P headers for G body or fab from the stock exhaust manifold down.
• AC condensor, need to find a new one with the connections on top passenger side.
• New A/C lines
• New Radiator, I have been told 1989 Transam radiator will work and is a direct bolt on aluminum version.
• Power steering lines-will my old ones work or the F-body work, or will I have to fab a new set.
• Electrical connection hookup under the dash
• Mounting the computer in the passenger kick panel.
• Mounting up the new FI gas tank, FI sender, and fuel pump plus wiring it up.
• Need the tach adapter so it will read correctly
• Need to modify the SES light circuit
• Need new exhaust system, probably going with MagnaFlow Stainless Steel.
• Column shifter linkage needs to be modified, however initial look it appears my stock linkage will connect right up, if not then I will modify my linkage to make it work.

I have been busy with other things plus wife time so I haven't been able to put a lot of full days into the build. My goal is to have it running by the end of August. I think that is doable. The wife is going away on business for 5 days so I can put in 5 nights of work into it then.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Olds cutlasses should have the connections on the top passenger side of the A/C condensor.
I found a way around the tach adapter. I had my pcm reprogramed to eliminate the unneeded codes yesterday and I had him reprogram the tach output to a V8 signal. He was using EFI live Version 7, but I think I read on this site that a new version of LS1 edit also has this capability.

StickSS

Hi: JD if you use the Cutlass Condenser like G body said you might be able to have a good radiator shop relocate the high side connection to the bottom of the condensor on the passenger side. This way you would only have to run a short like 1 foot line to the condensor because you mounted it low. It would be a cleaner looking install. G Body post up some pictures of your swap if you can. I am interested to know if you used the truck exhaust manifolds and how much clearence you had bettween the frame and how you handled the O2 sensors. Did all the truck accessories fit? Maybe you could post a picture of the front of the engine too. Are you using a truck harness, computer and did you mount the PCM inside the car? Thanks