Cool thing about this is that since it is gm there are so many damm options available for us. Now if I could just decide on either purchasing hpt tuners or paying someone else to tune it I'll be ahead of the game. For those of you who have done the f-body manifolds how much length do you have to add to them. If someone has some real good pictures with some lengths of the pipe to weld in for the driver and passenger side I would appreciate it. I'd like to weld it all up beforehand and slam it in all at once. Right now I am building the harness and trying to round up a few odds and ends. Cool part is I already have the 4.3 and tranny sold and I am going to put it in a 2.2 truck for a friend of mine. So I'll acutally wind up with some money in da bank doing the v8 swap.

 

are the c6 accessories the same or no. if not will they work

 

I think they're the same, but have no documentation to back that up.

The LS2 water pump is shorter, but the belt runs in the same place as the LS1 C5 setup. All of the length difference is in the pulley. LS2 is flat, LS1 is dome shaped.

'JustDreamin'

 

vette accessories just package in tighter to give you more clearqnce. I don't see why they would be much different vette stuff has stayed fairly normal since 97. It looks like they just reskinned it and left a lot of the driverain and accessory stuff alone.

 

I think I just cut the flanges off right at the weld, installed the manifolds and tacked on about a 16 inch piece of 2.5 inch tubing at the angle I wanted. Marked them to length, pulled them out, finished welding them and then cut them off at the mark.Then welded on those v-clamp flanges. Then put back in and tacked up the y-pipe sections with flanges attached. Pulled that out and finished welding them up. Can't give you pictures, I'm working out of town and don't have with me. Sorry. If had to do over again, would use the cup and cone type flanges for connecting the y-pipe to the manifolds. Easier to line up in my opinion.

 

Well step one is under way. I began gutting the forward harness of an f-body for the fusebox and fan relays. Tomorrow night I'll start gutting a 2.2 engine harness. I got one at a salvage yard and can gut it till I get to the basics and then start marrying the 02 f-body harness in and see where everything lines up at. I am planning on keeping a bunch of the complicated factory stuff but it will make it that much cooler when done. The factory fuse blocks will keep relay and fuse changes to a no brainer. here goes

 

TTT I can't stand it when this thread gets so far back.

 

no one has anything to talk about anymore... im still working on getting mine working with some new goodies over the winter.... good news is the snow should start melting soon!

 

I bought my QA1's for the front need to get the Global West control arms then get the rear done. thats sorta news.


btw anybody got a good deal on an LS2 (GTO/CTS) M6?

 

I got a question,on the first generations,can you ust the stock mastercyl and the clutch line on the t56 slave?Im going to put a "stock"ls1 t56 in here.Then decide if its worth it to put the heads,cam,intake,Tb basically full bolt ones.meaning streetable,if not,there is no since in it in my opinion.well,for what im doing it for.

 

hey whats up everyone, dammit man we cant let this thread go dead,after all this is the coolest thread lol,well i have my ls1 temporarily nestin in my truck,im waitin on my oil pan and mounts from turbo time,which should be here in a few days as soon as i get stuff going together i will definately post some pics,well anyway i have searched in this thread for any info on under drive pulleys and i did not find any info that i was lookin for[i probably my blinders on lol]i have a 99 ls1 that i want to put on a under drive pulley,but im unsure if i should due to i run a high powered stereo system and i dont want to starve the system at all for power,i am currently using the vette accessarys and dont know if i should get the vette pulley or the under drive pulley?and if i do run the under drive pulley do i have to change any of my other pulleys to acommodate the under drive one,woooo sorry about he novel here guys,id like THANK EVERYONE here for their time input,pics,and sugestions and just being fellow motorheads with the same interests as me,well heres to ya for the ones that have completed their swaps and to those of us who have not[but will be there soon] keep up the good work,peace out

 

I think I followed that post....

Sounds to me like you're going to need a standard crank pulley / harmonic balancer, as the underdrive is likely to not give you adequate charging for your usage (stereo, electric fans, etc).

If you decide to get an underdrive crank pulley / balancer, make sure you get one for a Vette application (they are available), as the F-body will require you to modify the rest of the accessories.

'JustDreamin'

 

has anyone on here with a blazer used the ls2 oil pan. if so does anyone have any good pics of where to cut before the motor was put in. if i remember right,it seems like i read on here that the ls2 pan will fit in a blazer better than an s10 cause of higher motor mounts but is this true.

 

So I have heard and actually seen that you can put an LS2 pan in a blazer and if you space the motor up slightly you can clear without cutting at all...just you have to bend the lip on the cab around the trans tunnel back...but its very easy. There is someone on here though that has an LS2 pan on a blazer i just cannot remember his name sorry

 

yes on the ls2pan in a blazer.I dont know if he is on here or not but on s10forum

 

Hey S10-den...do you know if the first gen blazers and the second gen blazers both had this extra lift of the motor mounts....cause i am seriously considering a first gen build next....and would love a first gen blaze...so if you ...or anyone for that matter knows...id appreciate it

 

Jhankinson they both do. I have an 85 with the front clip off and a 2000 and both of them have it.

 

Here is a couple of pix of where I cut the crossmember to fit the LS2 oil pan.


I also had to do some clearancing on the crossmember to allow the drain plug to be removed and reinstalled. sorry no pic on that. I used the Trans-Dapt mounts and cut the ear off that would pick the motor up. So you might not have to cut the crossmember out. However you will have to cut the A/C box for the last coil because my rear most coil hit with my engine mounted as low as it would go. The brake booster was in the way of the rear most coil on the drivers side too. What I did was mount the coil higher on the bracket and make an MSD wire for the rear two cylinders.

 

yea 1badjimmy,if you would have used the top holes,you wouldnt have had to notch the crossmember,but like you said,the coil issue on the blazers because of the inch and half on the motor towers.but thats easy fix.so what you puting in jimmy?

 

jhankinson,Hows the thing been running?,long time no see