Wiring question pertaining to old voltage regulator.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 4
From: The trailer park
Wiring question pertaining to old voltage regulator. I've got my wiring harnesses for the camaro pinned-out as far as the old engine went, it was a piece of cake. I've got the lighting wires seperated, wrapped, hidden, and hooked up, but there's some heavy gauge red wires that go to the alternator, voltage regulator, and the horn relay.
1. Do I need the alternator wires? (a small blue, small white)? They are not the power wires, they go to the voltage regulator, and the side of the alternator.
2. Can I just tap into the alternator (+12v system), to power the vehicle electronics, instead of going through the voltage regulator? Or do i have to run it through it? It doesnt make much difference, but if its not needed, i'd rather not waste time trying to hide it.
like this...
(ALTERNATOR) ========== ( REGULATOR) ==== (BODY)
i'd like to know if i could just go
alternator ---- > body.
the other two wires also go from regulator to alternator, and they are light 18 or 20 gauge. white and blue.
its kinda hard to explain..
thanks in advance.
olly
1. Do I need the alternator wires? (a small blue, small white)? They are not the power wires, they go to the voltage regulator, and the side of the alternator.
2. Can I just tap into the alternator (+12v system), to power the vehicle electronics, instead of going through the voltage regulator? Or do i have to run it through it? It doesnt make much difference, but if its not needed, i'd rather not waste time trying to hide it.
like this...
(ALTERNATOR) ========== ( REGULATOR) ==== (BODY)
i'd like to know if i could just go
alternator ---- > body.
the other two wires also go from regulator to alternator, and they are light 18 or 20 gauge. white and blue.
its kinda hard to explain..
thanks in advance.
olly
get rid of all the old wires. all you need is an ignition activated wire plugged into alternator terminal (usually brown) and a direct power wire to the large post on the back of the alterator if you are using the ls alternator.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 4
From: The trailer park
LS1. was originally SBC.
where do I get the ignition activated wire?
I've got the power wire hooked up to alt, now, so the fuse panel is hot, so that's all good, how do I do the ignition wire? Will it be on my LS1 harness?
olly
where do I get the ignition activated wire?
I've got the power wire hooked up to alt, now, so the fuse panel is hot, so that's all good, how do I do the ignition wire? Will it be on my LS1 harness?
olly
In the harness I got from Speartech, there is a plug that goes into the top of the alternator. I assume (I know, *** u me) that takes care of controlling the alternator. I then have a heavy 10 guage wire running from the large post on the alternator to a central power distribution point to provide power for the rest of the car. This also assumes you are using the LS1 alternator, which has an internal voltage regulator so you don't need the old one on the fender.
If you want some very interesting reading on how to wire an older car for efficiency, go to http://www.madelectrical.com/ and read the technical articles there. I have my car wired using most of the ideas presented there including the trunk mounted battery, isolated starter circuit using a Ford solenoid, relays for lights, fans and A/C and power distribution points. I have noticed a significant improvement in electrical performance since I redesigned my wiring. Face it, older cars were not designed for all the accessories that we use today. Hope that helps.
Pat
If you want some very interesting reading on how to wire an older car for efficiency, go to http://www.madelectrical.com/ and read the technical articles there. I have my car wired using most of the ideas presented there including the trunk mounted battery, isolated starter circuit using a Ford solenoid, relays for lights, fans and A/C and power distribution points. I have noticed a significant improvement in electrical performance since I redesigned my wiring. Face it, older cars were not designed for all the accessories that we use today. Hope that helps.
Pat
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2004
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If it is a '98 you need a 470 ohm current limit resistor going to ignition "run". It originally went to the alternator warning light. Without the resistor the regulator may be damaged if the ignition is left in the run position very long without starting the engine. You can run it to an alternator light but if the bulb blows your alternator won't work
In later models (starting with '99 I THINK) the PCU provided the initial power to the regulator. Once the alternator is generatng current it supplies the current to operate the regulator.
In later models (starting with '99 I THINK) the PCU provided the initial power to the regulator. Once the alternator is generatng current it supplies the current to operate the regulator.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,043
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From: Texas and Qatar
I eliminated my old horn relay and voltage regulator a long time ago, when I had the ZZ4 SBC engine I used a one-wire alternator charging the battery directly. For the horn relay I'm using a standard 30a universal relay and its pretty easy to wire in. You can find them in the "Baja" lighting section of most autozones.
If you have the 98 Alternator, you probably could use the factory 67 "Battery" light to power it, I think it was a brown wire going to the external Voltage regulator your about to remove. I might be able to check mine later to verify the factory wire color. The 99+ PCM's control the alternator IIRC.
If you have the 98 Alternator, you probably could use the factory 67 "Battery" light to power it, I think it was a brown wire going to the external Voltage regulator your about to remove. I might be able to check mine later to verify the factory wire color. The 99+ PCM's control the alternator IIRC.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,959
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From: The trailer park
rfer - you're referring to the LS1 harness, i'm talking about the 'Camaro.
I'll check that out, Pat. I think i'm just going to take off the regulator, run a heavy (8gauge?) cable from battery in trunk to the fuse panel, and set up a fused distribution block to feed starter, fuel pump, alternator, relays, etc... I think that's what you're talking about. I'll check out that link right now..
thanks for replies.. still, whats the point of this voltage regulator thing...?
olly
I'll check that out, Pat. I think i'm just going to take off the regulator, run a heavy (8gauge?) cable from battery in trunk to the fuse panel, and set up a fused distribution block to feed starter, fuel pump, alternator, relays, etc... I think that's what you're talking about. I'll check out that link right now..
thanks for replies.. still, whats the point of this voltage regulator thing...?
olly
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,959
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From: The trailer park
oh, its a 99 harness/pcm etc.. and the relay thing sounds like a good idea. the little black box on the back of my ls1 alt is a voltage regulator, isnt' it? I was looking through autozone and the plug for it said it plugged into the built in regulator. Cool.
joseph- you're right about brown. I've got a wiring diagram that's saving my life. it's so easy when you've got it, it says like 18g/dbl and you know its a think dark blue wire for example.
joseph- you're right about brown. I've got a wiring diagram that's saving my life. it's so easy when you've got it, it says like 18g/dbl and you know its a think dark blue wire for example.
How are you guys hooking up the battery light up with the fox mustangs. With the way you guys have suggested, does that meen the light will be on all the time.
Not to hijack but this is the only thread on this subject so I thought Id keep the info in here.
Not to hijack but this is the only thread on this subject so I thought Id keep the info in here.
Originally Posted by LX1
How are you guys hooking up the battery light up with the fox mustangs. With the way you guys have suggested, does that meen the light will be on all the time.
Not to hijack but this is the only thread on this subject so I thought Id keep the info in here.
Not to hijack but this is the only thread on this subject so I thought Id keep the info in here.
One end of this light is hooked to an IGN 14V source and the other end goes to the alternator L terminal.
When you turn the key, current flows from the IGN switch to the L terminal and the bulb glows.This current is also meant to turn on the alt voltage regulator
Once the engine starts, the alt will send 14v out of the L terminal towards the bulb and the IGN switch will do the same. With 14 volts at both the terminals of the batt bulb, it stops glowing. If for some reason your alt fails, or is not charging fully, the light will glow.
The one thing I am yet to figure out, is the size of resistor that should be connected btw the bulb and alt. Feeding 14v to the L terminal will damage the alt
also, how do you go about getting the alt to work when and if the bulb filament burns out?
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
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From: Downers Grove, IL
Originally Posted by Schitzo
The one thing I am yet to figure out, is the size of resistor that should be connected btw the bulb and alt. Feeding 14v to the L terminal will damage the alt
also, how do you go about getting the alt to work when and if the bulb filament burns out?
If you don`t like the idea of the bulb in there you can just put in a 500ohm resistor instead.
GM uses a bulb with no resistor when they set up the alternator so I figure if its good enough for them its good enough for me.
