What else would be needed to convert from LT1 to LSx?
http://www.turnkeyenginesupply.com/S...etpackages.htm
http://www.tacreationsusa.com/3_4_3_8_v6_to_ls1.htm
http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/v8swap.htm
http://www.hpsalvage.com/
http://shbox.com/page/index.html
The main things youll need
Ls1 kmember
Ls1 wiring harness modified to fit your year car
Ls1 pcm May want vats and emissions removed
Ls1 trans but youll need Lt1 trans Xmember
Custom fuel system
It depends on what year car and what year Ls1 but this should get you started .
Unless you just want to use the air box over rad. you dont need to change hoods . But if you do youll have to change the hole front end .
I believe I would opt for that package since it is cheapest, and I would likely go for headers + true duals and some kind of cold air induction upon install. I'd like to keep the LT1 style front end, so I think maybe a cowl hood would be a nice addition to clear it
I believe all the electronics I need are included:
"Coil packs, wires and plugs
Delphi ECM with TurnKey calibration
Custom marine grade engine wiring harness
Uses all OEM connectors
Electric fan controls"
As far as the fuel tank and pump and whatnot, I've read that LS1 people sometimes swap to the metal LT1 tank for some reason or another, I believe it was to sump it. So if that is applicable, then I should be set since the pumps and whatnot are all included:
"AN fitted fuel rails
EFI fuel pump kit
Pre-filter
Fuel pressure regulator
-6 & -8 Fuel line fittings with o-rings & crush washers"
I want something that is 12 second fast N/A, but it's just GOTTA have the nice deep rumpity-rump sound at idle. I think true duals with an X/H pipe dumped right before the axle could possibly achieve the sound I'm looking for. It's gotta be LOUD, turn heads, and make little kids cry.
Trending Topics
My car has a screwed up EGR valve now, so I'm getting about 11-12mpg, and I'm not really hurting because of that, so I think a carb'd car would be bearable. And a carb'd SBC has lots of room for improvement(eventually upgrade to fuel injection, forced induction is cheaper as opposed to the LT1, and the heads can flow better).
If I didn't need a rebuild, I wouldn't even bother trying any of these conversions and I WOULD just do H/C, exhaust, CAI, stall, and gears and be done with it.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
My car has a screwed up EGR valve now, so I'm getting about 11-12mpg, and I'm not really hurting because of that, so I think a carb'd car would be bearable. And a carb'd SBC has lots of room for improvement(eventually upgrade to fuel injection, forced induction is cheaper as opposed to the LT1, and the heads can flow better).
If I didn't need a rebuild, I wouldn't even bother trying any of these conversions and I WOULD just do H/C, exhaust, CAI, stall, and gears and be done with it.
EGR is screwed up? How did that happen? Thought it ran strong? Fixing an EGR problem is a lot easier than swapping a completely new engine (LS1) in that will still only put you in the mid 13's at most. A carb'd 383 should make it a soild high 14 second car getting worst MPG than it is now.
Hey, I didn't find a forum specific for introductions so I figured I say it in here, anyways:
I'm Tony, live in Virginia Beach, will be 17 on Aug. 7th and drive a 1994 Camaro Z28. It's my first car that I got from an older guy named Chip in Chesapeake for $2200. :nana: It's got 193,XXX miles on it, but runs hella strong and is in great condition.
I live in the Ocean Lakes area, if you're nearby hit me up, we can race/talk cars/whatever the hell.
Really you should slow down and figure out where you want and then ask questions on how to get there. Some of the quickest track LT1's are your neck of the woods, grant you they are not worth a damn on the street anymore and are nothing more than trailerqueens, but there are a few quick true street cars around there that can be driven daily. So finding a good combo of parts and tuning should not be hard.
EGR is screwed up? How did that happen? Thought it ran strong? Fixing an EGR problem is a lot easier than swapping a completely new engine (LS1) in that will still only put you in the mid 13's at most. A carb'd 383 should make it a soild high 14 second car getting worst MPG than it is now.
How do you figue FI is cheaper on a SBC than a LT1? Going to have a Lexan windshield so you can cut into the dash to put a 8-71 on top of it. Should look great a Pro-Mod street car that can't be driven on the street. Speaking of heads, how can a SBC head flow better than a LT1, considering they are almost indentical? The reason the LT1 made more power than a SBC is cause the heads were a better design flowing more, the bottom end is nothing more than a SBC with a Opti stuck on the front vice a distributor in the back, which by the way would give you more problems trying to swap a SBC into a 4th gen.
Really you should slow down and figure out where you want and then ask questions on how to get there. Some of the quickest track LT1's are your neck of the woods, grant you they are not worth a damn on the street anymore and are nothing more than trailerqueens, but there are a few quick true street cars around there that can be driven daily. So finding a good combo of parts and tuning should not be hard.
WRONG WRONG WRONG. You obviously dont have any idea what you are talking about. There are so many mistakes in here that i dont know where to begin.
1. You dont have to lose your wipers with a carb swap. How do i know? Ive done it.
2. The windsheild isnt touched in a carb swap unless you have a massive intake.
3. He doesnt want a new motor because is egr is messed up. He wants a new one because he has almost 200k on his. And most likely he would like to upgrade to something that has more power, less problems, and gets better gas mileage.
4. Since when would a carb 383 run 14's. HA! What a joke. Mine is a carbed 383 which should put down 450-500hp. And is isnt even that radical. Still pulls more than enough vaccuum for power brakes and ACC. It will run 12's easy and thats with a t56. Just think if you had that with a th350/th400 with a big stall.
5. The heads he would most likely get would be a ton cheaper than aftermarket lt1 heads and would flow better than his stockers.
6. The reason the lt1 made more power..... WTF? It has 275hp stock. Look back in the late 60's, what were the 350's making then? About 300hp and 350 lb ft. 275 is weak for a small block IMO.
7. OPTI SPARK SUCKS! Why would you want a distributor that you have to replace all the time?
8. The distributor in the rear isnt that big of a problem. I have a mallory unilite that i can get the cap off and service everything inside of it no problem. A lot of people go trigger/crab style. That is more expensive, but not much more than a new opti. Especially if you have to replace it a couple times.
All I have to say is that i wish you would give some useful info that he could actually use.
Now, back to the point. An ls1 swap would be really unique and i would like to do the same myself. But you might want to consider 383 h/c rebuild. Almost the same price as ls1 with a lot less problems of swapping it over. The only reason i went carbed is because i already had the motor and the car was a v6. So it was a no brainer.
1. You dont have to lose your wipers with a carb swap. How do i know? Ive done it.
2. The windsheild isnt touched in a carb swap unless you have a massive intake.
3. He doesnt want a new motor because is egr is messed up. He wants a new one because he has almost 200k on his. And most likely he would like to upgrade to something that has more power, less problems, and gets better gas mileage.
4. Since when would a carb 383 run 14's. HA! What a joke. Mine is a carbed 383 which should put down 450-500hp. And is isnt even that radical. Still pulls more than enough vaccuum for power brakes and ACC. It will run 12's easy and thats with a t56. Just think if you had that with a th350/th400 with a big stall.
5. The heads he would most likely get would be a ton cheaper than aftermarket lt1 heads and would flow better than his stockers.
6. The reason the lt1 made more power..... WTF? It has 275hp stock. Look back in the late 60's, what were the 350's making then? About 300hp and 350 lb ft. 275 is weak for a small block IMO.
7. OPTI SPARK SUCKS! Why would you want a distributor that you have to replace all the time?
8. The distributor in the rear isnt that big of a problem. I have a mallory unilite that i can get the cap off and service everything inside of it no problem. A lot of people go trigger/crab style. That is more expensive, but not much more than a new opti. Especially if you have to replace it a couple times.
All I have to say is that i wish you would give some useful info that he could actually use.
Now, back to the point. An ls1 swap would be really unique and i would like to do the same myself. But you might want to consider 383 h/c rebuild. Almost the same price as ls1 with a lot less problems of swapping it over. The only reason i went carbed is because i already had the motor and the car was a v6. So it was a no brainer.
I'm also looking at the idea of a H/C LT1 into a third gen. As soon as I have $1000 or so saved up, I'm going to buy a cheap beater car for use to save money on gas and insurance(I'll take the camaro off insurance). So I will be able to have my car on jack stands for a while and/or buy something else to make bitchin fast.




