Help!! why wont it start??
Originally Posted by jimmyp
Well the surging problem turned out to be nothing really. I just hadnt plugged the hole right behind the tb so there was a vacum leak. Still have to figure out why the fuel line regulator at the rails doesnt work when they are hooked up correctly though???
Hope you didn't connect the nipple on the regulator to a vacuum source...it's just atmospheric reference, not supposed to be engine vacuum to my knowledge.
Originally Posted by LS1GMCTruck
That the F-body in-tank fuel pump is not regulated. Someone correct me on this if I'm wrong please. Most GM engines are regulated on the engine. Could the problem then be...that there is no pressure be regulated, thus over-pressurizing the system/injectors? The filter you are using should be labeled in & out. Gar
Either way I still had the vette regulator on the fuel rail which should have done the job but it didnt work at all until I ran it backwards. Just cant figure that one out.
Whats the easiest way to check fuel pressure to get a psi reading???
Originally Posted by jimmyp
Whats the easiest way to check fuel pressure to get a psi reading???
Originally Posted by crainholio
Hook up a gauge to the fitting on the front of the driver's side fuel rail. The cheapo gauge from Advance Auto works fine for this.
So I try to keep things as simple as possible for them now.
Originally Posted by jimmyp
i dont have a local advance auto here but would any parts store have it?? IS there a name for it or is it just a fuel pressure gauge...
If the guy's an idiot, just ask for a GM compatible gauge that can read up to 60psi.
Originally Posted by jimmyp
the local auto parts stores tend to run and hide when they see me walk in the door
Between sizing rad hoses and a serp belt for my ATI undersize balancer, I left my local parts guys feeling a tad abused. 
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 33
From: Anderson, Indiana
Originally Posted by jimmyp
i thought ive been reading that the f-body regulator was in tank as ive been searching all the old posts related to this????
Either way I still had the vette regulator on the fuel rail which should have done the job but it didnt work at all until I ran it backwards. Just cant figure that one out.
Whats the easiest way to check fuel pressure to get a psi reading???
Either way I still had the vette regulator on the fuel rail which should have done the job but it didnt work at all until I ran it backwards. Just cant figure that one out.
Whats the easiest way to check fuel pressure to get a psi reading???
With your setup, you could have used the regular single inlet fuel rail, and just put a tee in your fuel line on top of the tank, and run a single line up to the engine.
__________________
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2004
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Originally Posted by jimmyp
ok new update:
I went out and swapped the pressure and return lines going into the fuel rail. So the pressure was heading into the bottom of the regulator and the return came off the back of it. I swear to god the thing didnt even crank for 1/2 a second and it fired up right away. Oil pressure jumped up to 50psi almost instantly. However it began to idle/rev really high so I disonnected the battery after maybe 30 seconds. Everything sounded good, ok awesome, but I was just worried about how high it was revving.
Any new ideas on whats going on???
I went out and swapped the pressure and return lines going into the fuel rail. So the pressure was heading into the bottom of the regulator and the return came off the back of it. I swear to god the thing didnt even crank for 1/2 a second and it fired up right away. Oil pressure jumped up to 50psi almost instantly. However it began to idle/rev really high so I disonnected the battery after maybe 30 seconds. Everything sounded good, ok awesome, but I was just worried about how high it was revving.
Any new ideas on whats going on???
Originally Posted by Speartech
You really should pull up the intank pump assembly and remove the regulator since you have the Vette fuel rail assembly. Right now you are running 2 regulators which isn't right and will cause your return line to be at full pressure at all times. I don't know what problems it will cause but it definitely isn't correct.
With your setup, you could have used the regular single inlet fuel rail, and just put a tee in your fuel line on top of the tank, and run a single line up to the engine.
With your setup, you could have used the regular single inlet fuel rail, and just put a tee in your fuel line on top of the tank, and run a single line up to the engine.
I heard its better to run the full length pressure/return because it always provides cold fuel to the engine???
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11 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: victoria canada.
Did you finally get this all figured out? I was just curious as I'm starting my project now.
I thought with the 99+ style fuel pump assembly that you didn't need the a regulator on the rail???
Thanks
Terry
I thought with the 99+ style fuel pump assembly that you didn't need the a regulator on the rail???
Thanks
Terry
Originally Posted by Terry'sToy
Did you finally get this all figured out? I was just curious as I'm starting my project now.
I thought with the 99+ style fuel pump assembly that you didn't need the a regulator on the rail???
Thanks
Terry
I thought with the 99+ style fuel pump assembly that you didn't need the a regulator on the rail???
Thanks
Terry
11 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: victoria canada.
I'll try and explain what is going on with your regulated fuel rail. First the fuel pressure is already at the correct pressure because of the regulator in the tank, so when the fuel gets to the rail it cannot overcome the regulators spring pressure thats mounted on the rail. It just deadheads. The reason it works when connected backwards is because that is the easiest path into the rail. The fuel does not have to overcome any spring pressure in the regulator. This is the backdoor so to speak.
I would just use your single f-body style fuel rail and plug the return line on your tank. Keep running the filter that you have in there. That set-up will be essentially like an original f-body set-up.
Won't cost you anymore either.
Nice trucks you have there.
Good luck
Terry
I would just use your single f-body style fuel rail and plug the return line on your tank. Keep running the filter that you have in there. That set-up will be essentially like an original f-body set-up.
Won't cost you anymore either.
Nice trucks you have there.
Good luck
Terry
Originally Posted by Terry'sToy
I'll try and explain what is going on with your regulated fuel rail. First the fuel pressure is already at the correct pressure because of the regulator in the tank, so when the fuel gets to the rail it cannot overcome the regulators spring pressure thats mounted on the rail. It just deadheads. The reason it works when connected backwards is because that is the easiest path into the rail. The fuel does not have to overcome any spring pressure in the regulator. This is the backdoor so to speak.
I would just use your single f-body style fuel rail and plug the return line on your tank. Keep running the filter that you have in there. That set-up will be essentially like an original f-body set-up.
Won't cost you anymore either.
Nice trucks you have there.
Good luck
Terry
I would just use your single f-body style fuel rail and plug the return line on your tank. Keep running the filter that you have in there. That set-up will be essentially like an original f-body set-up.
Won't cost you anymore either.
Nice trucks you have there.
Good luck
Terry
That will make things easier but i wasnt aware that i could just plug the return port to the tank. I thought that it needed the filter that returned the un-needed fuel to the tank.
Also I am having some problems with the russell aluminum compression fuel fittings leaking. Anyone have any ideas of how to seal these off better?
11 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: victoria canada.
The return line shouldn't matter. Maybe shoot John at speartech an email.
The hard line adapters need to be pretty tight to seal. They need to compress the steel line a bit in order to seal.
Good luck
Terry
The hard line adapters need to be pretty tight to seal. They need to compress the steel line a bit in order to seal.
Good luck
Terry