Has anyone put a LS1 engine in a C4 Corvette?
#21
C4's pretty much dont wheel hop period.
I cut my c-beam horizonitally about 75 degree angle across it, and lengthed it by tig welding thick aluminum in the middle and then straps to strengthen. Its very clean and fits perfect on both ends (I used a c4 700r4 tailhousing on a th350 tranny and it bolts right together)
A C4 with a dana 44 and c-beam setup should never wheel hop, and my c4 is probably the hardest hooking car with the same size tire ive ever seen.... It leaves on 1.3-4 60 foots and pretty much leaves on as much spray as you can put to it on the street with its 28x14.50 Hoosiers on 600-800 rwhp etc....
I dont know why youd want to go the 6spd route really, if i wanted the over drive, a simple th350/400 with a gear vendors (makes it a 6spd auto) would cost close to the same once you factor in the t56, upgraded flywheel/clutch, shifter and all the other parts youll have to fab into your car.
Plus with a ls1 and th350 in my c4 my car weighs approx 2700 lbs
I cut my c-beam horizonitally about 75 degree angle across it, and lengthed it by tig welding thick aluminum in the middle and then straps to strengthen. Its very clean and fits perfect on both ends (I used a c4 700r4 tailhousing on a th350 tranny and it bolts right together)
A C4 with a dana 44 and c-beam setup should never wheel hop, and my c4 is probably the hardest hooking car with the same size tire ive ever seen.... It leaves on 1.3-4 60 foots and pretty much leaves on as much spray as you can put to it on the street with its 28x14.50 Hoosiers on 600-800 rwhp etc....
I dont know why youd want to go the 6spd route really, if i wanted the over drive, a simple th350/400 with a gear vendors (makes it a 6spd auto) would cost close to the same once you factor in the t56, upgraded flywheel/clutch, shifter and all the other parts youll have to fab into your car.
Plus with a ls1 and th350 in my c4 my car weighs approx 2700 lbs
#22
I had a 700R4 in it previously. I didn't mind its performace. But bottom line is that its a sports car. If it were an all out drag car yea I think the automatic would be of far more value. Personnelly I think a manual is the only way a corvette should be made.
Also a T-56 can't be all that heavy I mean no large *** torque converter... much smaller housing less rotational mass over all.
Also a T-56 can't be all that heavy I mean no large *** torque converter... much smaller housing less rotational mass over all.
#23
If I did the swap it would be a track car used around larger road courses (Road Atlanta, VIR). 2,700lbs wth a mild ls1 at 400rwhp would work great.
A T56 is much lighter than a ZF6 or 4+3. I've owned a 93 LT1/ZF6 and a FRC with Z06 M12 and Z06 suspension upgrades. A C4 can be made to handle with a Z06 with a few mods especially at 2,700lbs.
A T56 is much lighter than a ZF6 or 4+3. I've owned a 93 LT1/ZF6 and a FRC with Z06 M12 and Z06 suspension upgrades. A C4 can be made to handle with a Z06 with a few mods especially at 2,700lbs.
#26
Originally Posted by ScandalouseLs1C4
i wouldn't put it behind a th350 either.... I'd use a powerglide or i'd use a T-56tko but probably a powerglide
Wow thats a pretty horrible idea....
powerglide would be horrible choice behind most full weight street cars........
th350 built right can live into the 8's....th400 in the 7's on some cars
#27
what kinda displacment or power adders do you have to get 800 rwhp... and if you wouldn't use a power glide why wouldn't you use a T-56? Its good enough for lingenfelter's big power vette's... and a power glide is a drag trans... i never said it would be a good choice for a fuel efficient trans. And how do you think any dana is gonna handle that if you drive it hard....? any trans can work with the right rear so long as they all complement each other.
#28
Originally Posted by ScandalouseLs1C4
what kinda displacment or power adders do you have to get 800 rwhp... and if you wouldn't use a power glide why wouldn't you use a T-56? Its good enough for lingenfelter's big power vette's... and a power glide is a drag trans... i never said it would be a good choice for a fuel efficient trans. And how do you think any dana is gonna handle that if you drive it hard....? any trans can work with the right rear so long as they all complement each other.
Well if you refer to my other posts around here, i had 630 rwhp with a 346" mild setup on alot of spray.
Now its a 408" with a fogger glidden kit......
So far on completely stock suspension in everyway with nothing but adjustable shocks and prostars on it with et streets, the car has went 1.4 60' foots dead hooking. It yanks the wheels, i dont leave on spray, i grab it a few feet out to make sure to not push the rearend as much as i can. It would probably go 1.3's leaving on the unit.
any kind of stick shift would not live with a dana 44, if you went solid axle then sure go for it.
Dana 44's just dont live with high horsepower sticks, they break spindles, halfshafts, spider gears and cases constantly.
I have probably the strongest Dana 44 in existance and im very glad to see that might will hopefully make it through a year of 8 second passes.
My Dana 44 has Dennys Nitrous Ready halfshafts, Toms Diff custom posi/spider gear setup and the entire thing was cryo treated which i think added 30-50% strength to it and is the only reason it hasnt broken.
Heres a pic of mine going 1.42 60 ft
Last edited by C4VetteLS1; 08-04-2004 at 03:45 AM.
#29
The Dana can be made to live into the 9s. The Diff is very close to the Viper unit. Half shafts and spindles are the weak links.
http://www.whiteracingproducts.com/ and Speed Demon in TX sold billet rear spindles. Kurt White was running the spindles on his radical 415 ZR1 with a Direct Port. That car sounds
http://www.whiteracingproducts.com/ and Speed Demon in TX sold billet rear spindles. Kurt White was running the spindles on his radical 415 ZR1 with a Direct Port. That car sounds
#30
I agree C4vette we are on the same side. Any how this is my goal maybe this will help you and or anyone else as well as me. I'm trying to make a street driven strip\road course race car. I would like to run in the low 10's or hight 9's. I'm so far planning things this way. Kooks headers, CnC'd Ls6 heads and Hot Ls1 Cam form GMPP.
I wanna run a TKO 5 or 6 Speed with either a 373 rear or higher.
C.H.P. magazine rated that combo (the engine) at 510 crankshaft Hp with only F body headers (not equal lengths like i want)
What i am wondering is what my combo might actually get me and what should i do if it doesn't quite meet my performance goals....?
If anyone has any ideas please shoot them my way....
Peace out C4vette
Eric
I wanna run a TKO 5 or 6 Speed with either a 373 rear or higher.
C.H.P. magazine rated that combo (the engine) at 510 crankshaft Hp with only F body headers (not equal lengths like i want)
What i am wondering is what my combo might actually get me and what should i do if it doesn't quite meet my performance goals....?
If anyone has any ideas please shoot them my way....
Peace out C4vette
Eric
#32
What do you mean by wiring and accessories mounting?
If you mean Engine wiring and accessories such as alternator mouting and power steering and A\C this place will have all of that as well as (engine mounts ECM's and a bunch of other goodies) http://www.hotrodlane.cc/
If you mean Engine wiring and accessories such as alternator mouting and power steering and A\C this place will have all of that as well as (engine mounts ECM's and a bunch of other goodies) http://www.hotrodlane.cc/
#33
I'll upload some pictures this weekend. I used a driver side alternator bracket from street and performance (the link above this). It came with a polished heim joint style tensioner (very nice) and fits nicely. I only have the alternator running off the belt...electric water pump, no p/s or a/c
#34
I have a f body wire harness and front brackets. im not going to run a/c yet. and was thinking of making my alternator bracket to mount top left but i think i will try street and performance. thanks. did any of you guys use a factory Ls1 harness instead of a painless kit?
#35
Originally Posted by lowcal1
I have a f body wire harness and front brackets. im not going to run a/c yet. and was thinking of making my alternator bracket to mount top left but i think i will try street and performance. thanks. did any of you guys use a factory Ls1 harness instead of a painless kit?
Anyone wired up the gauges or the speedo, etc... ?
#38
As for guage wiring -
tach wire up is cake just connect the tach input to the pcm output and make the adjustments in the programming (G1204 and G1205 placed from 6 as they are from the factory to 3 to get a standard V8 output).
I'm still working on the speedo, but should be do-able. The pcm has a vss output that is adjustable. DO NOT PLACE THIS VALUE BELOW 1000...you will kill the pcm.
Oil pressure is also easy...just connect the guage wire to the oil temp sensor on the ls.
Coolant Temp will require you to buy a sensor from a 98 camero or thread the block for your sensor. The 98 cameros still had the old dashes setup for the sensor we have with a 12 or 9V source (can't remember). However the pcm uses a 5v two wire sensor. GMs temporary fix for this was a three wire sensor...one for the dash the other two for the pcm. You will also need the pigtail for the sensor.
Last edited by turbogtu; 10-07-2009 at 06:19 PM.
#39
What else am I gon need for my swap? I already have...
1984 Corvette
Complete LSx Engine
Transmission Debating(4L60e or 700r4)
98 F Body engine harness & Computer
LSx Mounting Brackets
What else am I missing? I don't care bout or have plans for the A/C nor Powersteering really just want to get it moving. Thanks guyz
1984 Corvette
Complete LSx Engine
Transmission Debating(4L60e or 700r4)
98 F Body engine harness & Computer
LSx Mounting Brackets
What else am I missing? I don't care bout or have plans for the A/C nor Powersteering really just want to get it moving. Thanks guyz