A little update on my conversion. I recently got my motor running and got the car back on the floor again. I was going to pull it out into the driveway to give it a bath, unforunatly, the clutch does not seem to be disengaging completly.

I started the car, and could not get it into gear, either the shifter wouldnt go into 1st, or it would grind trying reverse. So I shut it down, put it in reverse and then started it. The car started just fine, but then started to roll back with the clutch pedal fully down, so I hit the brakes to slow it down and as the car stopped the motor bogged down and died. So the clutch is not 100% engaged with the clutch down, but its not letting go completely either. This is a brand new Centerforce Stage 2, with a brand new GM Clutch Master with the Drill Mod. Its been bleed, rebleed, and bleed again.

Do I now have to pull the tranny and replace the clutch slave? Any other ideas what this problem could be?

I appriciate any help, I'd like to see this thing roll on its own for the first time in over a year.

-Steven

 

I would probably start at the basics........assuming the hydraulics are ok and travel is correct......is the disc installed facing the correct way? Does the pilot bearing (or bushing) fit ok, not binding the input shaft? Even us guys who should know everything because we've been doing this for 30 years occasionally screw up on the basics.

 

what clutch pedals are you using?

read this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=clutch+pedal

i went thru the same thing.

 

i just updated taht thread with the pics re-hosted so you can see what i was talking about...

 

Wow, how did I not hear about this before....

Damn, now I got to go find 4th gen pedals

 

Stupid question, is there any way to modify the thirdgen pedal to work?

 

well, ive been thinking about that myself.

if you took a drill bit, and drilled the BACK of the pin out, thru the arm, you would end up with the pin falling off.
you could then drill a new hole below that, and place the pivoit pin in there. then weld it from the back, and weld up the old hole.

its all steel, so that should work just fine.



another option, if you dont have a welder, would be to cut off the old pin, drill a hole below it, and use a bolt and locknut.

 

That would actually be better for me anyways since I didnt have the retainer clip and had it ziptied to the pedal arm....

god im ghetto

You dont happen to know just how far down I need to drill do you?

 

I modifyed a set of thirdgen pedals and they work perfectly. What I did was grind off the old pin, weld a piece of 1/4 plate steel to the existing mounting tab for the pin. The existing tab was very close to 1/4 so I basically spaced the pin out another 1/4" to get the angle correct. Next I drilled a hole at a lower location allowing a little more pedal travel. I bought a 3/8" grade 8 bolt nuts and flat washers and a pack of nylon bushings from the hardware drawer at lowes. The bushing was about .0015 too big so I sanded it down until it was a press fit in the slave rod. I did not re use the factory plastic bushing. I also had to gring out a very small section of metal that mounts the brake switches because spacing out the rod caused it to hit. I assembled everything with a light coat of WL grease and nutted both sides of the plate steel allowing the head of the bolt to act as a stud. The clutch feels perfect and does fully disengauge. If you need a picture I can crawl under the dash and take one.

 

exactly where? no.. its a guesstimate.
you COULD measure the distance the master cyl goes in on a 4thgen.. then measure it out so yours goes in the same amount..
ive since read online that the slave cyl would take over 5 times the displacement of the stock master cyl, so blowing that out isnt the issue... the issue becomes moving the pressure plate to far.. and i think you have to go waay overkill to really damage MOST setups... ive read that the texarilla is really picky, but most arnt.

ive actually been considering moving mine slightly down somemore, so that the required pedal travel for disengagement is less.. and then i'll add a pedal stop so i cant overthrow the pressureplate too far.. but i havent tried it yet.

 

Which master cylinder is it?

If you have a 1998-2000, it will stick with an aftermarket clutch. Had the same problem on my 1999. Use a 2001+ master cylinder if you haven't already.

 

I don't have a 4th gen to compair travel with, so I dont know how far in its supposed to go. I guess I can always guess, and if its wrong, since its a nut and bolt I can just slot the hole to gain more.

Good idea about the plastic bushings, thanks!

 

you can eyeball it off the pics i have online here:
http://www.fastgm.com/travis/Clutch%20Pedal/

 

So the pin is going closer to the firewall or higher towards the pivot point? in picture http://www.fastgm.com/travis/Clutch%...l/IM000401.JPG the 4th gen pedal is the one on top, correct?

 

in that pic, the top one is the LS1 pedal.
bottom one is a LT1 style pedal that has an identical distance as the thirdgen pedal.


the distance between the pivot point of the pedal(the big hole with the white bushing), and the pin the MC attaches to should be longer... the longer this distance, the greater the stroke of the MC.... also, the higher your clutch pedal will sit... i probly should mention that too... a fix for that is to make the MC connecting rod shorter.. but you can only do that with an aftermarket MC...
really, its no big deal, but if you're really picky, you'll notice your clutch pedal wont be even with the brake pedal.

 

I have a set of 4th gen pedals if anyone need them give me a shout.

 

I'll let you know after this weekend, I'm going to attempt to drill a new hole and use a bolt, if that fails, I'll let you know

 

well, I ended up expanding the holes for the master cylinder and moved it upwards. By doing this the play in the pedal was gone and the clutch finally fully disengaged on the first try.

I was able to back it out of the garage and wash it for the first time in over a year. I can't wait to get it all back together, thanks for all your help and suggestions guys, you're always the one to get me brain storming enough to fix my problems.