Some wiring questions to throw out there...
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Some wiring questions to throw out there...
Well I have some wiring questions for you guys just to see if any one knows. I have a speartech modified wiring harness for a third gen ls1 conversion. Here is a list of things that dont work and how they dont work.
1. Speedometer
-I put it in gear while the car is running and the spedometer doesnt move at all and just stays at 0. There isnt any wires to even wire up the speedometer, it is integrated into the harness and goes to the clear underdash connector.
2. Oil Pressure
- The oil pressure guage always reads on max no matter what if the car is on or off or running or anything. There is a wire that needs to be connected off the harness into one of the wires off the bulk head that I thought I did correctly. I used the tan wire that came from the previous oil sensor connector and connected it to it.
3. Tach
-this is the wierdest one of all. It doesnt seem to go to any consistant rpm. Ill start the car and it will go up to about 2250 rpms and just stays there, even though the engine is running at much under 2250 rpms. This is if it running without a tach conversion box, when it is running through the box it does the same thing only at 4500, so the tach converter is not the problem and is working fine.
Everything is grounded, and i am confused at what the problem might be. Someone suggested a possible short or something, but I wouldnt even know where to look for one. I was thinking that it could be a problem with the guage pod because I bought it off speartech (145 mph) but changed out the needles(i liked my stock orange ones instead of the yellow ones it came with)...I doubt that it is the problem but just including it. If anyone has any ideas, feel free to share.
Thanks a ton...
Chris
1. Speedometer
-I put it in gear while the car is running and the spedometer doesnt move at all and just stays at 0. There isnt any wires to even wire up the speedometer, it is integrated into the harness and goes to the clear underdash connector.
2. Oil Pressure
- The oil pressure guage always reads on max no matter what if the car is on or off or running or anything. There is a wire that needs to be connected off the harness into one of the wires off the bulk head that I thought I did correctly. I used the tan wire that came from the previous oil sensor connector and connected it to it.
3. Tach
-this is the wierdest one of all. It doesnt seem to go to any consistant rpm. Ill start the car and it will go up to about 2250 rpms and just stays there, even though the engine is running at much under 2250 rpms. This is if it running without a tach conversion box, when it is running through the box it does the same thing only at 4500, so the tach converter is not the problem and is working fine.
Everything is grounded, and i am confused at what the problem might be. Someone suggested a possible short or something, but I wouldnt even know where to look for one. I was thinking that it could be a problem with the guage pod because I bought it off speartech (145 mph) but changed out the needles(i liked my stock orange ones instead of the yellow ones it came with)...I doubt that it is the problem but just including it. If anyone has any ideas, feel free to share.
Thanks a ton...
Chris
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Yea i ask him all the time about differnt problems and he always helps out, but I thought I would ask around here first before I bothered him any more. And its a 91 and up cluster from a 350 car...its got the 145 mph speedo. I used to have the 115 mph cluster but then i switched to the 145, because I might be trapping over 115 . Just lookin for ideas here guys...thanks.
Chris
Chris
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Originally Posted by 92CamaroReallySlow
Well I have some wiring questions for you guys just to see if any one knows. I have a speartech modified wiring harness for a third gen ls1 conversion. Here is a list of things that dont work and how they dont work.
1. Speedometer
-I put it in gear while the car is running and the spedometer doesnt move at all and just stays at 0. There isnt any wires to even wire up the speedometer, it is integrated into the harness and goes to the clear underdash connector.
2. Oil Pressure
- The oil pressure guage always reads on max no matter what if the car is on or off or running or anything. There is a wire that needs to be connected off the harness into one of the wires off the bulk head that I thought I did correctly. I used the tan wire that came from the previous oil sensor connector and connected it to it.
3. Tach
-this is the wierdest one of all. It doesnt seem to go to any consistant rpm. Ill start the car and it will go up to about 2250 rpms and just stays there, even though the engine is running at much under 2250 rpms. This is if it running without a tach conversion box, when it is running through the box it does the same thing only at 4500, so the tach converter is not the problem and is working fine.
Everything is grounded, and i am confused at what the problem might be. Someone suggested a possible short or something, but I wouldnt even know where to look for one. I was thinking that it could be a problem with the guage pod because I bought it off speartech (145 mph) but changed out the needles(i liked my stock orange ones instead of the yellow ones it came with)...I doubt that it is the problem but just including it. If anyone has any ideas, feel free to share.
Thanks a ton...
Chris
1. Speedometer
-I put it in gear while the car is running and the spedometer doesnt move at all and just stays at 0. There isnt any wires to even wire up the speedometer, it is integrated into the harness and goes to the clear underdash connector.
2. Oil Pressure
- The oil pressure guage always reads on max no matter what if the car is on or off or running or anything. There is a wire that needs to be connected off the harness into one of the wires off the bulk head that I thought I did correctly. I used the tan wire that came from the previous oil sensor connector and connected it to it.
3. Tach
-this is the wierdest one of all. It doesnt seem to go to any consistant rpm. Ill start the car and it will go up to about 2250 rpms and just stays there, even though the engine is running at much under 2250 rpms. This is if it running without a tach conversion box, when it is running through the box it does the same thing only at 4500, so the tach converter is not the problem and is working fine.
Everything is grounded, and i am confused at what the problem might be. Someone suggested a possible short or something, but I wouldnt even know where to look for one. I was thinking that it could be a problem with the guage pod because I bought it off speartech (145 mph) but changed out the needles(i liked my stock orange ones instead of the yellow ones it came with)...I doubt that it is the problem but just including it. If anyone has any ideas, feel free to share.
Thanks a ton...
Chris
1. Since you had a V8 TBI car, you will probably have to make one more change in the interior for the speedo to work. You will need to find the VSS buffer box (behind the instrument panel). In position "C" is a brown wire that goes up to the speedo. You will need to cut this wire and hook it to the yellow wire that comes into the clear underdash connector.
This is just another one of the model to model variations that occurs with the 3rd gens.
2. For the oil pressure, just ground the tan wire while the key is on and the gauge should go to zero. If not you may be on the wrong tan wire.
3. Hard to say on the tach. You can send the cluster back and I can check it and the other gauges for operation. I will say this; changing the needles on these gauges is kind of a delicate operation. They are fairly fragile instruments and easily damaged. I use a needle puller tool here, but I avoid doing it if possible.
__________________
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
#7
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Originally Posted by Speartech
Chris,
1. Since you had a V8 TBI car, you will probably have to make one more change in the interior for the speedo to work. You will need to find the VSS buffer box (behind the instrument panel). In position "C" is a brown wire that goes up to the speedo. You will need to cut this wire and hook it to the yellow wire that comes into the clear underdash connector.
This is just another one of the model to model variations that occurs with the 3rd gens.
1. Since you had a V8 TBI car, you will probably have to make one more change in the interior for the speedo to work. You will need to find the VSS buffer box (behind the instrument panel). In position "C" is a brown wire that goes up to the speedo. You will need to cut this wire and hook it to the yellow wire that comes into the clear underdash connector.
This is just another one of the model to model variations that occurs with the 3rd gens.
2. For the oil pressure, just ground the tan wire while the key is on and the gauge should go to zero. If not you may be on the wrong tan wire.
3. Hard to say on the tach. You can send the cluster back and I can check it and the other gauges for operation. I will say this; changing the needles on these gauges is kind of a delicate operation. They are fairly fragile instruments and easily damaged. I use a needle puller tool here, but I avoid doing it if possible.
Thanks again for all the help, just let me know about the guage cluster. I appreciate it.
Chris
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#8
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if you dont want to pull the dash apart to get at that speedo wire, you CAN get to it easily....
take off the drivers side underdash panel(the one held with 5 big torx screws), and when you stick your head under there, look up at the back of the gauges... you'll see the connectors right there.
the TAN wire, in the top corner closest to the steering column on the connector closest to the door of the car, is the wire you need to connect the VSS pulse to.
its basicly the same thing john just said above, except at a diffrent point. either way works..
i redid mine yesterday.. i also had it going thru the VSS buffer, so while i was doing some other stuff(car alarm), i just took the bufferbox out.
heres some of ALOT of diagrams i have for the car..... they're from the PDF files i have..
take off the drivers side underdash panel(the one held with 5 big torx screws), and when you stick your head under there, look up at the back of the gauges... you'll see the connectors right there.
the TAN wire, in the top corner closest to the steering column on the connector closest to the door of the car, is the wire you need to connect the VSS pulse to.
its basicly the same thing john just said above, except at a diffrent point. either way works..
i redid mine yesterday.. i also had it going thru the VSS buffer, so while i was doing some other stuff(car alarm), i just took the bufferbox out.
heres some of ALOT of diagrams i have for the car..... they're from the PDF files i have..
#9
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Thanks Mr Dude...I might do that if im not going to send the cluster back to john to check out, but even so Ive had it apart a couple times to it would take only a few minutes to get it out. But if it is easier to get at that wire under the under dash panal (which i already have off), I might do it that way.
#10
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heh, i could have SWORN i attached the images..
anyhoo the entire wiring is here: http://66.83.134.202/travis/91FbodyWiring/
on the "d" PDF, page 31, is the entire VSS system for your car.
athough you're really only intrested in the pinout for the gauge cluster. thats in "ca" page 14 and 15.....
anyhoo the entire wiring is here: http://66.83.134.202/travis/91FbodyWiring/
on the "d" PDF, page 31, is the entire VSS system for your car.
athough you're really only intrested in the pinout for the gauge cluster. thats in "ca" page 14 and 15.....
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Yea I figured you were lookin for the files or something...but yea thats a pretty nice little collection of wiring diagrams you got there...Im definatly going to save those, but I have a quick question...the connector shown on "ca" page 14 and 15 is behind the guage cluster or is that the clear underdash connector?