acdcgcsc

true but you do not have the pains and headache

dogger

iTrader: (1)

personally 500 bucks is worth a headach so I'd rather try and figure it out myself as well rather then pay somebody.beside's I'm tring to build the cheapest reliable ls1 swap I can and I'm on a pretty good roll already.

POWER ON

Doing it give yourself gives BIG SATISFACTION and BRIDE when others inquire about the job. You my pay others but do you know how it work's? It feels good when everything comes together. That's what I'm taking about.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Most of the aftermarket harnesses are not a direct plug in, you still have to find battery power, ign power, hook your gauges up, TCC switch, etc. If I am going to be soldering wires together I might as well just use the factory harness and save some $$$, plus like POWER ON said, the pride that I can say I did it myself. It was not that difficult, all together I spent less than a day rewiring it and most of that was figuring out how I wanted to route the wires. I knew what needed to be connected where in about two hours and I didn`t even have reliable diagrams, mine were copies of a chiltons book from the library and they didn`t have any #`s on the PCM connectors .

I am not saying that you shouldn`t buy a premade harness since some people cannot rework their own harness but buying a harness is usually not a direct plug in. (I know speartech makes some harnesses that are a direct plug in for some conversions). From what I hear painless harnesses are the worst.

jeepinpete

OK, an update. Transmission power is supplied from socket F2 on connector C2 of the under hood fuse block. In a round about way that power comes from the in cab fuse block. Remove that socket from connector C2 and move it to pocket B9 on connector C2. B9 is fused by fuse #24 (ETC Fuse, not normally used). That fuse, and INJA, INJB and ECM1, run off of the same relay (IGN1 Relay), and therefore is switched 12V. Can't confirm that it fixed my problem, too late in the evening to start the Jeep with no exhaust...

acdcgcsc

have you look at a company call superior harness company thats where I get my LS1 harness I hook up 2 wires that was it. The rest plug in and the plug were label. It had all the thing I need in it. I understand what you say about doing yourself but something are worth buy. AND IT LOOK MUCH BETTER!!! if I don't do it

jeepinpete

I can confirm that this did the trick. The trans shifted into 1st this morning just like it should. I am going to take it out for a very brief road test tonight to make sure it is shifting like it should...

BLWN1

iTrader: (6)

good info, are the 6.0s harness the same as the 5.3s?

Bo185

Yes basically but some are set-up for the 4l80E

jonus079

i have a simplified harness for the 5.3l and it looks like it took alot of work. its not just taking out and cutting wires, you have to add a fuse block and fuel pump relay.

actually i was planning on copying it and selling harnesses on ebay but after i saw how complicated it was i gave up.

patgizz

iTrader: (6)

so i dont get yelled at for starting a new thread about this...

does anyone have a part # or source for that underhood fuse block and the connectors that come from the dash harness? my engine came with the full uncut engine harness and that's it.

jeepinpete

Best bet is Ebay. I picked one up for $30 with the relays and such. Actually, I may have an extra for a '99 if you are interested...

two53s

Engine: 5.3 Vortec (2000)

I've just gotten my computer back. I had them remove the VATS, change the ratios for the transmission, emissions etc. I am using the under hood fuse box to make things easy. I wired up an ignition switch using jeepinpetes instructions found in this thread. OK... it did turn over and almost started first thing. It ran for about 2 seconds then stalled. After trying several times to restart it, I checked the fuel pressure... VERY GOOD... I can hear the fuel pump running when I put the key in the on position and the relays clicking. I even get gas running back through the return line. I checked to see if the injectors were getting power on ign and in on position... they are... I am getting spark to the spark plugs... I figure it should run or at least hit every now and then... but it doesn't. Against my better judgement, my brother in law squirted some gas down the intake and ... yes it did fire up and run for... about as long as it took for the gas to burn up. (about 15 seconds...) Am I missing something here? Shouldn't this engine fire up on its own and run? Please help with diagnosing this problem. I am very much an amature and this is my first fuel injected project.

Oh one more thing... when we pulled the engine, it was still running.

lsxyj

iTrader: (1)

how long has the motor been not running u may need to have the injectors cleaned

98blackSS

I pm'd you.. Make sure that the injector wiring has good ground. Sounds like they aren't firing. Check grounds behind drivers side head.

jeepinpete

I will second the question, how long did your motor sit? My injectors were plugged after sitting for a couple years. It took a couple overnight soaks in seafoam to get them working again. I was fortunate that two let a little fuel thru, that way I knew I had it hooked up right...

two53s

I'll double check the grounds. I've also located a set of noid lights to check the injectors. I checked them with my circuit tester but one of my friends said that I should also use a noid light to see what the circuit is doing in the on and ign position.

The engine has been sitting for a few years so if none of these attempts solves the problem, I'll pull the injectors and soak them.

Thanks for all of the advice. I'll keep all of you posted on my progress.

12thstreetjunkman

iTrader: (16)

sounds to me like they missed deleting vats.

orrious

Need to find out if they edited your PCm or re-flashed it. If they re-flashed it, you need to relearn your crank position. Anyone with a newer scan tool can do this for you. Only takes a couple minutes.

busta9876

iTrader: (3)

Only time a crank relearn has to be done is if it is a brand new PCM, or if you are using a PCM from another engine platform. When I used a 12200411 PCM from a 2001 4.3L S10 on my 2001 5.3L Vortec engine, it imediatly threw a check engine light for crank / cam learn. It ran okay, but light was on. This info is straight out of the GM Service Information.