ls1 into v6 car
LS1, Trans, Radiator, steering rack, engine harness, pcm, k-member, trans crossmember, v8 guages, v8 front springs (LS1 is heavier), also this would be a good time to buy a 12 bolt rear and throw it in there. and little things like heater hoses, air lid, throttle cables. im pretty sure thats it. and if u know what ur doing there is no reason this should take maybe 12-15 hours.
those of u who say its cheaper to just buy an ls1... u need to take the fact that just about everything we need to change for the swap would be stuff to upgrade anyways. if u can find the right deals u can pay less for the swap then a new ls1 car. right now im sitting at just under $7500 and im just finishing getting the little things. and my car was in mint condition with like 40k miles so i paid a little more for it.
cheapest way to get an LS1, blown 3.4 V6 A4 with a hard top. swap in the nessecary stuff and i bet you could have it put together for under 5k with upgraded parts
99 still hasthe electric throttle
You'll need a cable-type gas pedal and the cable, if you don't have it
already.
flip the cable bracket over (the one on the intake) to get it
closer
to the tb.
Fueling - you'll need v8 lines, or a 97 vette rail and fpr to keep your
return line. the vette rail and fpr will let you keep your lines and pump.
(v8 is returnless) You might want to get a higher capacity pump. I think the v6 is the same
but not 100% sure on that.
You'll need the cross-member for the tranny.
Wiring mods - INJ1 is hot on the v6 chassis harness, and drives all 6 cylinders.
INJ2 is labeled in the fuse block, but has no wire on the v6 chassis.
On the v8, the cylinders are divided between INJ1 and INJ2.
you could jump a 12v switched feed, on the pcm side of the 3 connectors
on the fenderwell. or take it from the rear o2 heater feed (if you dont
keep the rear o2 sensors), and jump it to INJ2. So it's hot in the
pcm harness, even though the wire is missing in the chassis harness.
The o2 wire is on a different connector than INJ2, but since they
are so close together on the fenderwell it didn't matter.
12volt switched power on the INJ2 circuit to drive the
injectors and coils.
No other changes for dash or chassis wiring.
Cooling - heater hoses and radiator hoses, and the v8 radiator.
Make sure you get the maf sensor and tb with the swap engine.
Exhaust - you'll need from the manifolds all the way to the bumper.
(or headers) Include the hanger on the side of the tranny.
Steering - the ls1 rack, and the steering coupler.The couplers are the same length, but I think the v8 is just a little more
narrow, giving a little more clearance at the #1 exhaust tube.
Somebody said the ends would have been 90 degrees off, if the v6 coupler is kept, but I dont know. Apparently the steering wheel would have been rotated
a quarter turn.
ABS/PCM/diff should probably match what you already have.
(3-channel vs 4-channel)
Not sure what you have to do if they don't match.
Same thing for traction control.
I don't know what you need to do about
the lines for the a/c, but I've heard you have to get a set
made up with v6 ends at the firewall and v8 ends at the compressor.
I think there's a good chance the complete set of v8 lines would bolt up.
I'm told the 99-02 are all interchangeable. It's just the 98 that's got to
be a 98.
I got this info from talking to John Duncan <johnduncan10@hotmail.com>
I still need a little help.. I would like to know for sure if i can keep the stock 3.8 fuel pump ... and about the wiring... ANY HELP OR PICTURES OF WIRING would be greatly thanked
chris
we all have info and know what to do. what i want to know is who's going to be the first to start. god i hope its not going to be me.
PS i know its already been done but no one's really documented everything very well and taken pics of everything.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Anthony
Thanks for your responses!
I bought my IROC camaro for 200 bucks (its an 89).
Ill go first with the conversion if you plan on waiting that long
and document it of course. I need to work on figuring out all the neccessary parts "Wiring mods - INJ1 is hot on the v6 chassis harness, and drives all 6 cylinders.
INJ2 is labeled in the fuse block, but has no wire on the v6 chassis.
On the v8, the cylinders are divided between INJ1 and INJ2.
you could jump a 12v switched feed, on the pcm side of the 3 connectors
on the fenderwell. or take it from the rear o2 heater feed (if you dont
keep the rear o2 sensors), and jump it to INJ2. So it's hot in the
pcm harness, even though the wire is missing in the chassis harness.
The o2 wire is on a different connector than INJ2, but since they
are so close together on the fenderwell it didn't matter.
12volt switched power on the INJ2 circuit to drive the
injectors and coils.
No other changes for dash or chassis wiring."
i am looking fo a ls1
i can get one for 1000 out of an 00 t/a with 62,000 miles on it but the harnes is cut and all the accessories are off

i think im going 2 just get a complete dropout
99 still hasthe electric throttle
You'll need a cable-type gas pedal and the cable, if you don't have it
already.
flip the cable bracket over (the one on the intake) to get it
closer
to the tb.
Fueling - you'll need v8 lines, or a 97 vette rail and fpr to keep your
return line. the vette rail and fpr will let you keep your lines and pump.
(v8 is returnless) You might want to get a higher capacity pump. I think the v6 is the same
but not 100% sure on that.
You'll need the cross-member for the tranny.
Wiring mods - INJ1 is hot on the v6 chassis harness, and drives all 6 cylinders.
INJ2 is labeled in the fuse block, but has no wire on the v6 chassis.
On the v8, the cylinders are divided between INJ1 and INJ2.
you could jump a 12v switched feed, on the pcm side of the 3 connectors
on the fenderwell. or take it from the rear o2 heater feed (if you dont
keep the rear o2 sensors), and jump it to INJ2. So it's hot in the
pcm harness, even though the wire is missing in the chassis harness.
The o2 wire is on a different connector than INJ2, but since they
are so close together on the fenderwell it didn't matter.
12volt switched power on the INJ2 circuit to drive the
injectors and coils.
No other changes for dash or chassis wiring.
Cooling - heater hoses and radiator hoses, and the v8 radiator.
Make sure you get the maf sensor and tb with the swap engine.
Exhaust - you'll need from the manifolds all the way to the bumper.
(or headers) Include the hanger on the side of the tranny.
Steering - the ls1 rack, and the steering coupler.The couplers are the same length, but I think the v8 is just a little more
narrow, giving a little more clearance at the #1 exhaust tube.
Somebody said the ends would have been 90 degrees off, if the v6 coupler is kept, but I dont know. Apparently the steering wheel would have been rotated
a quarter turn.
ABS/PCM/diff should probably match what you already have.
(3-channel vs 4-channel)
Not sure what you have to do if they don't match.
Same thing for traction control.
I don't know what you need to do about
the lines for the a/c, but I've heard you have to get a set
made up with v6 ends at the firewall and v8 ends at the compressor.
I think there's a good chance the complete set of v8 lines would bolt up.
I'm told the 99-02 are all interchangeable. It's just the 98 that's got to
be a 98.
I got this info from talking to John Duncan <johnduncan10@hotmail.com>
I still need a little help.. I would like to know for sure if i can keep the stock 3.8 fuel pump ... and about the wiring... ANY HELP OR PICTURES OF WIRING would be greatly thanked
chris
Do I have to do anything with the interior besides swapping pedal assemblies?
Can I just "unplug" my V6 engine harness and "plug in" the V8 engine harness or is there splicing involved?
Last edited by ZexGX; Aug 12, 2009 at 03:21 AM.






