Ls1 E36 Bmw
06-28-2006, 12:42 PM
#23
TECH Regular
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Those prices quoted are ridiculous. Mines not an e36 but between the price of the car and the parts I'll be under $5k. Of course I did everything myself except the driveshaft, axle shafts and stub axles.
I totally understand the prices if you have someone do it for you but then why not just buy a used m3 or 5?
The only reason I did it is because I wanted the performance and didn't have a lot of money. If I had $25k I'd do as I suggested.
I totally understand the prices if you have someone do it for you but then why not just buy a used m3 or 5?
The only reason I did it is because I wanted the performance and didn't have a lot of money. If I had $25k I'd do as I suggested.
06-28-2006, 12:49 PM
#24
Teching In
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by MattP
I made my headers. If I were to make them over, I would make tri-y's I believe they would fit a lot better in the 3 series.
Matt
Matt
06-28-2006, 12:54 PM
#25
Teching In
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You missed my point I think. When we looked at everything out there that had been done we found too many things were a compromised solution that didn't meet our specific goals. There are over 300 hours labor in the design and install of the LS1 upgrade.
I'm sure your conversion works well for you, I was just looking for a bullet proof package that would hold up to enduro races, etc. I think the pictures posted in the original thread speak for themselves.
I'm sure your conversion works well for you, I was just looking for a bullet proof package that would hold up to enduro races, etc. I think the pictures posted in the original thread speak for themselves.
06-28-2006, 01:06 PM
#26
On The Tree
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by redmist
Those prices quoted are ridiculous. Mines not an e36 but between the price of the car and the parts I'll be under $5k. Of course I did everything myself except the driveshaft, axle shafts and stub axles.
I totally understand the prices if you have someone do it for you but then why not just buy a used m3 or 5?
The only reason I did it is because I wanted the performance and didn't have a lot of money. If I had $25k I'd do as I suggested.
I totally understand the prices if you have someone do it for you but then why not just buy a used m3 or 5?
The only reason I did it is because I wanted the performance and didn't have a lot of money. If I had $25k I'd do as I suggested.
06-28-2006, 01:11 PM
#27
TECH Regular
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bullit proof is my goal. Welded roll cage , Porshe 930 Turbo CVs . spicer 1320 u joints, 7000 rpm driveshaft, chromemoly axles and stub axles. 210 case "EVO' diff, mocal rear end cooler, wilwood front brakes masters and pedals, audi TT rear brakes, coilovers etc etc etc
EBAY and the internet are wonderful things for the poor.
Built the engine from parts for $600, the trans was the most expensive thing purchased at $1000 (rebuilt). Car cost me $200.
The wilwood calipers hats, rotor and calipers cost me less than $500 total. Made the brackets for the wilwoods out of scrap 6AL4V titanium, got the rotors new off ebay for $10 each etc etc
EBAY and the internet are wonderful things for the poor.
Built the engine from parts for $600, the trans was the most expensive thing purchased at $1000 (rebuilt). Car cost me $200.
The wilwood calipers hats, rotor and calipers cost me less than $500 total. Made the brackets for the wilwoods out of scrap 6AL4V titanium, got the rotors new off ebay for $10 each etc etc
Last edited by redmist; 06-28-2006 at 01:20 PM.
