s&p motor plates
s&p motor plates Just wondering where the motor plates put the block. I tried asking one of their tech guys and he didnt seem to know anything... and then he told me that a tko 600 was a 6 speed... (Its a bad *** FIVE speed).
Specifically I want to know if they grab the ls1 block so as that the back of the block remains in the same place as the regular small block.
I want to know if the motor plates were designed so that the ls1 preserves the gen 1 block crank angle and height, and if they were designed around the back of the block, not the front.
The way I see it if those three things are met, then I do not have to worry about driveline angles and custom tranny supports etc. I could be wrong though... but I fail to see how the answer to that question (with the exception of crank angle) is dependant on the gm vehicle that the engine goes in.
The s&p guy told me it was vehicle dependant... It cant be... these are all measurements taken with respect to the block... The back, and the crank height.
So yeah, I pass my frustration and curiosity (or ignorance) onto the forums... I cant be the only person that wants to know this.
Specifically I want to know if they grab the ls1 block so as that the back of the block remains in the same place as the regular small block.
I want to know if the motor plates were designed so that the ls1 preserves the gen 1 block crank angle and height, and if they were designed around the back of the block, not the front.
The way I see it if those three things are met, then I do not have to worry about driveline angles and custom tranny supports etc. I could be wrong though... but I fail to see how the answer to that question (with the exception of crank angle) is dependant on the gm vehicle that the engine goes in.
The s&p guy told me it was vehicle dependant... It cant be... these are all measurements taken with respect to the block... The back, and the crank height.
So yeah, I pass my frustration and curiosity (or ignorance) onto the forums... I cant be the only person that wants to know this.
block plates I am assuming that you are putting this in your 68. Block plates locate the back of the block to the same location as the stock location. You will need to use early style motor mounts (67 style) With this in place your oil pan will hand down aprox 3/4 of an inch below your cross member. You are going to have to either modify a turbo 400 rear cross memeber for the transmission or build your own. Either way, go to home depot and get a magnetic protractor and set you down angle between 2.5 and 4 degrees. (2.5 is better) Use the stock height subframe bushings as well. If you are going to use a T56, get the reverse lockout plug from street and performance as well, because you are going to need to remove it as well. Shoot me a pm if you want to know about brackets for the accessories or if you want to run your car low.
I used a late model C4 (1994) IFS and subframe on my 50 Merc. The IFS crossmember has the flat pads for the engine mounts (as opposed to the vertical mounts on the earlier C4s)...so I thought that I would just use the C5 LS1 engine stands. The good news is that the C5 engine stands are the exact same width as the C4 mounting plates; the bad news is that they raise the engine up over an inch from stock. I am still going to use the C5 mounts but I will have to cut and weld them to get them to the correct height. If you use the C5 mounts then you don't need the S&P plates but I'm not sure about the rear engine offset...in my case I am modifying the firewall so that part didn't mean as much to me as the engine height.
BTW...I have a couple of C5 oil pans if you decide you need one for the clearance problem.
BTW...I have a couple of C5 oil pans if you decide you need one for the clearance problem.
I used the S+P mounts. They fit good, but are overpriced. You have to have your oil pan notched to clear the stock steering if you don't switch to R&P. My engine sits fine, close to the firewall where I wanted it. You have to use their headers as well. Get SBC motor stands and mounts to replace your Pontiac stands. I got a 6spd x-member and slave cyl. bracket from T56kit.com. My x-member is nowhere close to bolting up like it's supposed to. So I gotta drill holes to make it fit. PM me if you need any help. I'll tell you what I can. Mine is still in progress..
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I agree. I couldn't get S & P's brackets to work. BRP's T-56 crossmember didn't line up at all, and their motor mounts put the engine too far forward. We had to modify and fabricate alot of stuff to make it work like it is supposed to.
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