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where to run autometer water temp sender??

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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 08:39 PM
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Default where to run autometer water temp sender??

pretty sure the stock water temp signal still needs to run into the pcm. Since I cant just replace the stocker, where should I run the sender for the water temp?
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 08:57 PM
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I do not know if the pcm needs the stock sensor, but the head without the sensor just has an plug what would be the sensor hole. You could remove the plug and replace it with a aftermarket sensor.
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Argon Z
I do not know if the pcm needs the stock sensor, but the head without the sensor just has an plug what would be the sensor hole. You could remove the plug and replace it with a aftermarket sensor.
I thought the pcm needed to know the temp so it can turn the fans on/off???

Didnt realize the other head had a plug....thank you
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 10:19 PM
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Yes, the PCM needs the stock sensor. Yup, you can use the hole in the other head to feed another gauge. That's where I put it.

(BTW, the left and right heads are the exact same casting. It doesn't matter which one you put on either side, except that the wiring for the stock water temp sensor is on the driver's side.)
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Scooter70
Yes, the PCM needs the stock sensor. Yup, you can use the hole in the other head to feed another gauge. That's where I put it.

(BTW, the left and right heads are the exact same casting. It doesn't matter which one you put on either side, except that the wiring for the stock water temp sensor is on the driver's side.)
good point on the heads
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 05:24 AM
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Default Temp gauge

Hi I used a auto meter gauge I got the one that had a 1/8 NPT you will need the small one if you want to use the hole that is in the head. you then need a adapter to use to go from metric to 1/8 pipe thread. auto meter will have this. I serched this site and came up with a kit from autobarn on the net. I had to dril out the end of this bushing to make the sender side clear the brass. but it was no prob. the other opt. is to drill out the hole in your head and tap it for the larger sender. this will be a npd size. when you tighten down the adapter and sender be carful their is not a lot of brass left and it can snap off.
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 11:18 AM
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or you can tap your water pump
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmyp
I thought the pcm needed to know the temp so it can turn the fans on/off???

Didnt realize the other head had a plug....thank you
Run your fans off seperate relays.. not off the PCM.. you will be happier in the long run..

Two relays set for 180 and 200 worked well for me.. the PCM (ECM) sometimes fights with trying to turn them on/off.

Mount the sender to the hole in the side of the passengers side head. You will need an adapter due to the threads.

It is just that easy
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 03:21 PM
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The PCM needs the water temp for other functions too, so you do need it whether you use the PCM to trigger the fans or not.

-Matt
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve1969LS1
Run your fans off seperate relays.. not off the PCM.. you will be happier in the long run..

Two relays set for 180 and 200 worked well for me.. the PCM (ECM) sometimes fights with trying to turn them on/off.

Mount the sender to the hole in the side of the passengers side head. You will need an adapter due to the threads.

It is just that easy
i had the tuner adjust the temps for the fans...think that will help?
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 08:08 PM
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I ran mine (Datsun 280Z sender) on the passenger side block where the optional heater element would go (Thanks to Johns Cars). It works great. Pay no attention to the mount and crappy bolt holding it on, it was a mockup.

http://www.circuitflex.com/WaterTemp.jpg
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by DaleMX
I ran mine (Datsun 280Z sender) on the passenger side block where the optional heater element would go (Thanks to Johns Cars). It works great. Pay no attention to the mount and crappy bolt holding it on, it was a mockup.

http://www.circuitflex.com/WaterTemp.jpg
even better if I can fit it down there. What size hole is that in the block?
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Old Sep 2, 2005 | 09:14 PM
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Im not sure, I got the adaptor from John's cars. I'll give him a call on tuesday. FWIW it looks like he took the brass plug that came in the engine and just drilled and tapped it to fit the sender.
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Old Sep 4, 2005 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Scooter70
The PCM needs the water temp for other functions too, so you do need it whether you use the PCM to trigger the fans or not.

-Matt
No.. I don't think it does.. I am pretty sure I did not hook the ECM up to the LS1 factor temp sendor.. but it is all fuzzy for some reason..

You are better off running independant fan relays.. I ran two with two seperate sensor bungs in the radiator..

You can see the relays and sensors in this pic.. the sensors at the two items right below the trans line and the relays are the two black boxes to the left of the pic.



It does need to know the air temp (IAT).. but could care less about water temp..

Last edited by Steve1969LS1; Sep 4, 2005 at 12:44 PM.
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Old Sep 4, 2005 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by DaleMX
Im not sure, I got the adaptor from John's cars. I'll give him a call on tuesday. FWIW it looks like he took the brass plug that came in the engine and just drilled and tapped it to fit the sender.
Speed and Performance sells the right adaptor you need for just a few bucks.. saves the headache..

You can see it in this picture just behind the header flange.. with the temp sensor installed.

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Old Sep 4, 2005 | 01:02 PM
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The two pin CTS as is called is not just for the fans, It is one of the main input sensors and must not be removed. Now if you use the 1998 CTS sensor it comes with three pin terminals one for the temp gauge. You will have to change the connector on the harness. Speed Scene Wiring does sell the pig tail for this. But take care for you must solder the wires and shrik wrap them. DO NOT UES BUTT CONNECTORS!!!! This will cause diveablity problem later on. There is nothing wrong with running two fan relays working off the PCMS fan trigers. If the temps have been programed then why not use them.
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Old Sep 4, 2005 | 01:08 PM
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AH!!! Hell!!! Speed Scene Wiring can also sell you the sensor with the pigtail, so you can put the sensor on the other side of the head and just use the temp gauge wire. With no problems at all. Autometer gauges will work with factory sensors.
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Old Sep 5, 2005 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Wing Zero
Autometer gauges will work with factory sensors.
So your saying that if someone wanted to replace their factory ls1 gauge cluster in an f-body with autometers, they could just wire the autometers in the factory harness? No need to run seperate sensors and wires??
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Old Sep 6, 2005 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmyp
So your saying that if someone wanted to replace their factory ls1 gauge cluster in an f-body with autometers, they could just wire the autometers in the factory harness? No need to run seperate sensors and wires??
Only if it is not part of the seral data (information goes to computer then to cluster via one wire). 98 ls1 temp gauge went to the cluster directly from the CTS. That is why there is a thrid wire in the CTS. I have used this set up before with a electric autometer temp and oil gauge on factory sensros.
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