First Generation S10 LS1ers...
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Launching!
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First Generation S10 LS1ers... i have a 1988 S-15 made by GMC (same thing as a S-10) i currently have an iron block 6.0L with the tranny out of a 2001 suburban...since the blocks are pretty much the same, and i was gonna do a LS1 swap any way...could anyone point me in the direction of what i will need (rear end wise) for it? i looked at the thread down the page a bit, but didn't seem to help much....anyone? thanks.
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Ask 10 people how to solve a problem and you'll likely get 10 different answers 
I'm doing a Ford 8.8" rear in my Sy. (Works out for me because 3.08 ratios are available for GM's 7.25" front and Ford's 8.8" rear.) Find one wider than what you need, cut off the ends and weld on 9" Ford ends (so you won't need c-clip eliminators), and get 31 spline (or larger) axles made to your desired length. Plenty of diff & spool options available. Weld on new spring perches and you're good to go! If you're planning on making real big power, also consider boxing in the framerails from the back of the cab rearward...it gets pretty flexy back there. (Front portion of framerails are already boxed...you'll see when you climb under there.)
Edit: Also weld the axle tubes to the housing for good measure. Housing is cast, so if you're a do-it-yourselfer (depending on your abilities), you might need to farm that out to someone.
I'm doing a Ford 8.8" rear in my Sy. (Works out for me because 3.08 ratios are available for GM's 7.25" front and Ford's 8.8" rear.) Find one wider than what you need, cut off the ends and weld on 9" Ford ends (so you won't need c-clip eliminators), and get 31 spline (or larger) axles made to your desired length. Plenty of diff & spool options available. Weld on new spring perches and you're good to go! If you're planning on making real big power, also consider boxing in the framerails from the back of the cab rearward...it gets pretty flexy back there. (Front portion of framerails are already boxed...you'll see when you climb under there.)
Edit: Also weld the axle tubes to the housing for good measure. Housing is cast, so if you're a do-it-yourselfer (depending on your abilities), you might need to farm that out to someone.
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Originally Posted by RAACCR
Ask 10 people how to solve a problem and you'll likely get 10 different answers
The Ford 8.8 is a possible solution, as is the 8.5" 10-bolt (which was offered in a very small selected few 2nd gen S10s). Other possibilities include a 9" Ford, 12-bolt GM, or Dana 60, all of which are available new / rebuilt from the aftermarket in pretty much any width you could desire (with just about any option you could think of.)
The question is: What are your goals and what are you doing to fix the truck's lack of traction? Because, until you have sufficient power AND traction, you're not likely to break the rear axle. If you're goals include running 10's on slicks, and you're going to do a lot of suspension modifications, obviously the rearend will need to be stouter than somebody who's never going to run a sticky tire and is planning on keeping the leafs with no other modifications.
'JustDreamin'
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Launching!
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i was also gonna go with the 8.8...right now i was planning on leaving the 6.0L stock...but after a while i was gonna go H/C with either a magnacharger or a whipple...lookin for about 550-600hp to the wheels...yeah a tall order, but if i'm gonna build something, might as well build it correctly.
i was thinking about boxing the frame rails and as far as rear suspension, take out the leaf springs and weld up my own 4-link with ladder bars...so i still have plenty of time to think about rear ends...even if i just throw something in there temporarily...
i was thinking about boxing the frame rails and as far as rear suspension, take out the leaf springs and weld up my own 4-link with ladder bars...so i still have plenty of time to think about rear ends...even if i just throw something in there temporarily...
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From: TAMPA by way of MIAMI!!!
The 8.8 is a popular solution and seems to be a good one I just can't hang Ford parts under my truck (sorry I'd lose sleep) but the chances of actually finding an 8.5" out of a S-10 or Blazer is slim to none. So you could go the hard way like I'm doing get one out of a '90-'98 Silverado it'll be 30 spline with the HD bearings and cut it down and buy axles and build it. My estimate is that total cost will be around $1000 to $1300. You could always buy a Moser or Strange set up for like 2X's the price but you'll get either a 12 bolt or a 9" or even better get the Dana.
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Launching!
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i wouldn't go with the 9" just because of the inefficiency of it...so if i bought a rear...it would be a moser, but i'm not lookin to spend 2k on a rear lol
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Teching In
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Ford Explorer rears are 3" wider from backing plate to backing plate than an S10 rear. The spring perches are only 1/2" off but people have been able to bolt them up with ease and no issues.
http://www.s-series.org/Sections-article65-p1.html
Good how-to with lots of info.
http://www.s-series.org/Sections-article65-p1.html
Good how-to with lots of info.
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Launching!
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From: North Hanover, New Jersey
Originally Posted by Hmbre97
Ford Explorer rears are 3" wider from backing plate to backing plate than an S10 rear. The spring perches are only 1/2" off but people have been able to bolt them up with ease and no issues.
http://www.s-series.org/Sections-article65-p1.html
Good how-to with lots of info.
http://www.s-series.org/Sections-article65-p1.html
Good how-to with lots of info.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 30
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Also, I plan on getting an explorer rear and keeping the Ford bolt pattern and getting the front rotors drilled for the Ford pattern. Mustang wheels are cheap and I have a thing for the Bullitt wheels since I have them on my 99 Cobra (not to mention you can get 18x9/18x10 combo polished on ebay for $500 
)
) 
To all those people who are doing the Ford Explorer 8.8 swap....why switch the front to a ford bolt pattern. In my opinion...if you get an 8.8...put a better Posi in it than the trac-lok ford has....they arent the greatest....and suck to rebuild. So if your gonna take the axle apart...get a rebuild kit for about 100 or so....and Call Todd at Dutchman Axles...have him make you some Explorer axles with a 5x4.75 lug pattern...they are HIGH strength axles for rock crawlers and only run about 240 shipped. Then you should rebuild the brakes anyways...so call Currie and get explorer brakes drilled for the 5x4.75 lug pattern....about 60 each....for good ones. I did this...retained tyhe Chevy bolt pattern....all together buying the 8.8 rebuilding it, putting in a Detroit TruTrac and the new axles and brakes...i only had 850 into it....thats only 100 more than i paid for my stock govlok 8.5. In my opinion....i dont like the ford axle on my chevy....but for the price and still being able to retain the chevy bolt pattern....for almost the same price as a stock 8.5....to me its a nobrainer. If anyone has any questions on this...I will be more than happy to explain further...just PM me
Josh-
Josh-
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Sulphur Springs, IN
I did the same thing with my 8.8 that I put in my Camaro. I had Moser drill them for a Chevy bolt pattern. I even had them make the about .5" or .75" longer too. They didn't charge me any extra to do it either. Just an idea.
Todd
Todd
