How many ls1/mustangs are finished?
#2
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it depends on what year, body style, wheels/tires and accessories, etc. most foxes with a metal roof will be in the 2800-3200 lbs. SNs and verts are heavier.
i really wished i weighed my 4cyl coupe before i started. after installing the motor/trans/accessories, my car sits up about three inches higher than before. it may have to do with my AJE kmember though.
i really wished i weighed my 4cyl coupe before i started. after installing the motor/trans/accessories, my car sits up about three inches higher than before. it may have to do with my AJE kmember though.
#3
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Mine will be done as soon as I get my lazy butt out there to put the wiring harness and interior in the car... lol. One of the first places that car is headed, is to the scales and the track
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Originally Posted by nuckifuts
it depends on what year, body style, wheels/tires and accessories, etc. most foxes with a metal roof will be in the 2800-3200 lbs. SNs and verts are heavier.
i really wished i weighed my 4cyl coupe before i started. after installing the motor/trans/accessories, my car sits up about three inches higher than before. it may have to do with my AJE kmember though.
i really wished i weighed my 4cyl coupe before i started. after installing the motor/trans/accessories, my car sits up about three inches higher than before. it may have to do with my AJE kmember though.
I wanted to weigh mine too before I got started, but I got bored and started stripping it down one weekend.
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Originally Posted by fast347
Go to hotrodgossip.com they have a picture of Paco's ls1 power coupe mustang and how it run's tha is one fast little ford
Is it the maroon one with lme on the back window?
#9
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Originally Posted by nuckifuts
it depends on what year, body style, wheels/tires and accessories, etc. most foxes with a metal roof will be in the 2800-3200 lbs. SNs and verts are heavier.
i really wished i weighed my 4cyl coupe before i started. after installing the motor/trans/accessories, my car sits up about three inches higher than before. it may have to do with my AJE kmember though.
i really wished i weighed my 4cyl coupe before i started. after installing the motor/trans/accessories, my car sits up about three inches higher than before. it may have to do with my AJE kmember though.
2800 to 3200 before the ls1 correct?
Is it better to start out with a 4 cyl coupe?
#10
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Originally Posted by Clean94Z
Is it better to start out with a 4 cyl coupe?
4 cyl. vs. 8 cyl. - I don't think it matters either way. There are suspension parts that must be upgraded with the 4 cyl. The rear end is a 7.5, which needs to be upgraded to a 8.8 and I think I read somewhere that the front spindles are different on a 4 cyl. car. Of course none of this matters if you are upgrading to aftermarket suspension.
The 4 cyl. cars are cheaper to buy though and are less likely to be modded, so you don't have to deal with someone else's mess. On the flip side, if you part out the 4 cyl. you probably won't get as much money for the parts. So, all in all, I think it balances out.
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I picked up a completely straight 4-banger coupe for $500 w/ title. If you're notch weighs more than 2800 w/ an LSx, you must have a dead hooker in the trunk. Mine w/ no motor weighs in at a svelte 24xx#s.
#13
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Y'all aren't really trying that hard on the weight reduction. I had an '86 LX coupe with and iron block/alum. headed 302 that weighed in just under 2500lbs ready to run, minus my fat *** though! Don't get me wrong, this was a completly gutted car. It had front seats and a dash shell and no other interior pieces. I ripped the entire wiring harness out of the car and ran only what I needed, cut ALL unnessecary brackets off. There were even a few places where I decided a hole saw would take off some weight! The only thing that I never got around to doing was getting rid of the glass and running lexan.
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I'm not building a theft recovery, I'm building a nice comfy street car -- that goes 10's (or faster) Front seats, back seats, A/C, power locks, power windows, power brakes, power steering, etc. If I come in under 3000 with me in it, I'll be very pleased
#15
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Originally Posted by Brains
I'm not building a theft recovery, I'm building a nice comfy street car -- that goes 10's (or faster) Front seats, back seats, A/C, power locks, power windows, power brakes, power steering, etc. If I come in under 3000 with me in it, I'll be very pleased
same here. with my five lug discs, speedlines, full interior, subs with amps and all the other bs that goes along with it adds up. it is still lighter than an Fbody or iron block 302 but mine wont be a feather light.
On another note i am going to obtain a shifter cable from a 2000ish S10 blazer with center console i am quite certian i can retain the factory shifter for the sleeper look.
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Mine weighed 2500 w/out driver. Stock, bolt-on motor, TH350 with a tight 3500 converter setup for nitrous(tall tire too) - ran 7.00's in the 1/8th. I sold it before I sprayed it...
I'm pretty confident it would have gone high 5's. 1/8th mile.
I'm pretty confident it would have gone high 5's. 1/8th mile.
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Mine weighed in at 24XX without driver but I havent run it yet. Its pretty much gutted has a 5 lug conversion and disks all the way around. I have AJE k-member, coil overs, anti rollbar, 90/10 up front 50/50s in back, 10 point cage, 4400 stall, aftermarket upper/lower control arms, manual rack,subframes, etc. Cant wait to run this with its projected 620-50 RWHP It should be on the road in about 3 weeks though...
Last edited by m1a2drvr; 02-14-2006 at 10:30 AM.