The Next 240sx S13 With LS1
08-24-2006, 08:41 PM
#22
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More work done today. Transmission went in with the motor this time.
Sitting on its own will work on fabbing the transmission mount tommrow.
Here is where the shifter will sit. If anything ill get a steeda shifter (for a mustang) which will place the shifter back about 2-3 inches making it exactly centered.
Another picture to give you an idea of where the engine is mounted in the bay
And the biggest shinning moment of this whole ordeal (cause i didnt wanna be like mikespeed...
It clears the stock hood even with the altenator on top and everything!
Also got to order more goodies like
Vette fuel filter, all the stuffs to make custom headers, Wilwood clutch master, remote bleeder vavle for clutch im going to try and hunt down the stuff I need for the fuel system this weekend also.
Sitting on its own will work on fabbing the transmission mount tommrow.
Here is where the shifter will sit. If anything ill get a steeda shifter (for a mustang) which will place the shifter back about 2-3 inches making it exactly centered.
Another picture to give you an idea of where the engine is mounted in the bay
And the biggest shinning moment of this whole ordeal (cause i didnt wanna be like mikespeed...
It clears the stock hood even with the altenator on top and everything!
Also got to order more goodies like
Vette fuel filter, all the stuffs to make custom headers, Wilwood clutch master, remote bleeder vavle for clutch im going to try and hunt down the stuff I need for the fuel system this weekend also.
08-24-2006, 10:16 PM
#23
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looks like your shifter landed right where mine is. mine may be a 1/4-1/2 inch more forward. i need my mounts and ill be at the same step as you. one more question. is your mounting brackets welded to the crossmember or will they come out? after looking at mine i am scared to weld it on with no way of removeing it cause it looks like the motor+tranny will not come out together after its welded in. looks like the bellhouseing or starter would hit pulling both at the same time after its welded in. was going to make mine a 2 peice to make sure. cause its got to come back out after the mounts are fabbed up.
08-24-2006, 10:21 PM
#24
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The mounts are block aluminum they have a stud that I threaded in on the underside. this setup works amazing well since i can leave them in and use the SBC mounts to move the engine in and out of. and if I need even more clearace i can take out the aluminum blocks. to get it in there with the tranny i took of the starter (all of 2 bolts) and will put that back in once it goes in permentanly. You are correct to think there is not much room between the starter and the crossmember that is why I did it in two pieces.
08-24-2006, 11:14 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by Chin180sx
Wilwood clutch master, remote bleeder vavle
i just installed the wilwood in my car today. had to make an adapter plate and take a hammer to the fenderwell just in front of it to clear the fitting on the end. doesn't fit bad though and the line i got from hinson is a nice piece.
where did you find the remote bleeder setup? i'd love to get that before i put the motor/trans in the car.
the car looks great man, can't wait to see it run
08-25-2006, 12:37 AM
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almost anywhere has places that can make you a drive shaft. but i reccommend www.driveshaftshop.com
measure back of output shaft to the front of the flange on the diff, tell them you are putting als1/t56 out of a 02 camaro ss into a 199x nissan 240sx s1x chassis, with a r200 rear diff, and give them the measurement from the back of the tailshaft to the front of the flange on the r200, they will take care of the rest.
i also reccommend a steel driveshaft. aluminum is cool and all, but will flex.
measure back of output shaft to the front of the flange on the diff, tell them you are putting als1/t56 out of a 02 camaro ss into a 199x nissan 240sx s1x chassis, with a r200 rear diff, and give them the measurement from the back of the tailshaft to the front of the flange on the r200, they will take care of the rest.
i also reccommend a steel driveshaft. aluminum is cool and all, but will flex.
08-25-2006, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by icantdrift
i just installed the wilwood in my car today. had to make an adapter plate and take a hammer to the fenderwell just in front of it to clear the fitting on the end. doesn't fit bad though and the line i got from hinson is a nice piece.
where did you find the remote bleeder setup? i'd love to get that before i put the motor/trans in the car.
the car looks great man, can't wait to see it run
where did you find the remote bleeder setup? i'd love to get that before i put the motor/trans in the car.
the car looks great man, can't wait to see it run
Summit Racing sells the part. HRE-8289. Its 40 dollars but totally worth it.
Yes they are tein super drifts, got them almost a year ago very good coilovers. didnt take to long to take everything out im probably going to rewrap my whole harness to make it look new again.
08-25-2006, 11:23 AM
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Great looking swap. My hood closes like yours. Sorry to say but it won;t close al the way. Your throttle body isnt on. Put it on and you'll see it just touch the hood enough to where it will put small dent into it. As for the driveshaft steel is cheaper, but a aluminum will be lighter and wont flex. Its not long enough to flex. I believe my measurements were 47 1/2? from the output shaft to the diff flange. It 3"s in diameter and wont flex especially on a car that weights less than 2800lbs. Your crossmember looks just like mine except I had an extra brace that was lowered in the front where you notched it. Good luck! -Alex
08-25-2006, 02:39 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by Chin180sx
Summit Racing sells the part. HRE-8289. Its 40 dollars but totally worth it.
Yes they are tein super drifts, got them almost a year ago very good coilovers. didnt take to long to take everything out im probably going to rewrap my whole harness to make it look new again.
Yes they are tein super drifts, got them almost a year ago very good coilovers. didnt take to long to take everything out im probably going to rewrap my whole harness to make it look new again.
thanks man, that will make life much much easier
.i need to come out that way for an event some time... it would be kind of cool seeing two LS1 S13's running tandem.
08-25-2006, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by icantdrift
chin,
how well does the front of your pan clear the swaybar? i notched my subframe similar to yours but further back by about 1/2" and when i set the pan in there with the bellhousing bolted to it it pretty much wedges the sump between the swaybar and the notch in the subframe. maybe i'm just trying to get the motor to sit too low but i can't notch the subframe any more than it is.
how well does the front of your pan clear the swaybar? i notched my subframe similar to yours but further back by about 1/2" and when i set the pan in there with the bellhousing bolted to it it pretty much wedges the sump between the swaybar and the notch in the subframe. maybe i'm just trying to get the motor to sit too low but i can't notch the subframe any more than it is.
I'll see if I can post some pics up in the next few days here since I got all the mounts done, now to just work on everything else!
Last edited by Ted J; 08-25-2006 at 06:55 PM.
08-25-2006, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by DOHCsky
any pics of the tranny mount? ive been following a couple threads and no pics of one to-date. where are you having the drive shaft made?
Since the tranny was so much further back I didn't want to use the stock mount locations. If I had to do it over again I would have used the stock tranny mount locations for the front of the mount and then fabbed up something further back on the unibody to not have the mount be a cantilever if that makes sense.
08-25-2006, 10:54 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by DOHCsky
any pics of the tranny mount? ive been following a couple threads and no pics of one to-date. where are you having the drive shaft made?
Hope that helps!
PS - If you look in the Pinks LS1 S13 thread you'll see how they did their tranny mount as well.
08-30-2006, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Chin180sx
Has anyone tried to hook up the tach wire directly to the 240's? since they both put out 4cly outputs they might work?
