Malfunction light worked then stopped...
Malfunction light worked then stopped... I hooked up a LED for my malfunction light... Ran the proper resistor for it aswell. It worked for a good month(just turning the key to the on position) then today it stopped working... I took the LED off to make sure that it still works and it does. The only changes I made today was weld a piece on the firewall, and added a ground strap from the engine to frame along with hooking up all of the other harness grounds.... I checked to make sure if I caught any wires with the heat(welder) or grinding(with the grinder... All off the wires for the malfunction light are in perfect working order....
What else can I add. I turned the key on and put a tester on the wire coming off of the ECU, the wire on the factory harness, not the length I had to add on and I get nothing.
Thoughts?
Edit: Also with the Drive By wire TB.... When the key is on the "On" position but the engine isn't running the TB should not move when the pedal is moved correct?
-Matt
What else can I add. I turned the key on and put a tester on the wire coming off of the ECU, the wire on the factory harness, not the length I had to add on and I get nothing.
Thoughts?
Edit: Also with the Drive By wire TB.... When the key is on the "On" position but the engine isn't running the TB should not move when the pedal is moved correct?
-Matt
Last edited by ls1_chevelle; Mar 12, 2006 at 08:50 PM.
Did you happen to unplug your computer before you started welding. I have seen in many cases where the computer is still plugged in and you start welding...it will actually jump the current through your grounds and fry a computer in a heartbeat. So I would start looking into that. Also anytime you are welding it is a good idea to unplug your battery. The welder send quite a shock through the system. So I would start there
Josh-
Josh-
I'll second the welding threat...when I had my subframe connectors welded in I disconnected both PCM connector hoods as well as the battery. No problems.
Another thing that comes to mind is the MIL lamp. I'm using a regular incandescent bulb, the factory uses a regular bulb also, and you're running an LED. Not sure of the specs, but if the LED puts less resistance on the circuit than a bulb it may damage the driver.
Another thing that comes to mind is the MIL lamp. I'm using a regular incandescent bulb, the factory uses a regular bulb also, and you're running an LED. Not sure of the specs, but if the LED puts less resistance on the circuit than a bulb it may damage the driver.
