Standalone Harness?
Standalone Harness? What is everyone using for their hybrid LS1 harness? I see some people send it off to Speartech, but is this something that can be done myself? I would like to save the cash and do it myself if possible. What needs to be done to the harness to make it a standalone? Are ther any diagrams or instructions available?
Thanks
Thanks
If you have basic electrical skills and can follow a wiring diagram, you could do it yourself. It's best to have a wiring diagram from the engine donor vehicle as there are some model and year differences. Pin-outs for the PCM are available on the web or you could use Helms manuals or GM tech line CDs for your wiring diagrams. Some find it easier to purchase a completely new harness or send in an old one to modify as doing it yourself (especially the first one) can take some time. Lots of knowledgeable people here to help if you have specific questions as you move along through the process.
You need a small fuse panel, a few relays, and some good schematics. I am using a Painless 7 circuit block to supply power to the harness which needs constant hot, ignition hot and ground. You will need relays for the fuel pump and fans. I strongly reccommend buying a GM service manual for the donor car. It will have detailed schematics for the harness.
Where is a good place to get the GM manual. My donor motor is from a 2002 and this will be going into my 71 Chevelle. I have no problem with wiring, but have never done something this involved. I already have one 75A bosch fan relay running my Mark VIII electric fan.
Are there any directions for this on the net? What are the main changes that need to be made to the harness?
Thanks for the help,
Mike
Are there any directions for this on the net? What are the main changes that need to be made to the harness?
Thanks for the help,
Mike
I bought service manuals on CD on ebay. It cost $25 for the CDs, $6 for the shipping. I haven't found an "overall" schematic on there but I have been able to find schematics for each circuit (e.g., starting, engine controls, a/c). I just checked and this guy doesn't have an auction going right now for these but go ahead and contact him to see if he has another CD set for sale.
GM eSi Techline Service Diagnostic & Repair Manuals
For ALL GM Automobiles & Trucks 1998-2005 - 8 x CD's
Item number: 8042055487
GM eSi Techline Service Diagnostic & Repair Manuals
For ALL GM Automobiles & Trucks 1998-2005 - 8 x CD's
Item number: 8042055487
So what needs to be changed on the harness? Fan control wires need to run a relay, same w/ fuel pump. What else? What runs through the fuse panel you mentioned 70LS1?
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 600
Likes: 0
From: Coppell,TX
let me get you a link to a website that i found, it has alot of wiring diagrams
ahh here it is http://www.ls7power.com/diagrams/
thats got alot of good wiring diagrams
ahh here it is http://www.ls7power.com/diagrams/
thats got alot of good wiring diagrams
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
i just rewired my harness.... its very easy just ALOT of tedius wire tracing...
you can also just tap into your factory fuse block, thats what i did on my 944. even the remote start works that was previously installed! LOL
Mitchell On Demand has a nice color coded wiring schemation for the 98,99-00,01-04 thats what i used and it makes everything so easy. also, if you still have the all the connectors on the harness that came on the car you can use the factory underhood fuse block that came from the factory with a little modification.
heres a hint. the power inputs for the ecm are on the 3 plugs closest to the PCM on the f-bodies. one plug is gray and the other two are black.
orange, pink and black are some of the ones you are looking for.
you can also just tap into your factory fuse block, thats what i did on my 944. even the remote start works that was previously installed! LOL
Mitchell On Demand has a nice color coded wiring schemation for the 98,99-00,01-04 thats what i used and it makes everything so easy. also, if you still have the all the connectors on the harness that came on the car you can use the factory underhood fuse block that came from the factory with a little modification.
heres a hint. the power inputs for the ecm are on the 3 plugs closest to the PCM on the f-bodies. one plug is gray and the other two are black.
orange, pink and black are some of the ones you are looking for.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
There is a wiring write up for a 98 posted in the FAQ`s, but I did not have access to info for the newer cars so I have not done one for them. What year are the diagrams on LS7power for? I did the write up for the 98 using alldata diagrams. For the fuses you can do it a couple ways, either use your stock fuse box if you have enough room (usually not possible on a pre EFI conversion vehicle), use an aftermarket box, or use a box from another vehicle. I used a box from another vehicle because it was cheap, compact, and had a relay center already built in, some pics are posted in another thread.
Heres the link https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/505880-relays-efi-conversions.html
Heres the link https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/505880-relays-efi-conversions.html
How did you like the all sata service is it worth the money? I took the harness off the motor the other night so I will begin modify it soon. Any more tips? '02 LS1.
the wonderful thing about the 99-02 Fbody harnesses is that they're already 99% stand alone..
plug power to the right wires, and it runs...
this is from the FAQ found here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/312119-ls1-swap-faqs.html
the method i use is simple, off of thoes 5 plugs, i cut and label each wire im keeping.
i then take the harness apart (just alot of unwrapping) and pull out the wires im not going to use ( AIR, EGR, rear 02, ect)...
i add in the new wires i need (example: coolent temp for the gauge)
then i intergrate it with the current car harness... or to a stand alone fuse panel and some relays.
finally i wrap it back up, and its done.
plug power to the right wires, and it runs...
this is from the FAQ found here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/312119-ls1-swap-faqs.html
let me take a min to explain what that means (i know i wish someone did that for me first.. lol)
when you get a pullout that has the harness on the car, everything is connected except:
3 connectors that were underhood. (named C100,C101,C105)
2 connectors that used to connect under the dash (220,230)
so these 5 connectors are teh ONLY wires we're worred about.
in a nutshell... give ignition power to the pink wires, constant power to the orange ones, take off VATS, and it runs.
the other wires you hook up are just gauge wires, reverse lights, ect.... nothing hard.
its ALMOST a stand alone harness already... only diff is it will have a couple extra wires left after its hooked up.. not a big deal..
theres one more wire not listed there.. its a thick purple wire that goes to the starter.
when it gets +12v, the starter turns the motor over.
also, i bought HPtuners... you will either need HPtuners/EFILive/etc., or have your PCM flashed by someone to remove the trouble codes and VATS.... i could give you a step by step on doing it easily.... but HPtuners/EFILive is a little pricy. a tune is a cheaper route, but HPtuners/EFILive give you the scanner thats very useful.. along with the ability to change stuff at will... your call on that.
when you get a pullout that has the harness on the car, everything is connected except:
3 connectors that were underhood. (named C100,C101,C105)
2 connectors that used to connect under the dash (220,230)
so these 5 connectors are teh ONLY wires we're worred about.
in a nutshell... give ignition power to the pink wires, constant power to the orange ones, take off VATS, and it runs.
the other wires you hook up are just gauge wires, reverse lights, ect.... nothing hard.
its ALMOST a stand alone harness already... only diff is it will have a couple extra wires left after its hooked up.. not a big deal..
theres one more wire not listed there.. its a thick purple wire that goes to the starter.
when it gets +12v, the starter turns the motor over.
also, i bought HPtuners... you will either need HPtuners/EFILive/etc., or have your PCM flashed by someone to remove the trouble codes and VATS.... i could give you a step by step on doing it easily.... but HPtuners/EFILive is a little pricy. a tune is a cheaper route, but HPtuners/EFILive give you the scanner thats very useful.. along with the ability to change stuff at will... your call on that.
the method i use is simple, off of thoes 5 plugs, i cut and label each wire im keeping.
i then take the harness apart (just alot of unwrapping) and pull out the wires im not going to use ( AIR, EGR, rear 02, ect)...
i add in the new wires i need (example: coolent temp for the gauge)
then i intergrate it with the current car harness... or to a stand alone fuse panel and some relays.
finally i wrap it back up, and its done.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
Originally Posted by stealth71
How did you like the all sata service is it worth the money? I took the harness off the motor the other night so I will begin modify it soon. Any more tips? '02 LS1.
As far as other tips check my post in the FAQ`s, I have posted a writeup based on the diagrams at LS7 power.com, I think it should work for the 99-02 f-body motors, I just don`t know for a fact what year the diagrams were for. But looking at the 99-02`s it appears that they are all wired the same.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Have your GM dealer print a copy of the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector End Views document for your engine & model, i.e. 2001 Chevrolet Camaro 5.7 L. or email me rheacox@earthlink.net and I'll see if I can get it for you.
