Clutch not disengaging
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 144
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From: Austin, Tx
Clutch not disengaging A little update on my conversion. I recently got my motor running and got the car back on the floor again. I was going to pull it out into the driveway to give it a bath, unforunatly, the clutch does not seem to be disengaging completly.
I started the car, and could not get it into gear, either the shifter wouldnt go into 1st, or it would grind trying reverse. So I shut it down, put it in reverse and then started it. The car started just fine, but then started to roll back with the clutch pedal fully down, so I hit the brakes to slow it down and as the car stopped the motor bogged down and died. So the clutch is not 100% engaged with the clutch down, but its not letting go completely either. This is a brand new Centerforce Stage 2, with a brand new GM Clutch Master with the Drill Mod. Its been bleed, rebleed, and bleed again.
Do I now have to pull the tranny and replace the clutch slave? Any other ideas what this problem could be?
I appriciate any help, I'd like to see this thing roll on its own for the first time in over a year.
-Steven
I started the car, and could not get it into gear, either the shifter wouldnt go into 1st, or it would grind trying reverse. So I shut it down, put it in reverse and then started it. The car started just fine, but then started to roll back with the clutch pedal fully down, so I hit the brakes to slow it down and as the car stopped the motor bogged down and died. So the clutch is not 100% engaged with the clutch down, but its not letting go completely either. This is a brand new Centerforce Stage 2, with a brand new GM Clutch Master with the Drill Mod. Its been bleed, rebleed, and bleed again.
Do I now have to pull the tranny and replace the clutch slave? Any other ideas what this problem could be?
I appriciate any help, I'd like to see this thing roll on its own for the first time in over a year.
-Steven
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 800
Likes: 1
From: Simi VAlley,CA
I would probably start at the basics........assuming the hydraulics are ok and travel is correct......is the disc installed facing the correct way? Does the pilot bearing (or bushing) fit ok, not binding the input shaft? Even us guys who should know everything because we've been doing this for 30 years occasionally screw up on the basics.
what clutch pedals are you using?
read this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=clutch+pedal
i went thru the same thing.
read this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=clutch+pedal
i went thru the same thing.
Originally Posted by StevenK
Stupid question, is there any way to modify the thirdgen pedal to work?
if you took a drill bit, and drilled the BACK of the pin out, thru the arm, you would end up with the pin falling off.
you could then drill a new hole below that, and place the pivoit pin in there. then weld it from the back, and weld up the old hole.
its all steel, so that should work just fine.
another option, if you dont have a welder, would be to cut off the old pin, drill a hole below it, and use a bolt and locknut.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 144
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From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
another option, if you dont have a welder, would be to cut off the old pin, drill a hole below it, and use a bolt and locknut.
god im ghetto
You dont happen to know just how far down I need to drill do you?
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Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: Latrobe PA
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
well, ive been thinking about that myself.
if you took a drill bit, and drilled the BACK of the pin out, thru the arm, you would end up with the pin falling off.
you could then drill a new hole below that, and place the pivoit pin in there. then weld it from the back, and weld up the old hole.
its all steel, so that should work just fine.
another option, if you dont have a welder, would be to cut off the old pin, drill a hole below it, and use a bolt and locknut.
if you took a drill bit, and drilled the BACK of the pin out, thru the arm, you would end up with the pin falling off.
you could then drill a new hole below that, and place the pivoit pin in there. then weld it from the back, and weld up the old hole.
its all steel, so that should work just fine.
another option, if you dont have a welder, would be to cut off the old pin, drill a hole below it, and use a bolt and locknut.
Originally Posted by StevenK
That would actually be better for me anyways since I didnt have the retainer clip and had it ziptied to the pedal arm....
god im ghetto
You dont happen to know just how far down I need to drill do you?
god im ghetto
You dont happen to know just how far down I need to drill do you?
you COULD measure the distance the master cyl goes in on a 4thgen.. then measure it out so yours goes in the same amount..
ive since read online that the slave cyl would take over 5 times the displacement of the stock master cyl, so blowing that out isnt the issue... the issue becomes moving the pressure plate to far.. and i think you have to go waay overkill to really damage MOST setups... ive read that the texarilla is really picky, but most arnt.
ive actually been considering moving mine slightly down somemore, so that the required pedal travel for disengagement is less.. and then i'll add a pedal stop so i cant overthrow the pressureplate too far.. but i havent tried it yet.
Which master cylinder is it?
If you have a 1998-2000, it will stick with an aftermarket clutch. Had the same problem on my 1999. Use a 2001+ master cylinder if you haven't already.
If you have a 1998-2000, it will stick with an aftermarket clutch. Had the same problem on my 1999. Use a 2001+ master cylinder if you haven't already.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 144
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From: Austin, Tx
I don't have a 4th gen to compair travel with, so I dont know how far in its supposed to go. I guess I can always guess, and if its wrong, since its a nut and bolt I can just slot the hole to gain more.
Good idea about the plastic bushings, thanks!
Good idea about the plastic bushings, thanks!
Originally Posted by StevenK
I don't have a 4th gen to compair travel with, so I dont know how far in its supposed to go. I guess I can always guess, and if its wrong, since its a nut and bolt I can just slot the hole to gain more.
Good idea about the plastic bushings, thanks!
Good idea about the plastic bushings, thanks!
http://www.fastgm.com/travis/Clutch%20Pedal/
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Austin, Tx
So the pin is going closer to the firewall or higher towards the pivot point? in picture http://www.fastgm.com/travis/Clutch%...l/IM000401.JPG the 4th gen pedal is the one on top, correct?
Originally Posted by StevenK
So the pin is going closer to the firewall or higher towards the pivot point? in picture http://www.fastgm.com/travis/Clutch%...l/IM000401.JPG the 4th gen pedal is the one on top, correct?
in that pic, the top one is the LS1 pedal.
bottom one is a LT1 style pedal that has an identical distance as the thirdgen pedal.
the distance between the pivot point of the pedal(the big hole with the white bushing), and the pin the MC attaches to should be longer... the longer this distance, the greater the stroke of the MC.... also, the higher your clutch pedal will sit... i probly should mention that too... a fix for that is to make the MC connecting rod shorter.. but you can only do that with an aftermarket MC...
really, its no big deal, but if you're really picky, you'll notice your clutch pedal wont be even with the brake pedal.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 144
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From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by stealth71
I have a set of 4th gen pedals if anyone need them give me a shout.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Austin, Tx
well, I ended up expanding the holes for the master cylinder and moved it upwards. By doing this the play in the pedal was gone and the clutch finally fully disengaged on the first try.
I was able to back it out of the garage and wash it for the first time in over a year. I can't wait to get it all back together, thanks for all your help and suggestions guys, you're always the one to get me brain storming enough to fix my problems.
I was able to back it out of the garage and wash it for the first time in over a year. I can't wait to get it all back together, thanks for all your help and suggestions guys, you're always the one to get me brain storming enough to fix my problems.
