s10_ls1

iTrader: (7)

i just got my ls1 in and if this helps anyone any i got the stock f-body pan to work after notching the frame i made 1 inch spacers to go under the motor mounts on the frame and a 1 inch spacer between the tranny and tranny mount and it work and have plunty of room..

gmax111

iTrader: (1)

It was for an 04 gto didnt make it into the car because i picked it up off of the assembly line... but the throttle isnt fly by wire... so i guess i need to use the extended throttle and cruise cables right?

With a ford 9" ill have to cut the drivers side and get new axels right? to center the pumpkin or is that just on some of them?
So whats a better/cheaper route - ford 9" with new axels or 8.5 with disk brakes and a new posi setup?

Thanks for all the help btw...
Greg

'JustDreamin'

That's a tough question. The advantage with the 9" is there is lots of aftermarket support, so parts are less expensive. And, you can swap pumkins (and therefore gear ratios) in fairly short order, which might be a worthwhile advantage for a 2wd truck. The 9" isn't any more bullet-proof than the 12-bolt or Dana 60 (which I think is stonger) regardless of it's reputation out on the street.

What it boils down to is what you want to do, have lying around, and your budget. I'm going to do an 8.5" 10-bolt, because I have one in the '88 suburban I'm about to scrap out, and with full-time 4wd in my Bravada it should be strong enough. I'll be upgrading to C5 brakes all the way around anyway, so no real difference there. And my truck is 4wd, so unless I get really good at swapping the rear pumpkin AND the whole front diff as a unit, the primary advantage of a 9" doesn't do me any good. I'm probably still going to end up putting new gears (they're the wrong ratio and have 219k on them), new axles (because I think I'll need to narrow it to fit my S10), a new Detroit Tru-Trac (factory limited slip is garbage), and C-clip eliminators in the 10-bolt (although I'm not sure about that one, since I'll have the disk brake hardware holding the axles in place), but at least this way I don't have to go find / buy an axle and pumkin and hope they're decent (they're getting kinda scarce in salvage yards these days since Ford hasn't built any in quite a while).

What should you do? Beats me. But the 7.5" 10-bolt in a 2wd truck will go bang once you start hitting it with decent power & traction. Some of the Camaro guys can run 10's with them in manual cars (which are hardest on axles) some guys break them with stock auto cars running 14's. I've personally blown up a set of gears in my '93 Z28, and its a mostly stock LT1 6 speed. I bet it has to do with what day of the week it was when it was built. I think the ones built on Wednesday are the best, but thats just my theory.

'JustDreamin'

firefighter

Dreamin has pretty much hit it dead on. I am going the way of the 8.5" with an M6 I'll build it myself and put all the good stuff in it I'll prolly never run slicks only my BFG kdw's about 11" tread width decent traction but no slick. The 9" is great (but it's a Ford) the 12 bolt is exspensive but you can get a new casting the S60 is the biggest heaviest AND the strongest it's also cheaper than a 9" or a 12 bolt. But I'm gonna be able to build my 8.5" for roughly a grand and building it with top quality parts. Hell I bought a '96 8.5" for $150.

gmax111

iTrader: (1)

ok another question about fuel... Did you guys use the stock s10 sending unit with ls1 aftermarket fuel pump or replace the top of the sending unit with one from the ls1 and the fuel pump from ls1?

In v8powers swap manuel he says he replaces just the top of the sending unit but on this page(http://www.geocities.com/jays_s10/ls1swap.html) i think he says he just replaces the fuel pump from the s10 with an aftermarket ls1 pump...

now what i am thinking if its possible is just to replace the pump from the s10 with an ls1 pump and keep the whole sending unit for the s10 that way there is less to modify on the fuel lines... but then i think i need a pressure regulator... It looks like there is one on the fuel rail but im not sure... its an 04 ls1 but i think only the 98 fuel rails have the regulator on the fuel rail correct?

so... if i cant just replace the fuel pump will a sending unit from a 98 z28 work? or does it not have a fuel pressure regulator on it...?

sorry its so confusing its just everytime i think im almost done i run into another problem and dont want to buy 20 parts to test whats best or what will work or not...

thanks for help...

gmax111

iTrader: (1)

Nm i think i found the answer to my question but still please post what u guys did on the fuel system...

Thanks guys ur real life savers... or ls1 truck savers rather.. lol

1badjimmy

iTrader: (4)

I used a fast 90/90 setup along with the fast fuel rails on my 99 5.3 motor with a seperate fuel pressure regulator. I have it in a 2000 Jimmy and my stock 4.3 fuel pump supplies enough volume and pressure for my engine.

Ls2Sonoma

iTrader: (4)

- check to make sure you stock fuel system can make at least 58psi (4bar) - most trucks 98/99+ should be making that. ive heard only 01+ do, but my 99 made it. also fuel lines should be 3/8" feed and 5/16" return.

- run a corvette return style fuel filter Hastings #GF336

- corvette returnless fuel rail

theres a few custom peices that you need, but in the end its the easiest way to go about it.

if you need more pressure, swapping in a walbro 255 pump is easy. you can gettem on ebay for about $100 with the install kit. #F20000169
Heres one

Davy_Baby9

iTrader: (23)

So is there any way to NOT notch the frame on the truck? I was looking at the oil pan from LS1Performance.com and it is ONLY for the 96-03 trucks.

What is so different with these trucks then the earlier ones. I was always told that the drivetrain was virtually unchanged since 1982. But everytime I go to find anything to fit my s10 (91) its too old.

blazerman

hey i am doing a 5.3 swap in a 87 blazer, working on motor mounts now

Xtremes10

so are there anyone running a 4 link in their dime? if so did you buy a kit (like from comp engineering) or have it built? just wondering, cos i want to go with a real strong suspension eventually, not just caltracs and a battery in the bed

1BadDime

iTrader: (26)

Did somebody say 4-link?? lol! I have installed one in mine, but my truck is not done yet. Here's my thread...take a look https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/530837-project-98-s-10-drag-truck.html

Check out my car domain site to see more buildup pics and info. www.cardomain.com/ride/2278665

kossuth

iTrader: (12)

FYI, any truck from 96 to current has a high pressure fuel system. The 92-95 trucks with the CPI injection uses a high pressure system. The TBI trucks are a low pressure 20 psi or something like that. As for the 4 banger trucks, I don't know for sure, but I suspect they are a high pressure system being they use SFI they are high pressure. Now as for the pump, you got me on that one.

firefighter

Your truck looks good. I think the parellel 4 link is great for going straight but I want to do turns so I'm gonna go with the triangulated set up.

Xtreme402

iTrader: (7)

You could just use a "johnny joint" or pivot joint similar to these http://suicidedoors.com/SuperPivotBarEnd.php and will help you road handling capabilities. The setup that I will be running will be built with these. Another suggestion would be build them or have them built with adjustable ends.

gmax111

iTrader: (1)

so you guys didnt change the fuel system at all? maybe just a new pump like walbro?

and then to get steady pressure i need a pressure regulator right? or will the 2.2 fuel system provide a steady 58-61psi?

I have a 2.2 btw...

wtf is "corvette return style fuel filter Hastings #GF336" - whats it for i understand there is no return on the ls1 fuel rail but i thought if you just made a tee fitting... 2 inlets and 1 outlet (connect the return and fuel pressure outlet to the brass tee inlets and out from there to pressure reg. and then fuel rail...)

sorry for being so **** but your posts are vague...

1badjimmy

iTrader: (4)

the "corvette return style fuel filter Hastings #GF336" has the fuel pressure regulator inside of it. on the inlet side it also has the return fitting. because the 1999 or 2000 and later vettes only had a supply fitting on the fuel rails. and with the "corvette return style fuel filter" you have to make a loop to hook up to you return line on the S-Series and plumb up the supply to the rail. the later model (probably around same time as vettes) F-bodies had the returnless fuel rails also.

1badjimmy

iTrader: (4)

what I did for mine was swap my fuel filter to an AutoZone #FF504 (same one for the earlier model S-Series or the full size trucks up to 99 Silverados) so I could use an adapter fitting (Summitracing.com P/N EAR-991954ERL) in the fuel filter then braided hose up to my fuel rails. for return I used a fitting that clips on the return line (Summitracing.com P/N RUS-640860) That fitting goes from the clip style that GM uses on the fuel rails and also the fuel lines on the S-Series to a -6 AN fitting

Xtremes10

i have a guy who can build one custom to my specs and tune it for me (chassis specialist) and well, my aspirations for the truck is to someday* be sponsored and have it into a quick 16 big engine pro-stocker, but for now, im not sure how well the suspension will hold with the setup i have

Ls2Sonoma

iTrader: (4)

you have to make some modification to the fuel lines at the least. the pumps in the newer trucks are capable of supplying enough fuel for a stock LS1 so theres you dont need to change it.

my apologies for being vague. what would you prefer i do? try to explain it better or a complete list of parts+pictures that i used? my setup was very simple, the only special tool i needed was boiling water and a clamp that holds nylon fuel line.