kenm240

iTrader: (2)

It's been awhile since I've given an update on the progress of the car. I've finished the headers and the exhaust...I can post pictures of the header clearance and pictures of the headers themselves later this week. My advice for future 240 LS1 swappers is to use the Skyline crossmember like Alex (Slo_240sx) did these headers are what held the project up for 5 or 6 weeks.

I drove it aruond the block for the first time about 3 weeks ago...it is fast..and i haven't given it much more than 60% throttle in 1st and 2nd gear...I can't wait to see what WOT feels like...the response is awesome.

I ran into a couple of snags that held up progress on the car...I'm running an aftermarket clutch master cylinder and had to drill a hole in the driver's side footwell to bleed the clutch...it was mentioned before earlier in this post that it would be a good idea to install a remote bleeder that many of the FC LS1 guys do...my advice is...DO IT!! Install the remote bleeder when the engine and tranny are out of the car....it will make your life much easier.

I purchased my master cylinder from Hinson...they claimed it was a bolt in master cylinder...it's not..I had to make an adapter plate to bolt it to the firewall...took about 4 hours to get that thing in...I waited 3 weeks for it and then saw the same master cylinder in stock at Jegs....

So the car is basically done...I just have to wire in the Dakota Digital Speedometer adapter and purchase a tach adapter from Dakota Digital as well...I ran into a wiring issue that was I just solved a couple of days ago but haven't had time to drive it much...I'll try to post a video this weekend of it driving around..hopefully I"ll hit the track next weekend and the dyno shortly there after.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

got a part # from jegs?

How does the clutch feel now?

Do you think it was worth going through hinson just to advoid the headaches associated with the lines?

Keep it comin, can't wait to see what you post in the next couple of weeks. I'm hanging on every word in an attempt to keep future headaches to a minimum.


I finally pick up my '98 SE Saturday!!!

My cousin (it's been parked at his house for months) said 10 people have stopped by and made offers on it (there is no for sale sign) since "Tokyo Drift" came out.
I told him first $4500 can have it, then I'll find a cheap s13 shell and use the money I made to finish this bastard this summer!

DOHCsky

iTrader: (3)

i think i speak for everyone else when i say "PICS please". what headers did you end up using? any thought on making some mount kits?

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

when was this? i told them the master didnt fit, are they still selling the one with 2.25'' distance between the mounting points? if so sorry about that, i told them it was not bolt on

Slo_240sx

iTrader: (17)

Hehe I have the on the are selling from Tilton... I made mine fit. New backing on the pedal with two new bolts and new holes drilled for it to be clocked straight. 4 hrs worth of work. Gay.
-Alex

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

i made mine fit too, but they shouldnt be selling a bolt on item that isnt bolt on :-/

kenm240

iTrader: (2)

I purchased the master cylinder from Hinson sometime in Mid May. I specifically asked him if it was bolt in and he said yes. Then I asked him how long installation would take and I was told 1 hour. For those interested it's a Wilwood Combination ''Remote'' Master Cylinder Kit with a 7/8" bore part #950-260-3376 from Jegs.

Needless to say I was quite frustrated when I found out it was no where near bolt on...it all worked out because I had the means available to make it work. I'll probably shoot him an e-mail over the next few days and let him know.

I tried to take a few pictures just now but they didn't come out so I'll take some tomorrow when I have better lighting. I got to drive it around a good bit this weekend and so far I like it....there's a few bugs to work out but it'll be at the track next weekend for some 1/4 mile times.

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

looking to pick up a 240 shell next week, for 100$
looks like ill be in the 240 LSx club in the future
howver i will prolly be using one of my iron 6.0 witha th350

thanx to all for the great info

the.erinyes

iTrader: (3)

First I just want to say you guys have done awesome jobs making the swaps. I am selling the RB25DET setup and putting in the LS1. Can you guys post up more details: like which radiator you used? Parts list? Intake piping and filter? Wiring diagrams, integrating into 240 wiring. Do you have to keep the 240 ECU, or is it replaced by the LS1 PCM?
Please put up more swap pictures/Videos? Thanks for all the info so far!

syndicate

I agree with erinyes.... More info!! I've read this thread and another for days, hopeing for new info.

I know afew of the items are hand fabricated. Would you be interested in making another mount set? Did you use Hinsons' radiator? The wiring, if you were to do it all over again... Would you do yourself or source it through Hinson?

He seems rediculously expensive... A grand for the mount kit?! Gimme a break. About the only price I agree with is the Drive shaft!

I have an 89' 240sx sitting in my garage harness's disconnected and engine partialy out (SOHC) I was going RB25, but did a little searching before the purchase and stumbled upon you guys.

Thanks for any further information you can provide

soon2brb240

iTrader: (1)

I also am very interested in updates. I've fully intended on putting an rb25 into my 97 240 for quite some time. I'm 110% into doing the ls1 now. Any info is greatly appreciated. Hinson is just too expensive.

owen v8litew8

if you search the forums you will see that you can make your own mounts or have them fabbed up. the mounts will be smaller and easier to make if you get a Skyline crossmember, as that moves the mount points forward to where the LS1 mounts are located.

the clutch master cylinder is a typical issue, you need to bore out the hole in the firewall a little for it to fit (even in ther rx7 LS1 swaps) but thats pretty simple. some of us rx7 guys made an aluminum plate to attach the MC to the firewall and this also gives you a chance to have it upright instead of at the 45 degree angle that the USBrake MC bolt pattern would result in. Hinson sells a 7'8ths bore USBrake MC with a 1" length of metric thread welded on the end so you can retain the stock 240sx clutch pedal attachment pin/assembly.

there are tons of choices for radiators and fuel setups and wire harness modding can be done for less as well as the PCM being reprogrammed for cheap, search online and www.torquecentral.com for info.

for my rx7 I would do the wiring harness clean-up / mods myself, its worth it and you will learn a lot. most of it is removing unecessary stuff like a/c and emissions, then adding in a fuel pump relay and obd2 diagnostic connector.

the PCM can be done for cheap, even buying a truck PCM for $45 from any junkyard then having speartech or someone else reflash it to a Fbody program with VATS removal among other stuff (500rpm higher redline, rear O2's removed, etc) and youre all set.

the header work in this thread is awesome, the vette shorties with the custom 3" bend is really cool stuff, thats a good way to get around the 240sx steering shaft clearance issues!

soon2brb240

iTrader: (1)

Oh yes...i've been doing my homework on this swap. I know about the custom mounts being able to basically do yourself for very little investment. I was planning on using the stock ka crossmember, but since i've read this thread i plan on sourcing an r33 crossmember now.

I was thinking last night instead of using the sbc motor mount and fabbing up the little middle "adapter" that goes between sbc mount and the crossmember side mount, why not just skip the whole sbc mount and make one mount that goes from the ls1 to sbc adapter plate straight to the crossmember side mount? Of course i haven't actually had my hands on the stuff to see it. If i'm right it seems like it would make the whole entire mount process a little more simple, and just as easy.

I also plan on doing the wiring myself with the help of friends. One of my best frinds put a k20a2 into his 95 civic so needless to say, he'll be helping me out. He's actually almost as excited about the idea as I am.

Keep the updates coming pioneers

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

Well I picked up my 98 SE last week, pulled into the shop Sunday, and this afternoon the KA came out.

I originally was going to use my stock vette gullwing pan, but I found a used Canton road race pan for sale here on the forum. It's almost as shallow as the vette pan, but it is a couple inches shorter. So now I only have to recess the firewall 4 inches or so. The pan is still in the mail, so it will be a few days.

I posted my engine and trans for sale on zilvia.net, guy was supposed to show up today, but he flaked...
Then somebody else saw my for sale add and made me a great offer for the wiring harness. I'm pretty proud of the fact that I got the whole thing off with out breaking, cutting, or crushing any of the 160000 mi old plastic clips and wires. I know that you don't need the stock KA ECU to run anything post swap, but what about the wiring harness? Should I just sell it? The harness is seperate from the head light wiring, but not the windshield wipers and squirters.


Did you guys use the old stock wiring harness for anything???

soon2brb240

iTrader: (1)

Not speaking from experience because i haven't done it before, but i'm quite sure that you keep the stock harness. Since the ls1 is supposedly just about 5 wires, i'm assuming that you take the power from those 5 wires the ls1 needs from the stock harness so you can use your stock ignition switch etc. Again though, not speaking from experience.

syndicate

The Hinson site imples to me that you need your old harness. Hence wiring services offered. I know a couple of the cables involve shielding.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

Crap,

I just sold my KA harness for $100.
Hopefully Brian is talking about modifying the LSx harness.
I knew I should have called him first.
Oh well, at least my ride won't have any 162,000 mile old wires.

owen v8litew8

the mods Hinson/Speartech offers are mods to the LS1 harness... labeling wires, removing unecessary wires and adding an obd2 connector and fuel pump relay.

I think you can remove your KA harness, if there is a few stuff needed you can always wire them back in. us rx7 guys cut off wires for the rotary motor and end up cutting out 90% of the stock harness...

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

Here's the pictures I wish I had a year ago

thanx to 1320 in sacramento fot the lift



23.75” from bottom of C5 pan to top of intake manifold. The square is on the lowest part of the bottom of the crossmember and the square is 24" tall.





Well as you can see the engine is out, just waiting on a canton pan b4 I get started on the engine mounts. Wish me luck
enjoy

syndicate

Excellent!