ls1stangs?
Split my block in 2 and the crank, bent some rods with bolt-on stock power in 2003{ 1990 gt 5.0 t5 3.73 , fms cobra clutch, steeda shifter , adj clutch quadrant,e303cam 220@.050 .498'' ,1.7cranes rr,fms double roller timing chain, underdrive pullies,smog delete ,shorty headers , off road h -pipe , 2 chamber flowmasters i run the car for all it was worth but never overreved {5500rpm stock heads, intake ,tb} or missed a shift what gives!! ill tell you what its a ford just like the brand new 05 . 06 3vs are blowing with over 425 rwhp , pieces of **** 
. i might have been pushing 230rwhp in my 5.0 and she still blew - oil all over the freeway {changed the oil every month } at first i thought well i need a new timing chain but when i get home and pull the cranksnout and balancer out BY HAND 
crank broke in the middle also . well dont get me started on the snycronizers breaking thats a whole book right their. LS1 in 5.0 mustang SWAP THAT BITCH
cws T/A
. i might have been pushing 230rwhp in my 5.0 and she still blew - oil all over the freeway {changed the oil every month } at first i thought well i need a new timing chain but when i get home and pull the cranksnout and balancer out BY HAND crank broke in the middle also . well dont get me started on the snycronizers breaking thats a whole book right their. LS1 in 5.0 mustang SWAP THAT BITCH
cws T/A
the strange thing is it almost seems that the mustang was designed to accept ls1 parts; the engine fits better than the 5.0, the ford moutor mounts fit with minor modification, the f-body radiator fits like a glove, the th-400 sits in there perfectly , the ford cross member is reused with slight modification. and the cool thing is you end up with a lighter faster car!
LX1 - So did you try using the factory f-bod master cylinder before going with the Tilton? A buddy of mine is convinced that he can make it work with the stock pedals, whereas I'm not so sure.
I did modify the stock one to fit. However I wanted a master with more mounting holes. So i went with the tilton because it has lots of different holes for mounting the thing.
I did have to shorten the pushrod about 3 or 4 inches though.
I did have to shorten the pushrod about 3 or 4 inches though.
LX1 you should write a how -to t56 {LS1} in a mustang guide with pictures
your the first to have done it it seems , most are wanting a manual but are stuck going with the auto cause they see no way else to do it . church
your the first to have done it it seems , most are wanting a manual but are stuck going with the auto cause they see no way else to do it . church
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Launching!
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville, AL
5.0 HO block splitting is incredibly common over 550 rwhp. They actually start to crack between the main and cam bearings usually, and then just go on up thru the lifter valley. It isn't uncommon to split one so bad that the intake and main caps are all that's holding it together.
They will also split well under 500rwhp if subejected to high rpm. 7,000+ will kill one in a hurry.
They will also split well under 500rwhp if subejected to high rpm. 7,000+ will kill one in a hurry.
i'm looking at doing an lsx in my notch asap. just gotta get the goods together first. i'm looking at either a stroker or a 346/turbo or blower combo depending on funds and patients! lol. a 4.6/Fox body swap k-member with mount adjustment/fab is needed to answer your question. also, 351W/Fox swap headers are needed from what i've read. cut the Ford flanges and weld on lsx flanges and that's about it for the hard stuff. Brains has a nice site and there's another one, but i can't remember the name. good luck and please keep us informed.
-Dave
-Dave
Originally Posted by LX1
I used turbocoupe pedals. And a Tilton master cylinder. Any of the universal ones will work. I used the 74series if I remember right. I had to shorten the shaft past the threads though to make it fit. And then JBwelded the spherical rod end to it.
Got a used clutch master off of ebay. And took the line off of it. Cut the part where you do the drill mod. So all you have is a -4 line with the quick disconnect. Then added a -4 90* hose end. And used a -4 to -3 reducer into the master.
For mounting the master you need to get creative. There is no room in there. And this will require you to take the dash off. No way to do it otherwise. And prebleed the system before putting the dash on. Makes for a really bad pita to get the air out of the system.
And thats all.
Dan.
Got a used clutch master off of ebay. And took the line off of it. Cut the part where you do the drill mod. So all you have is a -4 line with the quick disconnect. Then added a -4 90* hose end. And used a -4 to -3 reducer into the master.
For mounting the master you need to get creative. There is no room in there. And this will require you to take the dash off. No way to do it otherwise. And prebleed the system before putting the dash on. Makes for a really bad pita to get the air out of the system.
And thats all.
Dan.
Just an update for those interested.
Installed the Turbocoupe pedals (direct bolt-in btw for me, I assume it would be so for all fox-bodies), and instantly came to the conclusion that the factory turbocoupe master won't work simply because it protrudes into the engine bay right in the way of the last driver side exhaust port. I doubt that even manifolds would squeeze in there, and even then it would melt the master. The good news is that the pedal throw is almost the exact same distance as the f-body.
Next up I looked at the f-body master. After I posted above I spent more time with it, and came to the conclusion that it might work. The pushrod will need to be shortened, and the spherical rod end re-attached (I guess it can be welded, the way I drive I dunno if any cold-weld compound will stand up to my abuse). The next problem is that the firewall-mounting plate (from the turbocoupe) has a square hole that the factory master "twists" into. on the f-bod master, the mounting ears are large enough to prevent the master from passing through to the engine bay, but something tells me that simply shortening the rod and wedging the master inbetween the firewall and pedal-mount isn't safe
I'm sure that some sort of bracket could be made to make it fit, but it's a bit out of my scope of experience/tool selection, though with some direction I'm sure I can get it done. But the key here is that it looks like the master will have to be mounted so that 3/4 of the cylinder is inside the car, with the other 1/4 in the engine bay. Also looks like the reservoir hose will need to run from the outside to the inside, through the original clutch cable hole., Anyway I'll snap some pics this evening because I'd like to see what y'all think. The tilton master is my last solution only because it's more money, and honestly doesn't look any easier to mount.
LX1, you say to get creative on mounting the master...did you fabricate a bracket to secure it to the pedal bracket? or the firewall?
Installed the Turbocoupe pedals (direct bolt-in btw for me, I assume it would be so for all fox-bodies), and instantly came to the conclusion that the factory turbocoupe master won't work simply because it protrudes into the engine bay right in the way of the last driver side exhaust port. I doubt that even manifolds would squeeze in there, and even then it would melt the master. The good news is that the pedal throw is almost the exact same distance as the f-body.
Next up I looked at the f-body master. After I posted above I spent more time with it, and came to the conclusion that it might work. The pushrod will need to be shortened, and the spherical rod end re-attached (I guess it can be welded, the way I drive I dunno if any cold-weld compound will stand up to my abuse). The next problem is that the firewall-mounting plate (from the turbocoupe) has a square hole that the factory master "twists" into. on the f-bod master, the mounting ears are large enough to prevent the master from passing through to the engine bay, but something tells me that simply shortening the rod and wedging the master inbetween the firewall and pedal-mount isn't safe
I'm sure that some sort of bracket could be made to make it fit, but it's a bit out of my scope of experience/tool selection, though with some direction I'm sure I can get it done. But the key here is that it looks like the master will have to be mounted so that 3/4 of the cylinder is inside the car, with the other 1/4 in the engine bay. Also looks like the reservoir hose will need to run from the outside to the inside, through the original clutch cable hole., Anyway I'll snap some pics this evening because I'd like to see what y'all think. The tilton master is my last solution only because it's more money, and honestly doesn't look any easier to mount. LX1, you say to get creative on mounting the master...did you fabricate a bracket to secure it to the pedal bracket? or the firewall?
Oh and for the k-member questions, I used the AJE SBC swap k-member and mounts. The oil pan sump is touching the main k-member crossmember just ever so slightly...has anyone else encountered this? Just wondering.
Originally Posted by Mr. Hyde
Just an update for those interested.
Installed the Turbocoupe pedals (direct bolt-in btw for me, I assume it would be so for all fox-bodies), and instantly came to the conclusion that the factory turbocoupe master won't work simply because it protrudes into the engine bay right in the way of the last driver side exhaust port. I doubt that even manifolds would squeeze in there, and even then it would melt the master. The good news is that the pedal throw is almost the exact same distance as the f-body.
Next up I looked at the f-body master. After I posted above I spent more time with it, and came to the conclusion that it might work. The pushrod will need to be shortened, and the spherical rod end re-attached (I guess it can be welded, the way I drive I dunno if any cold-weld compound will stand up to my abuse). The next problem is that the firewall-mounting plate (from the turbocoupe) has a square hole that the factory master "twists" into. on the f-bod master, the mounting ears are large enough to prevent the master from passing through to the engine bay, but something tells me that simply shortening the rod and wedging the master inbetween the firewall and pedal-mount isn't safe I'm sure that some sort of bracket could be made to make it fit, but it's a bit out of my scope of experience/tool selection, though with some direction I'm sure I can get it done. But the key here is that it looks like the master will have to be mounted so that 3/4 of the cylinder is inside the car, with the other 1/4 in the engine bay. Also looks like the reservoir hose will need to run from the outside to the inside, through the original clutch cable hole., Anyway I'll snap some pics this evening because I'd like to see what y'all think. The tilton master is my last solution only because it's more money, and honestly doesn't look any easier to mount.
LX1, you say to get creative on mounting the master...did you fabricate a bracket to secure it to the pedal bracket? or the firewall?
Installed the Turbocoupe pedals (direct bolt-in btw for me, I assume it would be so for all fox-bodies), and instantly came to the conclusion that the factory turbocoupe master won't work simply because it protrudes into the engine bay right in the way of the last driver side exhaust port. I doubt that even manifolds would squeeze in there, and even then it would melt the master. The good news is that the pedal throw is almost the exact same distance as the f-body.
Next up I looked at the f-body master. After I posted above I spent more time with it, and came to the conclusion that it might work. The pushrod will need to be shortened, and the spherical rod end re-attached (I guess it can be welded, the way I drive I dunno if any cold-weld compound will stand up to my abuse). The next problem is that the firewall-mounting plate (from the turbocoupe) has a square hole that the factory master "twists" into. on the f-bod master, the mounting ears are large enough to prevent the master from passing through to the engine bay, but something tells me that simply shortening the rod and wedging the master inbetween the firewall and pedal-mount isn't safe
I'm sure that some sort of bracket could be made to make it fit, but it's a bit out of my scope of experience/tool selection, though with some direction I'm sure I can get it done. But the key here is that it looks like the master will have to be mounted so that 3/4 of the cylinder is inside the car, with the other 1/4 in the engine bay. Also looks like the reservoir hose will need to run from the outside to the inside, through the original clutch cable hole., Anyway I'll snap some pics this evening because I'd like to see what y'all think. The tilton master is my last solution only because it's more money, and honestly doesn't look any easier to mount. LX1, you say to get creative on mounting the master...did you fabricate a bracket to secure it to the pedal bracket? or the firewall?
Originally Posted by ls1269u
just curious what times people have been seeing out of this swap i have a ls1 that put 385 to the ground with a shitty tune I'm going to be running the msd carb setup with a vic jr intake in a fox body coupe with a 350 turbo behind it