http://www.chitownsyty.com/bg/pics/C...nted/index.htm

 

Looks awesome! Has that thing been fired up yet? If so, how does it sound?

 

<img src="http://www.chitownsyty.com/bg/pics/Cobrapainted/DCP_0934.JPG" alt=" - " />

he's smoking the tires there. . .

The thing is nearly as quiet as a stock LS1 at idle. . .

Basically sounds like an LS1 w/ a catback. . .

He says it spins the tires like it's on ice, so it's never gonna hook up to turn a decent E.T.

 

No, that just means you're gonna need another pair of wheels with some sticky tires! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

I see some fun times ahead in that car. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

Lookin' good!

 

Good lord! That is the single coolest thing I've ever seen.

Obviously its an LS1/T56, but what else does it have. Painless wiring kit? I know the headers are hand-built or at least custom. Whats up with the fuel system? Rear end? Suspension? Plans?

TIA
Ryan

 

Damn that is one cool ride!!!! Do I see the alternator on the top of the engine??? I wish mine was like that. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

 

You can see all the info in the web page.

http://chitownsyty.com/bg/derfs_cobra.htm

it's a stock wiring harness. . . with any extra wires cut, and I know my bro. may have bought some connections or couple harnesses from Speartech.

My Dad cut & welded mandrel bend 1.75" J & U bends.

He moved the alternator to the top, cut off part of it, removed some material, and welded it back on. . . then got a nice short belt. No ps on this car.

 

The main page has a photo album with most of the pics corrupted (damn server move).

We used a factory harness that I modified (hacked a lot out of it - smog wiring/plugs, AC, rear 02's), then cleaned it all up. The kit car came with a Haywire harness for the chassis, with a few outputs/inputs for engine & gauges that we utilized. Got the DLC connector from John @ Speartech, worked like a charm. We're using LS1 edit to eliminate smog & any other offending codes, and have an 85mm MAF from one of the trucks in it (with modded MAF tables).

It sounds really mean at high RPM, but at idle it's almost disappointing.. my dad wants to get a cam just to roughen up the idle <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

We're told the exhaust note will get much louder due to heat burning the muffler material up after a few weeks of running.

Lots of other little issues we tackled one by one. Had to weld up 02 bungs into beautiful chrome side pipes <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> We used Autometer gauges, which seem to be working out really well, got some tips from guys on here about wiring those up (sending units and such).

Big thanks to anyone providing via posts/replies and such. John - thanks for the DLC connector & your valuable input, we did just as you had described for the oil pressure sender & coolant sensor sender. I think we have the check engine light functioning now as well (I think that it's set a code or two again - I have to inform Derf that you can't go starting the car with sensors unplugged and such <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> )

The fuel system has a new Walbro 255lph pump that I had from some previous project mounted on a custom hanger in a fuel cell that came in the kit. We used a 97-98 C5 fuel rail with return line, had some fittings welded on the rail to accomodate AN lines and such.

Our dad is kind of a maniac as far as working on cars. Last year he completely did a frame off resto on a 64 vette, sold it shortly after completion, this past year, it was a complete kit car buildup. Got the rolling chassis in October or so, stripped it down after getting the LS1 mounts & headers done, painted the frame/rearend/control arms with POR, boxed the Mustang control arms, put it all back together and started with the rest of the building. Few months later, it's what ya see now. Scary work pace, and he even has a regular job where he travels.. I'd say almost a week per month!

I think he's glad we talked him into the EFI though <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Nitto's or some sort of sticky tire is definitely next on the list.. anyone got any 275/40/17 Nitto/BFG DR/Hoosiers they wanna get rid of at a decent price?

Can't wait to start on the 5.3/4L60E install on my Jeep in the fall now <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Brian Green
89 TTA
01 Jeep TJ

<small>[ June 11, 2002, 10:19 AM: Message edited by: bgreen ]</small>

 

She looks AWESOME! With the incredible weight advantage, it's going to be a terror with a set of sticky tires! <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> If you're going to try a radial, I would definitely get the BFG's. They'll hook better than the Nittos will. The compound is very similar to an ET Street.
Congrats to y'all on one badass ride! You're building the perfect Cobra. Take notes Carroll Shelby! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

I was insane to think that I was the only one to think of putting an lS1 in a cobra kit. I am not only impressed with the work you have done with it, I am amazed at how fast you did this. I have just purchased a complete WS6 engine and t56 with every imaginable part stripped from the car. You could save me hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars if you could help me out with questions as I go. For instance, what template did you use or what kit did you get for the exhaust system (headers and side). God bless if you can help here.
Josh at feldmanns@excite.com

 

The side pipes are from the kit's manufacturer, B&B Manufacturing www.bandbroadster.com . Headers & motor mounts are the most difficult time with doing the buildup (I didn't find the harness/electrical side difficult at all, if you do your homework). We had to make custom mounts for the LS1 since B&B would only offer us mounts for Ford and regular SBC's. So we mocked everything up after hacking the regular mounts out, decided what we needed, made some plywood templates, that we actually bolted in place, then copied those in a beefy metal version. The headers were made by bolting the side pipes up as they need to fit, using the ASA header flanges that GM sells, then cutting & welding together a bunch of mandrel bent exhaust tubing (from Burns I believe). We estimated what we needed for the headers very accurately. I think we have only straight exhaust scraps now. So Derf (our dad) just tacked the headers up, made sure of fitment, took 'em off and welded them up for good. Plug access was crucial, since you can't get at them from a fenderwell, or underneath.

Startling as it seems, there are other Cobra LS1's built or being built. A guy in Australia has a very slick looking one going together. A guy in Wisconsin has a very nasty (nasty in the good sense) one with mods (cam, truck intake, headwork I believe). Club Cobra forums *had* a section for those using GM engines, called Bowtie Snakes or something, but I believe they eliminated that forum. Do a search there, and you can turn up old threads though.

Email me or post here if you have any other questions, need help etc. Much of the corrupt pictures on our website show buildup as it occurs http://chitownsyty.com/bg/derfs_cobra.htm . Unfortunately, due to a retarded ftp maneuver, I think I've lost the original pictures <img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" /> Course I can take detailed pics of anything you possibly need at this point (motor mounts/headers, whatever). Problem would be with copying our custom parts is that they'd be kit specific, as each kit is so different.

Brian G
89 TTA
01 Jeep TJ

 

Thanks Brian,
I contacted B&B and Brian there helped me with some information about putting there headers on a non B&B kit. Where did you get the flange that hooks up to the side pipes? I have roughly 80 pounds of wire on top of the engine that scares the be-gesus out of me. What references did you use or would you be interested in selling or borrowing them. You deleted alot of smog equipment. Did you use O2 simms for the back 2 sensors or won't they matter? I have the in tank fuel pump; can I make that work? Where did you get the throtle cable from? Sorry for the question. I feel as though I've hit a gold mine of info.
Josh

 

Thanks Brian,
I contacted B&B and Brian there helped me with some information about putting there headers on a non B&B kit. Where did you get the flange that hooks up to the side pipes?

Derf made those. You shouldn't have any problem having a place make this up for you if you can find a source for the material. Derf (my dad) is an ex-machinist, and we both have friends that weld & machine for a living.

I have roughly 80 pounds of wire on top of the engine that scares the be-gesus out of me.

Don't let it get to you, the wires/plugs are keyed, you can't screw up and plug them into the wrong spot (I didn't run across any that I could). I was intimidated by EFI wiring years ago...not anymore. The plugs are keyed so you can't screw 'em up, the harness lays a certain way and you can reason out what most stuff is.

Looking back...here's how I'd do the harness section again (and how I'm going to do it in my Jeep). Lay it out, off the engine. Determine what you need, what you don't. Remove the wiring you definitely DON'T need. Remove all the old electrical tape. Use some zip ties to hold the harness together at this point. Don't retape the whole thing, because as soon as you get the damn motor in the car and running, you'll find you have a problem and have to tear it apart, or you'll want to tear it apart and run wires for the gauge senders through there, or something else <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> So use some zip ties to hold it together in shape. When it comes time that it is completely proven and tested, use some good harness tape & loom to seal it up. Go through and make sure you have no open wires. There are a couple plugs that plug into chassis wiring that give power to the coils etc. We didn't use those, and at startup had no power to coils and a couple sensors. Be sure you double check all the wires... use volt meter to check circuits & continuity. Solder & heat shrink any new connections you make. I like doing this part of the job..

What references did you use or would you be interested in selling or borrowing them.

What year motor do you have? The schematic/PCM pinouts are going to be specific for that year. Here's a directory of pics I have that may help you http://www.chitownsyty.com/bg/LS1tech/.

LS1.com has some other good info:
http://www.ls1.com/index_faq.html
Check out the PCM pinouts link for sure... print those out, laminate them, whatever <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

A factory service manual would make the job MUCH easier. You may want to invest in one, use it for your job, then you could sell it and recoup some cash.

If you have a labeler, it'd make your job much cleaner as well. We used masking tape & a ballpoint pen.. it works but printed labels would make it cleaner, easier to read.

You deleted alot of smog equipment. Did you use O2 simms for the back 2 sensors or won't they matter?

We used LS1 Edit www.carputing.com to get rid of smog/02 codes & issues. Find some friends or other people to go in with on a cable and save yourself some cash on it. If you are doing a retrofit with no emissions worries, and will hack the factory stuff apart, doing LS1 edit is really almost a necessity I think. Any codes you set can be deleted, and the calibration can be altered. We are using an 85mm MAF, with the rescaled MAF tables for it, and we'll be able to do any other cal changes we want as well. Fan turn on temps, timing modifications, get rid of CAGS, VATS etc.

Look at it from the simplest standpoint... what do you need to make the engine run.. go from there. We didn't have to 'fake' any sensors or anything. LS1 Edit allowed us to remove codes etc, so we could remove anything we didn't want in there. Course we aren't 100% through with everything computerwise, so I won't say it's a complete success yet <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

I have the in tank fuel pump; can I make that work?

The factory LS1 pump? Sure, but it'll take some fabrication. We had to make the plate that mounted the pump in the fuel cell. You'll have to make up some fuel lines & fittings to go from the pump to the LS1 fuel rail. We used a Walbro & welded on fittings as this allowed us to use common AN fittings. Just drilled a hose through the plate for the electrical fittings, then silicone sealed it shut.

Where did you get the throtle cable from?

Lokar, custom length.

Sorry for the question. I feel as though I've hit a gold mine of info.

Not a problem, glad to help. You caught us at a good time, as it's all fresh in my mind.

Brian Green
89 TTA
01 TJ - to be powering the jeep soon -> http://www.chitownsyty.com/bg/5.3/DCP_0894.JPG

<small>[ June 12, 2002, 11:43 PM: Message edited by: bgreen ]</small>

 

Some great stuff!
My engine is the same as yours 2000 TA ws6 with 6000 miles w/ a t56.
So. I was thinking that once you were done with your references they might be for sale?
I also noticed from your picks that you didn't put in a power booster for the brakes? You don't thimk you would need one or were there clearance issures?
I thought about taking the hydraulic brake assist off of a lincoln that runs off the pwr steering pump as I also am going with manual steering.
Where did you snag the radiator from?
That 5.3l looks great!
I live 3 hrs from Chicago in Dubuque Iowa. Any possibility of a hands on look for a diehard chevy man? I think it would be worth the drive

 

The only references we kept handy were those we printed out from LS1.com and the pages I sent you a link to. Only other wiring schematic needed was the Haywire schematic for the car, and the gauges.

The kit doesn't use power brakes or power steering, and since this is a budget buildup (believe it or not) Derf didn't go through the trouble of adding them. The steering isn't bad he said, and we'll see how the brakes turn out.

The radiator is a piece off of Ebay. We mocked up what we would need out of cardboard, then saw what sizes were available cheap, created a mockup of that size to check it would fit, then bought it. It almost works TOO good. Another good idea (now that I look back) is to use 2 fans. If you setup the relays correctly with the output(s) of the PCM, you will have high speed & low speed operation this way. With a single fan, it is always on high speed, and is LOUD. If the car had low speed as well as high speed, it'd probably run fine in low speed mode all the time, as the radiator pulls a LOT of heat out. One side is hot to the touch, other side feels near ambient it seems. We haven't driven it on a hot day yet to stress it, but its performance has impressed me already.

Sure, you can take a cruise out and scope it out. Might wanna wait a coupla weeks until it's street legal. Had some problems getting it registered, but they should be fixed soon. email me about it if ya like briang@syty.net

Brian Green
89 TTA
01 Jeep TJ

 

Put some new pictures up of the Cobra, as well as a video.

Page with new pics

Page with video

Right click, save as, should give best results for the video.

Brian Green
89 TTA
01 Jeep TJ

 

That thing is ridiculously sweet! Any estimate on the total weight of the car? Total cost of buildup so far?

 

Supposed to be 2350 lbs with a regular Small Block Chevy, not sure what it will turn out with an LS1 & 6 speed. We'll see.

Probably close to $20k into it now, I'm guesstimating. We're doing pretty good on a budget. Lots of labor, and custom mounting & fabrication. Can't buy those headers anywhere <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Brian Green
89 TTA
01 Jeep TJ

 

I have been studying the wiring and it is still a huge task. Looking through your pictures I wondered what the canister mounted to the passenger foot box above the header was. I also wondered what problems you had with registration?
Thanks again for your help and I will e-mail you about an opportunity to visit you and the project.

josh

 

Canister is just a coolant overflow bottle. Not a lot of places to put it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

I'll see if I can go through the 2000 PCM wiring to give you some direction.

Brian Green
89 TTA
01 Jeep TJ