Rebuilding my swapped RX7 over the winter- (big pics)
#1
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From: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Rebuilding my swapped RX7 over the winter- (big pics)
Well, as I've got the chassis stripped for paint, I pulled the engine/tranny for some further clean up and adjustments, as well as to repair the rear main oil leak.
I made the little bracket and was pretty proud of it. Those 'noids aren't going ANYWHERE. :yeah:
-AN fitting for the fuel line. I'm going to be using a Mallory FPR with braided hosing and an earl's filter for my new fuel setup. I was never pleased with the old setup. We'll see how this one does. (I'm still using the stock hard lines for the moment). The fitting is a Russell part, from Summit.
FPR (the gauges is upside down on purpose. Easier to read while adjusting. Learned that from a T/F car team.. hehe)
AN fittings on the tranny for the braided lines to the tranny cooler.
Smoothed and painted LS1 intake.
Paint stripped... what a chore-
All in all the engine/tranny are coming well. I have the paint for the chassis now as well. I'm going through and cleaning a few more things, moved the PCM into the interior, and a few other details. Hopefully this will be a pretty sterile swap when all said and done. We shall see.
I made the little bracket and was pretty proud of it. Those 'noids aren't going ANYWHERE. :yeah:
-AN fitting for the fuel line. I'm going to be using a Mallory FPR with braided hosing and an earl's filter for my new fuel setup. I was never pleased with the old setup. We'll see how this one does. (I'm still using the stock hard lines for the moment). The fitting is a Russell part, from Summit.
FPR (the gauges is upside down on purpose. Easier to read while adjusting. Learned that from a T/F car team.. hehe)
AN fittings on the tranny for the braided lines to the tranny cooler.
Smoothed and painted LS1 intake.
Paint stripped... what a chore-
All in all the engine/tranny are coming well. I have the paint for the chassis now as well. I'm going through and cleaning a few more things, moved the PCM into the interior, and a few other details. Hopefully this will be a pretty sterile swap when all said and done. We shall see.
#3
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Originally Posted by yodawagon
you wouldnt happen to remember that part number for that earl fitting on your fuel rail. i have the same rail and have been trying to decide if i could use it. any help would be great.
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That is a pulsation damper on the lines not a regulator. There is a return line, its just before the fuel lines on the engine. You'll need a regulator with a return line before the fuel rail. I use a mallory unit with braided lines, as seen in the above pictures. It's about 90 bucks for the unit. You'll need a high pressure capable filter before the regulator on the feed line as well.
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#9
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Regulator is a Mallory 4305M I believe. That is a coldfusion based wet system. I've tweaked it with parts from several manufacturers to get it the way it is now, along with a custom nitrous ring (TNT style) and custom brackets.
#10
looking good... like the painted intake manifold, powdercoated valvecovers, and polished TB. Should be a beast.
Put some JTR headers on it as well if you can spring for the $$$.
Put some JTR headers on it as well if you can spring for the $$$.
#11
looking good... like the painted intake manifold, powdercoated valvecovers, and polished TB. Should be a beast.
Put some JTR headers on it as well if you can spring for the $$$. 20-30rwhp. Underdrive pulley while it is on the stand is a good idea. They are a PITA to get the harmonic balancer bolt torque'd when in the car if you plan to do it later.
Put some JTR headers on it as well if you can spring for the $$$. 20-30rwhp. Underdrive pulley while it is on the stand is a good idea. They are a PITA to get the harmonic balancer bolt torque'd when in the car if you plan to do it later.
#12
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Originally Posted by gnx7
looking good... like the painted intake manifold, powdercoated valvecovers, and polished TB. Should be a beast.
Put some JTR headers on it as well if you can spring for the $$$. 20-30rwhp. Underdrive pulley while it is on the stand is a good idea. They are a PITA to get the harmonic balancer bolt torque'd when in the car if you plan to do it later.
Put some JTR headers on it as well if you can spring for the $$$. 20-30rwhp. Underdrive pulley while it is on the stand is a good idea. They are a PITA to get the harmonic balancer bolt torque'd when in the car if you plan to do it later.
I can't use the JTRs, 4L60e on mine. Too much money just to hack them up to try and fit.
We'll see how I feel, I might try the BBK Ford 5.0 headers and swap the LS1 flanges on. Mayyyyybe.