turbo LS1 fox ideas
06-22-2006, 04:22 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by stang90gt50
I am on my 9th LS1 conversion with this car, 2nd mustang conversion. In general I wheel & deal on all my parts through watching for good deals on used parts and doing all the work myself. I can easily understand how you can spend 15k-20k doing the same setup, but I personally make sure i save on every single part that goes on the car.
Car itself: -$500 bought $5k clean mustang with built 306", tremec tko with your typical heads,cam, all the boltons setup in it. Parted out motor/tranny and all other bolt ons. I highly recommend buying a mustang with alot of money in it for cheap and then parting it out, you end up with a nicer car and no money out of pocket.
Motor/trans ($500)- Buy a complete 6.0L core motor that burned oil with wiring harness/computer, sell off harness, pcm, intake, rods/pistons etc after which I have $500 in it (paid $850 from LKQ wrecking yard)
TH400 Trans - ($400) $50 core plus about $350 in parts building it, has lived behind many other similar power setups ive done. Also add in $350 for a used continental converter and another $100 for shifter, dipstick,misc.
$250 - 3.5" race driveline from local driveline shop
$350 - Stock 8.8 (in car) plus 31 spline strange axles, spool,c-clip elim & bearings, long studsused from corral.net message board.
($500) Stock front/rear mustang brakes, qa1 4.6k tubular k-member, a-arms and coilovers
$650 Used h-beam rods & new diamond pistons and rings from ebay
$500 Machine work, balance etc...
$150 ARP Head studs, $150 factory ls1 fbody 99 harness & pcm rewired myself to work, already own hptuners...
$1750 turbo setup - 4" OBX, 38mm tial wastegate, 50mm tial bov, own 6.0l manifolds already, GT42 T4 flange turbo, piping, flanges, misc
Factory pony wheels /w 16" M&H DOT Slicks
Factory interior other than shifter - used factory ford gauge senders to run gauge cluster, also car came with aeromotive fuel system - A1000 pump, 1/2" line, 3/8 return, aeromotive adj regulator and aeromotive fuel rails (mustang fuel rails worked perfect on the ls1 intake with little $5 spacers to bolt it down
and i have some other odds and ends im not remembering off the top of my head..but my spreadsheet shows just under $8k invested...
Car itself: -$500 bought $5k clean mustang with built 306", tremec tko with your typical heads,cam, all the boltons setup in it. Parted out motor/tranny and all other bolt ons. I highly recommend buying a mustang with alot of money in it for cheap and then parting it out, you end up with a nicer car and no money out of pocket.
Motor/trans ($500)- Buy a complete 6.0L core motor that burned oil with wiring harness/computer, sell off harness, pcm, intake, rods/pistons etc after which I have $500 in it (paid $850 from LKQ wrecking yard)
TH400 Trans - ($400) $50 core plus about $350 in parts building it, has lived behind many other similar power setups ive done. Also add in $350 for a used continental converter and another $100 for shifter, dipstick,misc.
$250 - 3.5" race driveline from local driveline shop
$350 - Stock 8.8 (in car) plus 31 spline strange axles, spool,c-clip elim & bearings, long studsused from corral.net message board.
($500) Stock front/rear mustang brakes, qa1 4.6k tubular k-member, a-arms and coilovers
$650 Used h-beam rods & new diamond pistons and rings from ebay
$500 Machine work, balance etc...
$150 ARP Head studs, $150 factory ls1 fbody 99 harness & pcm rewired myself to work, already own hptuners...
$1750 turbo setup - 4" OBX, 38mm tial wastegate, 50mm tial bov, own 6.0l manifolds already, GT42 T4 flange turbo, piping, flanges, misc
Factory pony wheels /w 16" M&H DOT Slicks
Factory interior other than shifter - used factory ford gauge senders to run gauge cluster, also car came with aeromotive fuel system - A1000 pump, 1/2" line, 3/8 return, aeromotive adj regulator and aeromotive fuel rails (mustang fuel rails worked perfect on the ls1 intake with little $5 spacers to bolt it down
and i have some other odds and ends im not remembering off the top of my head..but my spreadsheet shows just under $8k invested...
06-22-2006, 08:59 AM
#24
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That's EXACTLY what I'm trying to say. Sure I could build an LS1 converted Rolls Royce Silver Cloud for $15 -- just have to find one for cheap/free, with a "forgotten" suitcase full of cash in the trunk 
Seriously though, on average its simply not going to happen if you target building a turbocharged LS1 Mustang for under 10k.. stang90gt50 - you're pretty close to 10k already, without adding up all the odds and ends, and without the car on the road. That's where a LOT of "invisible" money is spent, all the things you don't normally account for. It adds up quickly. $50 to summit here, $100 to jegs there, the countless trips to autozone, etc.
I'll say one thing though, stang90gt50 is absolutely correct in recommending a nicer car to start with. It might seem silly to spend more up front, but if you truly want a nice car in the end, you'll spend less by buying a nicer car from the beginning. I bought a reasonably clean LX AOD coupe for $2700, running with a bad tranny. I put $350 into a tranny rebuild and used it as a daily driver for a few months before starting on the conversion. Now that I'm almost ready to wrap everything up, my perfectionist self has spent a LOT more money in "restoration" than I would have spent were I to have found a cleaner car to begin with. The whole interior is either new, or custom -- and I started out wanting to simply change from blue to some other color! The paint on the car isn't bad, but its not perfect. So, the car is being stripped down to bare metal, with brand new bumper covers (can't stand the little warps in them), and painted. Pretty much all of that isn't necessary of course, but I probably wouldn't have done it were I to have bought a really nice car to begin with. I'm happy though, because in the end its exactly what I want, built the way I want it built. Definitely better than what Ford rolled off the line visually, structurally, and mechanically
Seriously though, on average its simply not going to happen if you target building a turbocharged LS1 Mustang for under 10k.. stang90gt50 - you're pretty close to 10k already, without adding up all the odds and ends, and without the car on the road. That's where a LOT of "invisible" money is spent, all the things you don't normally account for. It adds up quickly. $50 to summit here, $100 to jegs there, the countless trips to autozone, etc.
I'll say one thing though, stang90gt50 is absolutely correct in recommending a nicer car to start with. It might seem silly to spend more up front, but if you truly want a nice car in the end, you'll spend less by buying a nicer car from the beginning. I bought a reasonably clean LX AOD coupe for $2700, running with a bad tranny. I put $350 into a tranny rebuild and used it as a daily driver for a few months before starting on the conversion. Now that I'm almost ready to wrap everything up, my perfectionist self has spent a LOT more money in "restoration" than I would have spent were I to have found a cleaner car to begin with. The whole interior is either new, or custom -- and I started out wanting to simply change from blue to some other color! The paint on the car isn't bad, but its not perfect. So, the car is being stripped down to bare metal, with brand new bumper covers (can't stand the little warps in them), and painted. Pretty much all of that isn't necessary of course, but I probably wouldn't have done it were I to have bought a really nice car to begin with. I'm happy though, because in the end its exactly what I want, built the way I want it built. Definitely better than what Ford rolled off the line visually, structurally, and mechanically
06-22-2006, 11:58 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by Brains
That's EXACTLY what I'm trying to say. Sure I could build an LS1 converted Rolls Royce Silver Cloud for $15 -- just have to find one for cheap/free, with a "forgotten" suitcase full of cash in the trunk
Seriously though, on average its simply not going to happen if you target building a turbocharged LS1 Mustang for under 10k.. stang90gt50 - you're pretty close to 10k already, without adding up all the odds and ends, and without the car on the road. That's where a LOT of "invisible" money is spent, all the things you don't normally account for. It adds up quickly. $50 to summit here, $100 to jegs there, the countless trips to autozone, etc.
I'll say one thing though, stang90gt50 is absolutely correct in recommending a nicer car to start with. It might seem silly to spend more up front, but if you truly want a nice car in the end, you'll spend less by buying a nicer car from the beginning. I bought a reasonably clean LX AOD coupe for $2700, running with a bad tranny. I put $350 into a tranny rebuild and used it as a daily driver for a few months before starting on the conversion. Now that I'm almost ready to wrap everything up, my perfectionist self has spent a LOT more money in "restoration" than I would have spent were I to have found a cleaner car to begin with. The whole interior is either new, or custom -- and I started out wanting to simply change from blue to some other color! The paint on the car isn't bad, but its not perfect. So, the car is being stripped down to bare metal, with brand new bumper covers (can't stand the little warps in them), and painted. Pretty much all of that isn't necessary of course, but I probably wouldn't have done it were I to have bought a really nice car to begin with. I'm happy though, because in the end its exactly what I want, built the way I want it built. Definitely better than what Ford rolled off the line visually, structurally, and mechanically
Seriously though, on average its simply not going to happen if you target building a turbocharged LS1 Mustang for under 10k.. stang90gt50 - you're pretty close to 10k already, without adding up all the odds and ends, and without the car on the road. That's where a LOT of "invisible" money is spent, all the things you don't normally account for. It adds up quickly. $50 to summit here, $100 to jegs there, the countless trips to autozone, etc.
I'll say one thing though, stang90gt50 is absolutely correct in recommending a nicer car to start with. It might seem silly to spend more up front, but if you truly want a nice car in the end, you'll spend less by buying a nicer car from the beginning. I bought a reasonably clean LX AOD coupe for $2700, running with a bad tranny. I put $350 into a tranny rebuild and used it as a daily driver for a few months before starting on the conversion. Now that I'm almost ready to wrap everything up, my perfectionist self has spent a LOT more money in "restoration" than I would have spent were I to have found a cleaner car to begin with. The whole interior is either new, or custom -- and I started out wanting to simply change from blue to some other color! The paint on the car isn't bad, but its not perfect. So, the car is being stripped down to bare metal, with brand new bumper covers (can't stand the little warps in them), and painted. Pretty much all of that isn't necessary of course, but I probably wouldn't have done it were I to have bought a really nice car to begin with. I'm happy though, because in the end its exactly what I want, built the way I want it built. Definitely better than what Ford rolled off the line visually, structurally, and mechanically
06-22-2006, 12:55 PM
#26
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Sorry man, I'm way too busy right now to sit down and accurately work through a tune for a car I've never laid eyes on 
Try some folks in the PCM tuning forum, I'm sure they can help.
Try some folks in the PCM tuning forum, I'm sure they can help.
06-22-2006, 08:36 PM
#27
Originally Posted by Blown04Z06
stang90gt50 very nicely done! shut the dude the fruck up!
wow, i really hope you weren't referring to me.
if somthing sounds too good to be true, do you ask questions or do you just believe everything you hear/read??? that's where i was heading with my questions and stang90gt50 answered my question very thoroughly and seemingly honestly. i'm still surprised at the total investment, but i was by no means calling him a liar, or i would have flat out said it which is why i asked before calling "b.s.", which is what i believe i did. i'll go back and look again. anyhow, that's exactly what i was looking for and it's much appreciated! thanks stang90gt50.
06-23-2006, 02:15 AM
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Well it seems to me raced out mustangs dont go for good money resale....alot of your carbed 306"/tremec trannied 6pt roll bar cars only pull 4-6k whereas a bone stock clean nice fox body also pulls 4-6k...
I recommend buying a nice raced out car and parting it out..youll do better in the end.
I recommend buying a nice raced out car and parting it out..youll do better in the end.
