Fuel Pump sugestions?
Also, how do I get from the Corvette fuel rail to the 1/2" and 3/8" stainless fuel lines that goes to the pump and return line. I will use the existing 3/8" hose bib as a return line.
Thanks,
TOM
Actually any good pump like a Walbro should work. If you can, you're better off with an in-tank pump for two reasons....1) the gas actually cools the pump and keeps it from physically overheating and 2) it helps cut the noise down.
I wanted to avoid the intank pump for several reasons, 1st if it fails on the road I would be in a world of hurt, 2nd my stock tank isn't realy setup for the intank pump. Will the hole for the stock sender and pickup fit the new style? I have welded on the tank so more welding is not a problem. How hard would it be to adapt something to my old tank and any sugestions?
By the way any updates in the works for the Monte? I refer to your site often, well thought out and put togeather.
Thanks, TOM
</font>
- <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">the reliability of these fuel pumps is so high that if you were to conduct a survey of how many people got stranded as a result of the pump failing I'm sure it would be an extremely small percentage (next to zip!). </font></li>
- <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">even if the in-tank pump did fail, you could temporarily splice in an electric pump into your fuel line to draw gas through the old pump to "limp" home.</font></li>
- <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">all you need to do is create a baffle around the base of the pump to prevent fuel slosh at low tank levels (you could use a plastic tray like the TBI trucks use)</font></li>
- <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If you have access to a late model TBI tank pick-up, you may want to see if it fits or modify it slightly (most GM stuff is surprisingly interchangeable!)</font></li>
- <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">the other advantage of using something like the stock TBI type pick-up is it will enable you to use the stock OEM fuel level gauge!
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Hope this helps <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
We did the same setup as John B did with the older C5 fuel rail, and return line. You could hack a stock F body pump assembly and setup a deadhead system as well, saving you the creation of a return line & whatnot.
Brian Green
If I can make the tank fit, I will just use that. It's a plastic tank, which I like. It also has all the modern charcoal canister /vapor recovery stuff which I also like (fuel vapor is by far the worst source of pollution from cars). Otherwise I will see about using the guts (everything is mounted together) in my stock tank.
I found that aftermarket pumps and FPRs were just way too expensive for me. Plus, to simplify things (and also save more dollars), I like the idea of using as much of the stock, cheap, readily available and already debugged FBody stuff. I'm gutting a Camaro guage cluster too.
I like that approach. Any chance you could take some measurements of the tank for me? Just height, width, length, plus the location of the filler tube and fuel outlets.
thanks!!
John Parsons
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TOM
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I agree I hated to cut the subframe for the A/C unit on one side but it worked out so good I am glad I did it. The tank is another thing, I will go with the stock tank and make it work. Thanks for the info on the intank pump it seems like the only way to go. It's just one more modification. A trip to the wrecking yard to get a pump mounting flange that will adapt to my tank will get me started.
Thanks again for the help,
TOM
So, presumably I will remember to go grab the paper and post it this evening....
The tank is sort of triangle shaped, so looking at it from the side, it's 7 inches tall on the narrow part and 12 inches tall on the fat part. Then it's 20 inches long and 32 inches wide.
I put it in my car today (well, not totally mounted, just temporary) and it fits pretty well. I have it in there backwards. In the FBody, the narrow part is forward. In my Z, I've got the fat part forwards. It looks pretty good. It also works out since the Z has the filler on the passenger side.
thanks for the info. My rear frame rails are 36" apart, so the tank will fit nicely. Sounds like something I'll pursue once I have the rest of my floors and trunk back in.
thanks,
John Parsons
I have a plastic fuel tank complete with the pump from a 2000 Trans Am. It came as part of the entire LS1 package I bought. I will probably end up re-working the stock fuel tank as suggested in this thread which would make this stuff available for sale. Keep it in mind as your plans take shape.
I'll do that. I see you're located on the east coast (I'm in Maryland), which will make it easier. Drop me an email when you decide what you want to do.
John Parsons
jparsons@bellatlantic.net
Great pics on your site. Quite an ambitious project!!
One "off topic" suggestion if I may. On your engine page I saw you using newspaper on your fenders to protect them. The best thing I have found for this job are the padded blankets movers use to keep furniture from getting knicked. Around here Home Depot sells them. I use a couple of bungee cords to hold them in place and don't have to worry about dropping a wrench, etc.
I don't have a tank at all right now ... so I think one out of a late model f-body is worth a good look.
John Parsons
http://www.pro-touring.com/featured_...7_chevy_ii.htm
<small>[ April 06, 2002, 09:21 PM: Message edited by: parsonsj ]</small>
Sometime in the distant future, the car will get properly painted. Until that time (and money), I'm happy to have a finish that I don't mind abusing.
This project is droning on, lemme tell ya. I just spent about 4 solid hours today wrestling with the fuel lines. Arrrgh. This steel line is not easy to work with. I made a miscalculation and had to try ahd straighten/rebend a section. Note how I didn't say that I had to kink/unkink/rekink the sections. Except of course that that's what happenned. Did I already say Arrrrgh?
Arrrgh. Also had to remove the driver's side arm, strut, and shaft, incl. brake line and cable in order to route them there lines. Managed to snap my tubing bender. Now it requires vise grips.
Now I'm pretty sure I already said Arrrgh.
But - Arrrgh.





