LSx in Fox body A/C help
LSx in Fox body A/C help I am doing the LSx in Fox body stang swap. I need help with interfacing the factory A/C switch (in dash), pressure switch and the A/C comp. (Chevy). What the goal is here is to use the factory dash controls and Ford dryer,condensor and evaporator with a Chevy compressor (custom lines of course).
You have two options -- GM style PCM controlled, Ford style cycling switch controlled.
Using the PCM, the A/C switch wires up to the LS1 PCM and the PCM cycles the compressor. You'll also need the LS1's A/C pressure sensor plumbed into the line right before the orifice tube (high pressure side).
The other option is the Ford route, where you'll leave everything alone and just move the Ford A/C compressor wires from the drivers side to wherever you mount your compressor.
I'm going one step farther (like everything else on my car) and swapping the A/C evaporator cores. My A/C system will be 100% from an LS1 car, minus a couple custom lines so they'll reach. A Mustang's engine bay is about a foot longer than an F-car
Using the PCM, the A/C switch wires up to the LS1 PCM and the PCM cycles the compressor. You'll also need the LS1's A/C pressure sensor plumbed into the line right before the orifice tube (high pressure side).
The other option is the Ford route, where you'll leave everything alone and just move the Ford A/C compressor wires from the drivers side to wherever you mount your compressor.
I'm going one step farther (like everything else on my car) and swapping the A/C evaporator cores. My A/C system will be 100% from an LS1 car, minus a couple custom lines so they'll reach. A Mustang's engine bay is about a foot longer than an F-car
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: TX
Originally Posted by Brains
The other option is the Ford route, where you'll leave everything alone and just move the Ford A/C compressor wires from the drivers side to wherever you mount your compressor.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: TX
Originally Posted by Brains
Just hook up the two wires that went to the old compressor, to the new compressor... Done 
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: TX
Originally Posted by Brains
Yes, it really is that simple You'll have a tougher time getting the lines hooked up and routed, that's for sure...
You'll have a tougher time getting the lines hooked up and routed, that's for sure...Trending Topics
All you need is the wire to actuate the coil in the compressor so you should be able to use the factory stang wire to actuate it and the use the ford low pressure switch and only have to make lines.
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Verdad Gallardo The power steering is beyond simple. You only need to change one fitting and call it done. I'm using the LS1 pressure line, and changing the fitting on the rack side. For the return, I'm using the factory Ford line and simply trimming it to length.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: TX
Originally Posted by Brains
The power steering is beyond simple. You only need to change one fitting and call it done. I'm using the LS1 pressure line, and changing the fitting on the rack side. For the return, I'm using the factory Ford line and simply trimming it to length.
That's usually easy to spot -- the pressure lines will be crimped, the return lines typically are just clamped. Not sure on the hydra-boost setup though.
My conversion just got a little weird-er... I'm putting 13" disc on all four corners, pushed by an LT1 Camaro booster and master
Now I need to decide which prop. valve to run, and I DO happen to have an LS1 anti-lock brake pump sitting here 
My conversion just got a little weird-er... I'm putting 13" disc on all four corners, pushed by an LT1 Camaro booster and master
Now I need to decide which prop. valve to run, and I DO happen to have an LS1 anti-lock brake pump sitting here On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: TX
Originally Posted by Brains
That's usually easy to spot -- the pressure lines will be crimped, the return lines typically are just clamped. Not sure on the hydra-boost setup though.
My conversion just got a little weird-er... I'm putting 13" disc on all four corners, pushed by an LT1 Camaro booster and master Now I need to decide which prop. valve to run, and I DO happen to have an LS1 anti-lock brake pump sitting here
My conversion just got a little weird-er... I'm putting 13" disc on all four corners, pushed by an LT1 Camaro booster and master
Now I need to decide which prop. valve to run, and I DO happen to have an LS1 anti-lock brake pump sitting here Hmm, sounds interesting...and slightly complicated. LOL You ought to go all out on the brakes and do the Vette calipers on all 4 corners!!
These rotors are larger than the 'Vette stuff, but we'll see if they stop as well. Stopping power is the main reason I'm swapping to a Camaro brake master and booster - the stock master and booster aren't up to snuff with the STOCK brakes, much less bigger twin-piston calipers (up front). The 13 inch rotors are actually not that much heavier, which has me pleased as well. It will limit my drag wheel choices for sure, so I will likely end up selling off the rear setup and going with a more standard 11.x inch rotor.
Here's a couple pics of what I have:
The rear calipers are on the way, and I still need to stop by a Ford dealer to pick up rear axle brackets.
Here's a couple pics of what I have:
The rear calipers are on the way, and I still need to stop by a Ford dealer to pick up rear axle brackets.
Originally Posted by Brains
That's usually easy to spot -- the pressure lines will be crimped, the return lines typically are just clamped. Not sure on the hydra-boost setup though.
My conversion just got a little weird-er... I'm putting 13" disc on all four corners, pushed by an LT1 Camaro booster and master Now I need to decide which prop. valve to run, and I DO happen to have an LS1 anti-lock brake pump sitting here
My conversion just got a little weird-er... I'm putting 13" disc on all four corners, pushed by an LT1 Camaro booster and master
Now I need to decide which prop. valve to run, and I DO happen to have an LS1 anti-lock brake pump sitting here 
Sorry to jack the thread, but I think it is related enough to be helpful. I'm in the same situation w/ regards to contolling the a/c system via the stock pcm and would like some clarification on a few things. (I'm using a 2002 pcm from a truck). The pinouts for the truck pcm a/c control are (see below and attached diagram):
C2 (Red connector)
pin 11 ac high pressure recirculation switch signal
pin 17 ac request signal
pin 43 ac compressor clutch relay control
pin 55 ac low pressure switch signal
1. Does the pcm require a ground at pin 55 on the red connector to cycle the compressor?
2. If so and if I'm not running the low pressure switch, can I just run it to ground?
3. What is the function of the "high pressure recirculation switch" signal that goes to pin 11 on the red connector?
4. Is this necessary to cycle the compressor?
help
C2 (Red connector)
pin 11 ac high pressure recirculation switch signal
pin 17 ac request signal
pin 43 ac compressor clutch relay control
pin 55 ac low pressure switch signal
1. Does the pcm require a ground at pin 55 on the red connector to cycle the compressor?
2. If so and if I'm not running the low pressure switch, can I just run it to ground?
3. What is the function of the "high pressure recirculation switch" signal that goes to pin 11 on the red connector?
4. Is this necessary to cycle the compressor?
help
I'm pretty sure that I just need a high pressure switch and low pressure switch, but I can't find anyone that knows what the purpose of the "high pressure recirculation switch" is. Any ideas?
Max
Max
I've been behind on that kinda stuff. Working on LS1Tech search